On the track it's not uncommon to have OEM brake fluid boil over. You don't hit the brakes till you hit the apron on the curve. Going from 150 to 50 in 2 seconds will eat the piss out of a brake.

Edited May 21, 201411 yr by Quentin Jarrell

So.... We just got the cobalt back and it's braking like shit I guess. Just sitting cause them to rust? Are they shot?

Wife just dropped it off with me on the wY home saying it was shaking so bad she was afraid to drive it.

Fuck you Chevy.

I just changed the brakes on my civic at 65k. The metal thingy magiggy that's let's you know the pads are wore out was rubbing the rotor.

Hopefully I still have a good bit more on my Tundra. Damn thing has almost 56k on it.

J

So.... We just got the cobalt back and it's braking like shit I guess. Just sitting cause them to rust? Are they shot?

Wife just dropped it off with me on the wY home saying it was shaking so bad she was afraid to drive it.

Fuck you Chevy.

Fuckin a man. I would call them and make em fix that shit.

J

 

I just changed the brakes on my civic at 65k. The metal thingy magiggy that's let's you know the pads are wore out was rubbing the rotor.

Hopefully I still have a good bit more on my Tundra. Damn thing has almost 56k on it.

J

 

 

I changed out my 4runner pads at 72k. Just really depends on your driving.

Yep, I've had some over 100k and some less than 20k

Usually you can just slap on some pads and call it a day if you do it before they create problems.  

Well the house is coming along very well, all drywall is up and the second coat of mud was put on today. Maybe another 2 weeks and we will be putting the kitchen in.

Usually you can just slap on some pads and call it a day if you do it before they create problems.  

 

Yup as long as things did not get hot and warp.

 

I would have went with slotted for the reasons highlighted.  Yea drilled looks cool but newer slotted is just as if not more effective.  And they will last longer.  A google search of cracked willwood breaks brings up multiple links.  Most are on high performance cars but why risk using them if Willwood says yea they are "ok" for a daily driver but use slotted for a performance vehicle because they work better.  It's a no brainer.

They are slotted and drilled.

 

The tech said on the trucks it is what he'd recommend for the street.  Never seen a set crack and they deal with all the weight and associated heat better.

 

 

You're not dragging or autocrossing. No issues with the brakes the way you will drive it, as I promise you, you don't drive it that hard, no matter what you might think. They may be noisy, but that is the price you pay for slotted.

 

On the track it's not uncommon to have OEM brake fluid boil over. You don't hit the brakes till you hit the apron on the curve. Going from 150 to 50 in 2 seconds will eat the piss out of a brake.

 

If you are AXing without DOT4 you deserve to boil and lock up. 4 piston aluminum Corvette calipers of the 90s taught everyone that.

 

 

So.... We just got the cobalt back and it's braking like shit I guess. Just sitting cause them to rust? Are they shot?

Wife just dropped it off with me on the wY home saying it was shaking so bad she was afraid to drive it.

Fuck you Chevy.

 

 

Not common. What year and mileage?

Usually you can just slap on some pads and call it a day if you do it before they create problems.  

 

Last pad I took off my truck....  Special Ford style.  

 

Holy fuck... I got sexyness today. #154.

 

 

 

.

 

real vs clone. The real are engraved, on the right. The switch is totally different and magnetic. The top cap floats on the real, so any atomizer is just a screw on and go. The real trigger travels ~1mm. It hits like a fuckin hammer.

 

Usually you can just slap on some pads and call it a day if you do it before they create problems.  

 

Last pad I took off my truck....  Special Ford style.  

 

 

 

Fell off the land.

I would have went with slotted for the reasons highlighted. Yea drilled looks cool but newer slotted is just as if not more effective. And they will last longer. A google search of cracked willwood breaks brings up multiple links. Most are on high performance cars but why risk using them if Willwood says yea they are "ok" for a daily driver but use slotted for a performance vehicle because they work better. It's a no brainer.

They are slotted and drilled.

The tech said on the trucks it is what he'd recommend for the street. Never seen a set crack and they deal with all the weight and associated heat better.

You're not dragging or autocrossing. No issues with the brakes the way you will drive it, as I promise you, you don't drive it that hard, no matter what you might think. They may be noisy, but that is the price you pay for slotted.

On the track it's not uncommon to have OEM brake fluid boil over. You don't hit the brakes till you hit the apron on the curve. Going from 150 to 50 in 2 seconds will eat the piss out of a brake.

If you are AXing without DOT4 you deserve to boil and lock up. 4 piston aluminum Corvette calipers of the 90s taught everyone that.

So.... We just got the cobalt back and it's braking like shit I guess. Just sitting cause them to rust? Are they shot?

Wife just dropped it off with me on the wY home saying it was shaking so bad she was afraid to drive it.

Fuck you Chevy.

Not common. What year and mileage?

2005 or 2006. 90k brakes changed less than 6 months ago.

The dealer let it sit for 2 months and then handed it to my wife. The kid who delivered the car told her that the brakes were feeling as if they sat and rusted.

I'm pretty sure it was surface rust, but when the brakes don't work and you are handing a car back to someone... I think it was really poor service. This dealership has fucked everything up since day one when we brought the car in.

Chevy has little direct blame, other than putting out the cobalt with so many shity parts.

I never claimed to drive hard.  Just not one to do only motor.  I want this pig to turn, stop, and go as well as a 6600lb land yacht can.

I made a video of how bad it shimmied and shook.

I'm going to send it to the GM and ask if he thinks that would be acceptable for his wife.

Sean loves it fast and HARD.

givin it.  get it done ya know

Yep, I've had some over 100k and some less than 20k

The ones on the bird were broken in half when removed.

Glad i got those fuckers replaced when I did.

J

I never claimed to drive hard.  Just not one to do only motor.  I want this pig to turn, stop, and go as well as a 6600lb land yacht can.

Strut bars and all that shit too?

J

Holy fuck... I got sexyness today. #154.

 

 

 

.

 

real vs clone. The real are engraved, on the right. The switch is totally different and magnetic. The top cap floats on the real, so any atomizer is just a screw on and go. The real trigger travels ~1mm. It hits like a fuckin hammer.

 

Seth have you seen the ones Nick has been making ?

 

I never claimed to drive hard.  Just not one to do only motor.  I want this pig to turn, stop, and go as well as a 6600lb land yacht can.

Strut bars and all that shit too?

J

 

Spindles, shackles, springs, sway bars, panhard bar, etc.

 

I never claimed to drive hard.  Just not one to do only motor.  I want this pig to turn, stop, and go as well as a 6600lb land yacht can.

Strut bars and all that shit too?

J

Spindles, shackles, springs, sway bars, panhard bar, etc.

 

Damn. Looks like nice additions.

J

Some helper bags for the rear and the panhard bar aren't in the pic as they came with the brakes, but between the whole setup it ought to change how the truck feels completely. Aufrecht Melcher and Grossaspach edition on ze way.

Straight out of Affalterbach

*poses like EasyE