Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. 

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

 

 

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. 

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him.  He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on.  He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune.

 

Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done.  If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later.  You're always going to want to play it safe anyways.  There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

 

 

 

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. 

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him.  He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on.  He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune.

 

Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done.  If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later.  You're always going to want to play it safe anyways.  There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

hmm I'll contact SCT and see what they say.

Hopefully a fresh nav disk solves the nav woes. Got the cannot read disk error. Cleaned the disk and backing up to fresh media to give it a shot.

GL

electronic problems are the worst

DVD Read error. Either the disk or dvd player. Google shows it to be the player which I probably could have looked at first. Instead I ripped a backup of the original as I thought potentially scratches were the cause. Fresh disk didn't help. I believe it to be an optical problem. Going to see how quality the dealership that I bought the car from is now.

 

Hopefully a fresh nav disk solves the nav woes. Got the cannot read disk error. Cleaned the disk and backing up to fresh media to give it a shot.

GL

electronic problems are the worst

 

DVD Read error. Either the disk or dvd player. Google shows it to be the player which I probably could have looked at first. Instead I ripped a backup of the original as I thought potentially scratches were the cause. Fresh disk didn't help. I believe it to be an optical problem. Going to see how quality the dealership that I bought the car from is now.

When I worked in a shop we'd have dealerships that would have these issues and just get sent to us to be replaced instead of an OEM replacement, sometimes it can workout in your favor.

Sean, did those diagrams work for you?

Gave me what I need where I need to test for sure.

No reference to bus volume, but there are separate leads for each speaker from the headunit so perhaps I may be lucky. Only one way to truly find out though.

I only spent about 2 minutes looking at them though as I had Aidan home with me all day. Tried to bring him to school, but his 3 home room teachers were all out with the flu and while I mulled over what to do 4 kids called in saying they weren't coming. Figured I'd get our hopefully staying healthy asses out of there. Between that and being end of the year and hosting eve & day my life is jacked atm.

Doesn't help the Nav disk took a shit on it today either.

I really appreciate the schematics and will surely put them to good use!

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

$500 off a procharger for the next 2 days btw.

Hopefully a fresh nav disk solves the nav woes. Got the cannot read disk error. Cleaned the disk and backing up to fresh media to give it a shot.

GL

electronic problems are the worst

DVD Read error. Either the disk or dvd player. Google shows it to be the player which I probably could have looked at first. Instead I ripped a backup of the original as I thought potentially scratches were the cause. Fresh disk didn't help. I believe it to be an optical problem. Going to see how quality the dealership that I bought the car from is now.

When I worked in a shop we'd have dealerships that would have these issues and just get sent to us to be replaced instead of an OEM replacement, sometimes it can workout in your favor.

I'd actually prefer the cash that would be their cost. No labor for them, cash for me. Then I'd replace it. Probably the most fair solution too.

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level.

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him.  He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on.  He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune.

 

Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done.  If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later.  You're always going to want to play it safe anyways.  There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

Whomever the dealer is should have the tune for you. I called Procharger direct about a week or so ago. Described the kit, told me the MSRP for the S1 & D1 and gave me the local dealers number. He was quick to point out when offering me the price that the local dealer would beat MSRP and made it sound significant.

Escalade so far gets better mileage than the ML.

Fixing up the interior & suspension will help it more than the motor. Boost goes without saying.

 

 

 

 

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

 

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level.

 

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

 

Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him.  He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on.  He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune.

 

Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done.  If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later.  You're always going to want to play it safe anyways.  There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

 

Whomever the dealer is should have the tune for you. I called Procharger direct about a week or so ago. Described the kit, told me the MSRP for the S1 & D1 and gave me the local dealers number. He was quick to point out when offering me the price that the local dealer would beat MSRP and made it sound significant.

Too bad I'm not still in MO, I lived about 45 minutes away from their HQ.

Too bad I'm not still in MO, I lived about 45 minutes away from their HQ.

Guy I spoke to there grew up a 10 minute walk from my house.

 

 

 

 

Still looking at a procharger for my car, With the procharger it'll get me to about 450 at 8 pounds of boost. I have heard the likely detonation point without forged internals or methanol injection is about 475. Or I could finish restoring the inside of my car ~1k and put the rest of the 4k down on something that has the potential to be much faster for less.. hmm. Or pick up an SUV and get back into car audio.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.

You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order.  Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich.  Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. 

what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.

Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him.  He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on.  He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune.

 

Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done.  If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later.  You're always going to want to play it safe anyways.  There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

hmm I'll contact SCT and see what they say.

 

 

There are plenty of places to buy from and most will deal with tuning as well.  There are a LOT of great tuners in the Mustang world;  guys who have literally done thousands of tunes and helped many manufacturers build their kits even.  Likely, whomever you buy from will be able to hook you up.   I like ATI, but be warned, they are NOISY and there is no turning that noise off.

Perhaps I should read ahead next time.

Curious what you think the quiet solution is.

Also wondering if you mean at idle or while driving.

None of them are quiet per se, but the Vortech SQ is the quietest.  The ProChargers seem to be the loudest though.

Idling or driving.

Holy pissing match

http://www.procharger.com/consumer_alert.shtml

None of them are quiet per se, but the Vortech SQ is the quietest.  The ProChargers seem to be the loudest though.

I NEVER remember being bothered by the powerdyne and it had straight cut gears like the old Vortechs.

Not that it wasn't loud.

None of them are quiet per se, but the Vortech SQ is the quietest.  The ProChargers seem to be the loudest though.

I didn't mean to limit this to the centrifugal either. All PD's I've been around have been on old iron.

They've never bothered me either, but I don't think I'd want one on a daily driver.  I actually like the whine.  Most people don't realize how loud it can be though.

Holy pissing match

http://www.procharger.com/consumer_alert.shtml

I think that's why Vortech bought Paxton.  They needed and intercooled kit and it was cheaper to buy than build.  Their aftercooler is nice, but they are and afterthought, and not many like them.  Not to mention they are an extra $2K.