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Those liners look so fluffy.  I would probably have it in tatters in a week.  I wear a lot of fleece athletic stuff.  Stretchy thermals and such.  Shell blocks wind, the fleece wicks.  They are running pull overs made for hard sweating in cold but not windy conditions.  Ideal for a dripping sweaty gorilla like me.  The moment I get too hot, open the pit vents.  Once I'm not working the body, zip up and keep the wind out.

I wear those bike pro stretchy t shirts.  Under armor and the likes.  I scoot to the outlet, load up for the same price as regular target cotton and I can choose between basically mesh that feels like no shirt, or a tiny thermal layer. With the heat gear.  I fell into that trap by accident, I just wanted shirts that didn't blouse when I was doing bent over rows and deads and I couldn't fit into my rash guards anymore!

Hahaha 

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The down layers for me are for going from the house to the grocery store, etc.  Not anything where I will get my heart rate up beyond sitting level.  Once I do that I am a Merino wool baselayer, polar fleece on top and if necessary (ie super shit cold) a vented shell on top of that.  

12 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

The down layers for me are for going from the house to the grocery store, etc.  Not anything where I will get my heart rate up beyond sitting level.  Once I do that I am a Merino wool baselayer, polar fleece on top and if necessary (ie super shit cold) a vented shell on top of that.  

I went to REI and Midwest and there is nothing made of wool that I can wear that fits acceptably.  Nothing thin enough for me as a base.  It's really uncomfortable actually.

I think some review site recommended them also and I hadn't checked that rabbit hole yet.  

I'll check them out.

I need some actual help with my my old audio projects!

 

I decided I'm going to take 2 hours a day and work on projects only for me, and I figure finishing those 16 cube sub  boxes would be a good plan.  I want to brace this inside and be as efficient as possible without making a lot of curved lines.

 

Anyone able to direct me to some good ideas for bracing giant boxes? I think I'm just going to seal them despite all my previous plans.   I cannot think of a way to vent this thing effectively.  The slot I had planned on was a terrible idea because I didn't think about fluids moving through the horn, just the maths on how it would tune it.  

 

Also think that half decade old tightbond 3 is any good?  

 

:-/

40 minutes ago, dem beats said:

I need some actual help with my my old audio projects!

 

I decided I'm going to take 2 hours a day and work on projects only for me, and I figure finishing those 16 cube sub  boxes would be a good plan.  I want to brace this inside and be as efficient as possible without making a lot of curved lines.

 

Anyone able to direct me to some good ideas for bracing giant boxes? I think I'm just going to seal them despite all my previous plans.   I cannot think of a way to vent this thing effectively.  The slot I had planned on was a terrible idea because I didn't think about fluids moving through the horn, just the maths on how it would tune it.  

 

Also think that half decade old tightbond 3 is any good?  

 

:-/

Double mdf everything and counter sink top baffles for 3/8's all thread then bondo over all nuts and screws where you counter sink for looks...Would not think you would have a flex issue 

43 minutes ago, mikel7829 said:

Double mdf everything and counter sink top baffles for 3/8's all thread then bondo over all nuts and screws where you counter sink for looks...Would not think you would have a flex issue 

Double wall a 16 cube enclosure...

It will take about 12 more 4x8s.

56 minutes ago, dem beats said:

Think a window brace every 10" or so would do it?

Should be plenty... but maybe like this "#".....Instead of the usual window type..

2 hours ago, mikel7829 said:

Double mdf everything and counter sink top baffles for 3/8's all thread then bondo over all nuts and screws where you counter sink for looks...Would not think you would have a flex issue 

Home audio = 10x the bracing of car audio.

The goal is to have the least number of similar spaces.  Everything uneven is perfect.  The expensive way is to cut out holes of sheets.  Also probably the most effective.

Just now, mikel7829 said:

Should be plenty... but maybe like this "#".....Instead of the usual window type..

I have some scrap I might cobble up some kind of hashpatten out of MDF extras.  I just thought of something.  

 

One panel I have for each box is going to be short.  You can't have a seam on one of the sides without doubling that side.... so I'm gonna be getting some more fuxking wood or having one side all fuxking lumpy.  Boy I'm madder than a better right meow 

10 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Yes

Thank god.  That post right before this had me sweating.

What is going in these monsters matt?

Holy effing shit I found the nuclear reactor that I purchased to power that fucking thing.

 

Oh man.  I'm so sad I never saw that old fi-q in the expedition powered by this surfboard.

Old SAZ-1500.  It's gotta be 25 pounds.

I felt someone kick me in the dick today.  I didn't know it was the DJI faaaaaaawk.

Two fold goal: Remove as many primary panel resonances in the frequency range the sub will excite.  Other aspect is to ensure no standing waves inside the enclosure that are in the frequency range the sub excites.

Two ways to achieve that: Have $200k+ of gear and time or overbuild the shit out of it.

Jealous...

 

 

....though not sure why.  All the subs in my house are turned down and really never stressed.  Sealed ML 12" in the small tv room, Ported Kicker L7 in the garage, True Sub in my office.   Basement theater will get something when the theater finally gets built.  Only will have to keep up with some old Definitive bipolar towers I have. 

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