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1 hour ago, sandt38 said:

I went to one about 3 weeks ago. Prices were absurd. They had my .40 Shield there for $475... I paid $349 just a few months ago, and bought my lady a 9mm for $329 right before Christmas. I bought nothing, and overspent on parking ($5) and entry fees ($11).

Based on how I buy their prices are high, but I am looking for a certain hand gun for the wife. A day out looking at guns with the wife is a win in my book.

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On 2/21/2016 at 6:52 PM, sandt38 said:

Matt, which Stihl saw did you buy?

I am wanting an 18-20 inch saw, 2.5 or better horses and reliability. I also want an anti-vibe body. I want to keep it around $300. I have it narrowed down to the Stihl 251 WoodBoss at $329 and the Husqvarna 40.9cc 18 incher for $299. Both have anti-vibe and easy self oilers. The Stihl has an extra .5HP, but the Husky has a decompression valve for easy start.

I feel like I want another Stihl, but Husqvarna is also a strong choice. I don't want to seem like a Stihl fanboi, and Husky has a killer reputation. Even though the Sthil seems like the best buy, I want to be sure you have no regrets. My Stihl saw is ~40 years old, so I don't have any personal ownership experience with the newer saws. My experiance is using friends'/neighbors' Stihls and my experiences have all been positive. I just want more owners' opinions.

So I got an MS661c.

 

This thing is really for felling really. I wanted the brute force.

 

Here is what I can tell you for sure. Husky has had a little more trouble than Stihl with the electric tuning units. If there is a saw with a .2 after its number it's probably even better.

 

Stihl or Husky would say you can't run bars That long with saws that small. It will probably work if your just limbing but if you want to sink that bar all the way into anything but softer woods you might have a rough time with it.

Chainsaw is on the list too, btw.  I have a POS Poulan Wild Thang.  It won't die though so rationalizing an upgrade is tough.  Especially when I don't use it more than once a year now that my back ain't young.

On 2/21/2016 at 6:52 PM, sandt38 said:

 

1911s are the greatest pistols ever made. Just the bestest.

1 minute ago, ///M5 said:

Chainsaw is on the list too, btw.  I have a POS Poulan Wild Thang.  It won't die though so rationalizing an upgrade is tough.  Especially when I don't use it more than once a year now that my back ain't young.

Stihl bro.

Any other point of failure on the auto-rides?

My Escalade - 2010 with mag and autolevel shocks no longer fill.  Shocks and compressor were new in October.

Fuse is fine.  Called a bitched to Amazon, have a new compressor sitting here with no core needed....but before I go swap it out I thought I should make sure I am not overlooking anything.  Obviously I can't hear it like normal when it starts up.  Some odd algorithm where it bleeds a little air and kicks on everytime you start it.  Think that is potentially how I killed it when I was trouble shooting my stereo/pc.

13 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Chainsaw is on the list too, btw.  I have a POS Poulan Wild Thang.  It won't die though so rationalizing an upgrade is tough.  Especially when I don't use it more than once a year now that my back ain't young.

They are very durable, we have been using 2 of them at the haunt for several years. No chain of course.

13 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Any other point of failure on the auto-rides?

My Escalade - 2010 with mag and autolevel shocks no longer fill.  Shocks and compressor were new in October.

Fuse is fine.  Called a bitched to Amazon, have a new compressor sitting here with no core needed....but before I go swap it out I thought I should make sure I am not overlooking anything.  Obviously I can't hear it like normal when it starts up.  Some odd algorithm where it bleeds a little air and kicks on everytime you start it.  Think that is potentially how I killed it when I was trouble shooting my stereo/pc.

My Town Car compressor kicks on whenever it feels like it.

2 minutes ago, topgun said:

The leveling switch still good?

Considering there is one on each side I would assume so.  Didn't check.  I shortened the links in them about 15000 mi ago to help lower the truck.

Ride difference with no air to air is insane.  Of course at being nearly 2" lower I am now riding in the really progressive part of my spring and at 6" lower than stock it hits the bump stops which i haven't cut out yet either.

Had a heart to heart with my boss about wanting to move up or needing to step back a bit.

9 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Considering there is one on each side I would assume so.  Didn't check.  I shortened the links in them about 15000 mi ago to help lower the truck.

Ride difference with no air to air is insane.  Of course at being nearly 2" lower I am now riding in the really progressive part of my spring and at 6" lower than stock it hits the bump stops which i haven't cut out yet either.

Didn't realize they'd gone to one each side rather than one in the middle like they use to do.  I'd say go ahead and swap the compressor and assuming it fixes the problem double check to make sure there isn't any air leaks back there to kill the new one with extended run time.  

On 2/21/2016 at 7:07 PM, nem said:

I like to do movements based on muscle twitch fibers. It really seems to work well for me, but it is very old school. 

Can you explain more or provide a link?

I've been looking into the speed at which I lift. When I do squats I feel like if I try to move faster I just feel more tired and don't go any faster. If I move methodically it seems smooth and easier.

I'm wondering if it has anything to do with my slow twitch/ fast twitch muscle fiber make up.

It makes sense to me because when I was riding bikes, I would bike at a much lower cadence than my friends but I could stay geared up and move just as fast or faster without tiring.

1 hour ago, MKader17 said:

Can you explain more or provide a link?

I've been looking into the speed at which I lift. When I do squats I feel like if I try to move faster I just feel more tired and don't go any faster. If I move methodically it seems smooth and easier.

I'm wondering if it has anything to do with my slow twitch/ fast twitch muscle fiber make up.

It makes sense to me because when I was riding bikes, I would bike at a much lower cadence than my friends but I could stay geared up and move just as fast or faster without tiring.

This is a very old principle that I learned from the old guys. Many years ago Ben Weider did an instructional poster set you hung up for reference. I gave mine to my nephew because I no longer needed the reference.

 

Here are two links I found that may help you.

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/betteru25.htm

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/ask-the-muscle-prof-how-do-i-target-fast-twitch-muscle-fibers.html

1 hour ago, nem said:

This is a very old principle that I learned from the old guys. Many years ago Ben Weider did an instructional poster set you hung up for reference. I gave mine to my nephew because I no longer needed the reference.

 

Here are two links I found that may help you.

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/betteru25.htm

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/ask-the-muscle-prof-how-do-i-target-fast-twitch-muscle-fibers.html

Found it

http://images1.memedroid.com/images/UPLOADED10/501fef61c71a5.jpeg

Fly out at 5:30 am

I can't wait to get out of here!

Edited by dem beats

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