I fixed the issue with my Kanger Protank3. The center post must have unscrewed a cunt hair when I pulled the lid off to refill it. The gurgling is gone, the vapor vastly increased and my nicotine uptake is startling. I may stick with the 18MG I bought the other day. I can't fathom 24 with such huge, flavorful hits.

 

My eVic will be here either Friday or Monday. I am fucking stoked.

 

 

 

Neal I use Torque, has been invaluable.

Which app?

 

Torque Pro

There is a free one and one that you pay for, which do you like better?

 

Paid is a bit better. It is cheap, so it may be worth it to you.

 

Alright I will go with that one then, thank for the guidance guys.

I came home after work expecting to get a shower, turned the handle and nothing. Damn if someone did not strip the handle. I figured an easy fix, but no! I currently have a three handle shower facuet and it does leak a little in the mixing valve. Spent the day looking for parts and was told that my faucet style was going away and the single handle was taking over the industry.

 

While looking at these faucets I was suprised how cheap they are made today. Guess the wife gets her way and I will update the faucet.

Bummer, Neal.

Bummer, Neal.

 

One thing I don't really like to do is plumbing, but she will get her new faucet and it will not be junk build quality!

I hate hate hate hate plumbing.

Once I spent 4 hours trying to get a joint to a be water tight. 3 different pairs of fittings in different combinations, 2 pair were new. I ended up putting a half inch of JB on it and some electrical tape and it still pissed a little bit.

Just a drip so slow it could remind me of my failure.

Sweating pipe is simple.  If you can't get it to work, it's not clean.  Simple as that.

Neal I use Torque, has been invaluable.

Which app?

Torque Pro

There is a free one and one that you pay for, which do you like better?

Same but some features are only available when you pay. I went free first and "needed" the pay but don't remember why. Only one way to find out.

Sweating pipe is simple. If you can't get it to work, it's not clean. Simple as that.

Or it was cursed. Some of them were new. I scrubbed them and scuffed them properly, used flux....

Ended up paying a pro a few bucks after a second attempt with a friend who is much more handy than I. He didn't get it done either.

So I find myself checking out every black Escalade now trying to catch a glimpse of the Jolly Green giant.

Consider straight pipes for a moment. Car has 2" exhaust. At some point the diameter restricts flow. 2 ways to make it flow better. Add another 2" exhaust in parallel or make the 2" a 3".

Let's remove the exhaust system and use it as a water filter. Attach to the bottom of the tank and open the water. Everything including all rocks and debris less than 2" will flow down the tube, everything bigger won't. Once that tube is stuck, you need another. Some marketing genius now invents a goo. This goo will turn a 3" pipe into something that can catch 2" stuff. If this water poured into something that could seriously alter your health if something larger than 2" went through it which filter would you choose? How about if that goo happened to be cancerous?

I realize you can run out of flow on a stock filter. I'd rather run a larger physical size paper than an oiled filter anyday. First mod I did to the M5 was remove the K&N.

As for flow in general more flow capability is only needed when the engine has capability to pump more air than it can breath in. Obviously any resistance will rob horsepower as you just made your air pump less efficient. However, thinking that this robbed horsepower is improving your gas mileage is insane. NO MANUFACTURER would ever release a vehicle where when the drivetrain is stock that a simple, free to design in fix would improve fuel economy.

Every time I clean and re-oil all my K&N filters I use a MAF cleaner on the MAF, plenum and tube if needed. Never had a issue. Not saying that it won't clog over time, but my experience has been great. On the V I decided on the oil filter from Airaid vs the dry they offer.

So I find myself checking out every black Escalade now trying to catch a glimpse of the Jolly Green giant.

I drive past the Jolly Green Giant regularly. Right on 394

The only time I'd run one is if I had a car where the stock ones were expensive.

I will disagree with several points in that argument, but I have no energy to battle tonight.

Hector, huh? 

Edited December 19, 201311 yr by Adrian_D

Consider straight pipes for a moment. Car has 2" exhaust. At some point the diameter restricts flow. 2 ways to make it flow better. Add another 2" exhaust in parallel or make the 2" a 3".

Let's remove the exhaust system and use it as a water filter. Attach to the bottom of the tank and open the water. Everything including all rocks and debris less than 2" will flow down the tube, everything bigger won't. Once that tube is stuck, you need another. Some marketing genius now invents a goo. This goo will turn a 3" pipe into something that can catch 2" stuff. If this water poured into something that could seriously alter your health if something larger than 2" went through it which filter would you choose? How about if that goo happened to be cancerous?

I realize you can run out of flow on a stock filter. I'd rather run a larger physical size paper than an oiled filter anyday. First mod I did to the M5 was remove the K&N.

As for flow in general more flow capability is only needed when the engine has capability to pump more air than it can breath in. Obviously any resistance will rob horsepower as you just made your air pump less efficient. However, thinking that this robbed horsepower is improving your gas mileage is insane. NO MANUFACTURER would ever release a vehicle where when the drivetrain is stock that a simple, free to design in fix would improve fuel economy.

 

IMO, best way of knowing if filtering size is good is to measure vacuum right after the filter. And replace with a larger paper filter  

Spam everywhere

Well you guys convinced me. Back to a stock filter it is when the truck goes to the shop.

J

Sweating pipe is simple.  If you can't get it to work, it's not clean.  Simple as that.

 

No problem sweating pipes, just how things change quickly. Valves, seats, etc.

 

 

 

Neal I use Torque, has been invaluable.

Which app?

 

Torque Pro

 

There is a free one and one that you pay for, which do you like better?

 

Same but some features are only available when you pay. I went free first and "needed" the pay but don't remember why. Only one way to find out.

 

I figured just buy it and I will have less than $25 in everything. Thanks again.

Well you guys convinced me. Back to a stock filter it is when the truck goes to the shop.

J

I recently changed back to a paper filter from oil. Well mine is a Volant Pro filter and is supposed to be good for 100000 miles. We will see. My biggest reason was I would forget to maintain the oiled filter and when I took off my filter I had a film on the inside of my air tube. I wanted something damn near maintenance free.

PS I also got a pretty filter for mine. Helps stop bugs and othe large things from getting stuck in your filter.

Ok you ford people.  One of my buddies has a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0L and a fuel injector is bad, he had a bad one 2 months ago that he paid a shop to replace and now since another one is out we are just going to replace all 6 of 'em.  Is this a PITA job to do or pretty gravy?  I know in my 5.0L you have to pull the intake, but on my Cadillac it was easy as heck to get the fuel injectors/rail out.  Shop wants 1200$ to do this, sounds way to high to me.  

 

 

Intake will have to come off, but it is easy.

 

 

Sounds good.  Thanks!

Wait, one is supposed to give a crap about the air filter?  I just use the stock one, oh maybe take a glance at it once a year and say Yep, still clean.