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Curious as to why you need one? I've never seen a seat bar fail

At 80+ when switching lanes or harder cornering the ass end sways a bit. Seems as if a rear sway bar would improve the handeling.

J

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It cannot affect warranty unless is literally causes failure of other parts. That is almost impossible to prove.

Even power adders on engines are unlikely to instantly void warranty. Not that you would win a claim if you put some snails and dialed the power to 11....

  

Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways.

J

 

Not at all.

Good to know guys. What about straight pipes and headers?

I know a lift can as it changes the angle of the drivetrain.

J

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM...

 

I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year.

 

I also stumbled across a 4L80e I think it only had 50-60k it was only $275.00 was going to send the link when I sent the other but i could not pull the listing back up..Also these are in north TN around the Nashville area so I am sure freight would be a good chunk added to that.

 

I need it BUILT either way.  Core price is reasonable at $275, but the rebuild is $5k and then the conversion is another $1-2 +  a torque converter.  

 

Curious as to why you need one? I've never seen a seat bar fail

At 80+ when switching lanes or harder cornering the ass end sways a bit. Seems as if a rear sway bar would improve the handeling.

J

 

It already has one, no?  Stiffening it alone won't be enough, you'll need to do the fronts and then you might as well add better springs.  Lowering is the biggest thing you can do to help.

 

It cannot affect warranty unless is literally causes failure of other parts. That is almost impossible to prove.

Even power adders on engines are unlikely to instantly void warranty. Not that you would win a claim if you put some snails and dialed the power to 11....

  

 

 

 

Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways.

J

 

Not at all.

Good to know guys. What about straight pipes and headers?

I know a lift can as it changes the angle of the drivetrain.

J

 

An aftermarket sway bar could potentially remove the warranty on the sway bar bushings, that's it.

 

Pipes & headers REQUIRE a tune which "can" void your drivetrain warranty, but you can always swap back when you have a problem and will normally be covered.  Of course they can pull the rips to the PCM in which case they could void it, but it is pretty unlikely it would go that far.

Dissected the instrument cluster replaced the face with a transparent blue face still have not finished the wiring except for face before I re-assembled it.

 

 

">http://20150701_203049_zpsz7qvadlc.jpg

 

the glare from the flash makes the lens looks like it has blemishes,but the lest is almost perfect except a few minor scratches that is hard to see unless you are really looking.

 

 

">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/mikel7829/media/20150701_202941_zpsz4ozwji1.jpg.html'>20150701_202941_zpsz4ozwji1.jpg

Does have some smears on the lens where i cleaned it,will remove the lens real quick what would be the best thing to clean it with?

TRD tune and headers would not void it.

 

I don't see the value in doing either though on your truck.

In another few years it will be turbo'd. I won't out the turbo on until the warranty is almost up, as it cuts it short.

There is no sway bar up front or in the rear stock, so anyhing would help.

While lowering will help, I like the ride hight it has at the moment.

J

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM...

 

I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year.

 

I also stumbled across a 4L80e I think it only had 50-60k it was only $275.00 was going to send the link when I sent the other but i could not pull the listing back up..Also these are in north TN around the Nashville area so I am sure freight would be a good chunk added to that.

 

I need it BUILT either way.  Core price is reasonable at $275, but the rebuild is $5k and then the conversion is another $1-2 +  a torque converter.  

 

Are these for what you are running....You have a LS right? Is this about the going rate for new heads for the LS?

 

https://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5099834682.html

 

It cannot affect warranty unless is literally causes failure of other parts. That is almost impossible to prove.

Even power adders on engines are unlikely to instantly void warranty. Not that you would win a claim if you put some snails and dialed the power to 11....

  

 

 

 

Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways.

J

 

Not at all.

Good to know guys. What about straight pipes and headers?

I know a lift can as it changes the angle of the drivetrain.

J

 

 

Headers can be iffy. Anything CAT back should not affect warranty.

 

TRD tune and headers would not void it.

 

I don't see the value in doing either though on your truck.

In another few years it will be turbo'd. I won't out the turbo on until the warranty is almost up, as it cuts it short.

There is no sway bar up front or in the rear stock, so anyhing would help.

While lowering will help, I like the ride hight it has at the moment.

J

 

 

Have you thought about a stiffer progressive rate spring? We used to use TRW in street drag GNs

Just snagged some high dollar NOS Telefunken ECC83 Preamp tubes and some Mullard Reissue 12AX7/ECC83s for the Preamp stage of my headphone amp. The Telefunkens are 50s era RCA built tubes that have a stellar reputation. Unlike the 6v6 Mullards that I was unhappy with that have a reputation of being laid back, the 12AX7s have a great reputation as being almost exact copies of the 50s-70s era Mullards that developed the Mullard reputation for exquisite sound.

 

Break in starts next week. 2 day shipping on these puppies...

 

I found some 60s Tung Sol 6V6 STs, which are the old coke bottle versions of my current output stage tubes that I like so much. I really want some classic Coke Bottles for that retro look on my amp... similar to this:

 

Preferred-Series-274B-Glow-Tube-Image.jp

TRD tune and headers would not void it.

I don't see the value in doing either though on your truck.

In another few years it will be turbo'd. I won't out the turbo on until the warranty is almost up, as it cuts it short.

There is no sway bar up front or in the rear stock, so anyhing would help.

While lowering will help, I like the ride hight it has at the moment.

J

turbo and Toyota = $15k

J for $7k you can have a SC now and keep your warranty.

 

A truck that heavy a turbo really won't be as much fun on the street as the SC either.  

 

I'll warn you, my thoughts were to start out like that as well.

 

.....then I added:

Headers $1800

More boost with a bigger pulley $200, but it required injectors then $1000

Custom Tune and tuning software $1200

Transmission took a shit because of it $7k

Wheels/Tires $3k

Suspension $1.5k

Brakes $5k

Stereo/computer etc $1000

 

Which then magically adds to $30k on top of the truck.  It ain't cheap to make a square heavy box fast.

If you see a cheap turbo kit for a truck it is a remote turbo (like the STS) and those are completely pointless and have so many negatives it is absurd.  If you want easy to bolt on boost a centrifugal supercharger will kill any remote mount turbo and be just as easy to install.

Sean, I could custom make any size pulley you need, just need some measurements.

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