Won't drop the soap near any of you fuckers

You don't need the soap as a catalyst big boy. I know you are already on FIRE.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raql_Hh_NmU

^------ I feel the burn.

Cranky today. Waiting for a package and some loan information. I am annoyed.

Package came. Wife got into grad school. Hooray. Free iPad with her enrollment. Roflmao.

What are you trying to do to me?

Aaron has been tugging on it since that pic was first poasted.

Silly otakon convention this weekend got me seriously stuck in traffic and we could not meet up with Neal.  Was all kinds of pissed.

Aaron has been tugging on it since that pic was first poasted.

At the office foo.

That's what I tell my wife too!

What is otakon?

Pokemon convention essentially.  Was stuck on Pratt street with all these dress up cosplay people walking around downtown.

It was big enough to clog traffic?  ROFL.  Oh hurry, can I move where you live?

Sorry.  That just painted the most ridiculous picture of MD 

got some noob paint questions guys. maybe i should make a tread.. eh

I've been working on a tablet mount for my car and it is almost ready for paint (almost = couple more hours of bondo and sanding). i picked up a SEM color chart to compare to the stock panel color.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yourautotrim-store_2269_149898214

from this I think i've narrowed the matching paint to monterey. however, it seems to be slightly off. Some further searching indicated that there should be an actual GM color match (car is an olds intrigue btw). So I found another SEM color chart.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/sem242a.html

I haven't ordered a sample card of these, perhaps i should, but i think the med dark pewter is closest to the actual color.

Question is, am i going about this the right way? is there a better method?

and if someone could give me a step by step on readying the piece for paint that would be great.

edit: here is what i'm working on. quite a lot of work left before its ready.

Edited August 12, 201312 yr by lithium

Pokemon convention essentially. Was stuck on Pratt street with all these dress up cosplay people walking around downtown.

got some noob paint questions guys. maybe i should make a tread.. eh

I've been working on a tablet mount for my car and it is almost ready for paint (almost = couple more hours of bondo and sanding). i picked up a SEM color chart to compare to the stock panel color.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yourautotrim-store_2269_149898214

from this I think i've narrowed the matching paint to monterey. however, it seems to be slightly off. Some further searching indicated that there should be an actual GM color match (car is an olds intrigue btw). So I found another SEM color chart.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/sem242a.html

I haven't ordered a sample card of these, perhaps i should, but i think the med dark pewter is closest to the actual color.

Question is, am i going about this the right way? is there a better method?

and if someone could give me a step by step on readying the piece for paint that would be great.

edit: here is what i'm working on. quite a lot of work left before its ready.

The med dark pewter is GM's color.

The bondo will seperate from the plastic due to shrinkage and expansion differences. Vette panel filler should have been used but its a bit late for that.

You will want several coats of epoxy primer the whole panel sanding between coats. The SEM dye is extremely thin so you will want the finish as smooth as possible. I,d go to at least 1,000 grit and test a corner.

Or if you don't want it smooth you can use SEM texture finish.

got some noob paint questions guys. maybe i should make a tread.. eh

I've been working on a tablet mount for my car and it is almost ready for paint (almost = couple more hours of bondo and sanding). i picked up a SEM color chart to compare to the stock panel color.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yourautotrim-store_2269_149898214

from this I think i've narrowed the matching paint to monterey. however, it seems to be slightly off. Some further searching indicated that there should be an actual GM color match (car is an olds intrigue btw). So I found another SEM color chart.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintdepot/sem242a.html

I haven't ordered a sample card of these, perhaps i should, but i think the med dark pewter is closest to the actual color.

Question is, am i going about this the right way? is there a better method?

and if someone could give me a step by step on readying the piece for paint that would be great.

edit: here is what i'm working on. quite a lot of work left before its ready.

The med dark pewter is GM's color.

The bondo will seperate from the plastic due to shrinkage and expansion differences. Vette panel filler should have been used but its a bit late for that.

You will want several coats of epoxy primer the whole panel sanding between coats. The SEM dye is extremely thin so you will want the finish as smooth as possible. I,d go to at least 1,000 grit and test a corner.

Or if you don't want it smooth you can use SEM texture finish.

 

thanks, guess i jumped into things a bit too quickly. not a big deal in this case considering the car has 215k miles. next time around i'll know better. 

 

should I use any degreaser products before primer? 

As long as you scuffed up the plastic and didn't mix the mud too hot, you will have no issues with expansion and contraction.  I've been working with "bondo" since I was 8 years old (so that's 26 years of experience) and never had an issue.  I literally grew up in a body shop. 

 

As far as the degreaser is concerned, you want to clean with something that will not leave a film.  If the product is ABS, I suggest a lint free cloth with some laquer thinner.

As long as you scuffed up the plastic and didn't mix the mud too hot, you will have no issues with expansion and contraction.  I've been working with "bondo" since I was 8 years old (so that's 26 years of experience) and never had an issue.  I literally grew up in a body shop. 

 

As far as the degreaser is concerned, you want to clean with something that will not leave a film.  If the product is ABS, I suggest a lint free cloth with some laquer thinner.

wish you were local to me man.

So the Bimmer that was built without the AC duct came in today. She was happy she had air thanks to my Presidential Engineering, but she wanted us to do the work and install the proper part. She refused to take it to the dealer.

 

We ordered the part for the BMW from eGay, since we could not find it anywhere... aaaannnnddddd, it came from a dealer. Irony. So what does a $500 piece of plastic from BMW look like? What does the job look like?

 

All images are clickable links

 

 

Top of the dash out of the car, and the center console. I had to remove the entertainment module in the lower center of the dash as well.

 

 

See that little 90 degree piece of shit plastic? Yeah, that's worth $500. It is sitting in the center console section of the car.

 

 

Yeah, kinda hard to tell where it goes, but here is the duct's home. You will be able to see it better in the next pic.

 

 

Aaaannnddd, the duct is home.

 

 

The final assembly.

 

The customer also had me replace the front brake wear sensor since it was not replaced when the brakes were done (and they were brand new) at the dealership just a couple months ago. Seriously? The dealer did front brakes, reused the old sensor, and let the car leave with a front pad warning indicator on the dash (see the first pic for the warning on the display)? No wonder she didn't want them to touch her car again. I also did several other little maintenance items that needed to be done. She spent a big chunk with me a few weeks ago and today. I have a customer for life... uggghhh, a BMW for life.

Wouldn't be so bad if you had to drive it as well.

As long as you scuffed up the plastic and didn't mix the mud too hot, you will have no issues with expansion and contraction.  I've been working with "bondo" since I was 8 years old (so that's 26 years of experience) and never had an issue.  I literally grew up in a body shop. 

 

As far as the degreaser is concerned, you want to clean with something that will not leave a film.  If the product is ABS, I suggest a lint free cloth with some laquer thinner.

 

my other work (a pillars) have held up pretty well but those were flocked instead of painted. if that matters  

Aaron has been tugging on it since that pic was first poasted.

At the office foo.

Odd public display of affection if you ask me

Had a realtor give me a selling $ estimate on the house today and I am happy.