I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company.

Quite the honor.

Pics in the tutu?

The nightmares wouldn't be worth it

 

I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company.

Quite the honor.

Pics in the tutu?

The nightmares wouldn't be worth it

But that's his fetish.

 

I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company.

Quite the honor.

Pics in the tutu?

The nightmares wouldn't be worth it

Sure they would.

Stefan knows ALL my secrets.  Don't ask how though.

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 19:03, said:

Adrian_D, on 04 Dec 2013 - 14:49, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 13:41, said:

swift, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:56, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:12, said:

swift, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:16, said:

W140, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:11, said:

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

Not that it really matters, but I don't think water contributes either hydrogen or oxygen, just cooling. What's the range of temperatures in a cylinder (generically speaking)?

 

~2400 degrees in a best case scenario, but there are many factors contributing to the temp... Load, cooling system viability, EGR, valve timing, load, mixture, octane rating, and a plethora of other variables. Plenty of heat to separate oxygen from the hydrogen, and yes, it does contribute.

 

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 19:03, said:

Adrian_D, on 04 Dec 2013 - 14:49, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 13:41, said:

swift, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:56, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:12, said:

swift, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:16, said:

W140, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:11, said:

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

Not that it really matters, but I don't think water contributes either hydrogen or oxygen, just cooling. What's the range of temperatures in a cylinder (generically speaking)?

 

~2400 degrees in a best case scenario, but there are many factors contributing to the temp... Load, cooling system viability, EGR, valve timing, load, mixture, octane rating, and a plethora of other variables. Plenty of heat to separate oxygen from the hydrogen, and yes, it does contribute.

Oh, I didn't think it got that hot. I looked up the thermal decomposition of water but I didn't find much info other than some decomposition starting around 2000C.

Has their always been full length movies on Youtube? I watched a few yesterday and was surprised they weren't taken down by mpaa. Better quality than Netflix or Amazon Prime too.

6l80 with a good tune handle 575 awd wheel hp?

Bummed my build list isn't coming until tomorrow although part of me wants to have my own built, just hoping this guy didn't cut the corners that I would.

Do you know if anything has been done to the trans?  I personally would not be worried.  In my experience, GM (cough, cough) makes some good transmissions.

I saw a blacked out Acura mdx? (had no emblems) today and seemed like something you're sorta looking for--except for the power issue.

Youtube comments, jesus.

 

Stream

DIXIE Normous 2 days ago

 

Why not full screen dumb motherfucker

Reply

 · 

2

View all 3 replies

 

2HowieThe

2 days ago

 

+kingti85
shut your white trash mouth

Reply

 · 

kingti85

2 days ago

 

+2HowieThe God people are stupid

6l80 with a good tune handle 575 awd wheel hp?Bummed my build list isn't coming until tomorrow although part of me wants to have my own built, just hoping this guy didn't cut the corners that I would.

The 6l90 in my V is damn near bulletproof, from what I understand it's just a beefed up 6l80. Even still the 6l80 is stout, the centrifical sc is easier on the trans than a twin screw sc also. I would still look at beefing it up and doing a converter.

AWD and street driven. . . . .  Leave the converter alone.  Firm the shifts up with some line pressure and he'll be good.

 

Fuck.

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

Did you buy a rebuildable one? I have a king tank I can rebuild. I make my coils it's pretty neat. My tank only cost 50$ and I got like 5 feet of canthol flatwound coil for 5$

Yes, the Triton tanks are rebuildable. They even offer 5 different coil configuration options if you choose to just replace with factory wound coils. One of the guys on the forum I go to has been building and expressing his thoughts on the coils he is building. Halo suggests a 3.2-3.8 ohm coil for the variable voltage batteries. I opted to go with the 2.8 ohm, and I am glad I did. I have been able to swing the voltage from better than the stock G6 (3 volt) to the point where I can taste all the juices I use burning. It seems to me that my range is pretty strong. I might like to try a 3.2 just to see if I can bring the total wattage down lower and stretch the possibilities from the bottom to the top.

I am not sure if I will start winding my own coils just yet. At this point I am fucking thrilled with the VV Triton.

My coils are typically around 1 ohm lol

Holy shit! They can't last long can they? What are your mods and seriously; how long do they last?

They last pretty long lol I just have a joyetech ecig and the king tank. I use 0.5mm x 0.1mm Kanthal Ribbon flat wire, type A-1.

Do you know if anything has been done to the trans?  I personally would not be worried.  In my experience, GM (cough, cough) makes some good transmissions.

I don't know any details really yet besides the web page. Considering the dealer knows the builder I asked him to stop by and get the paperwork on the truck.

From what I can garner, as long as it is tuned and kept cool the tranny should be ok. I would feel WAY better if it is a Circle D build or the like though.

My only other concern is they stroked the stock block to get to 427 and then added boost. Knowing if LSx means LSwhatever or if LSX is the Iron beefy block make a difference. Not as excited if it is an LS7.

He didn't cut corners on buying a grill, wheels, adding rear seat entertainment and such. GUy that buys a new AMG as well probably was more concerned about reliability than a few thousand bucks too.

Dying to know if cylinder deactivation and VVT are still on the truck. If not, I assume there is an additional engine controller??

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

Damn your late!! Loved the show and watched from beginning season to end.

A even more crazy one to watch is Banshee on showtime! That is a awesome one, all they do is fight, fuck and kill people.

I don't have cable. Just Netflix. And now I really only watch a show after it's over.

HAH, not today

Edited December 5, 201311 yr by Adrian_D

I don't have cable. Just Netflix. And now I really only watch a show after it's over.

search for Banshee, the pilot season is well over. That show was so crazy I sure hope it returns

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

I presume you are watching the first seasons, not catching up on old ones from last. lol

 

You know what you should watch, Californication, it's so so good.

Or House of cards, I don't give a shit about politics and I very much enjoyed it.

 

Yeah just starting Dexter.

House of cards is amazing.

Californication looks awesome.