You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

For my application (diesel) it's just going to be there to cool the intake, so i assume a single or dual stage system shoul be good

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

For my application (diesel) it's just going to be there to cool the intake, so i assume a single or dual stage system shoul be good

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

 

I believe the VVT is only on the 6 liter. Never seen it on the 5.3 or 4.8. Behind the water pump on the front of the timing cover is a simple solenoid driven piston. The piston drives oil across different passages that make the cam gear rotate. It is not continuously variable, it is simply on or off. The phaser, as it is called, is similar to those used in most VVT systems, but it's actuation is very simple and very effective..

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

 

I fucking love that show. Without a doubt my favorite series since HBO's "Rome".

 

 

 

 

 

 

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion . The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

For my application (diesel) it's just going to be there to cool the intake, so i assume a single or dual stage system shoul be good

 

I cannot say how it would affect a diesel. They work on combustion chamber temperature increases to ignite the mixture. I would have to assume that it can't affect it terribly negatively, since modern diesels use EGR systems for combustion chamber cooling.

 

Sorry, but aside from throwing in some glow plugs and glow plug relays, doing some electrical work, and doing timing belts on the TDI Jeeps, I really don't know much about diesels. Most of what I know about them is from other technicians I know, and I do have several friends who are diesel mechanics.

I dont know much about headphones really but I would recommend sennheiser. I picked up a pair of hd 558 for about $130. Only gripe is that the cord came with a 1/4" jack and an adapter that is rather large. I decided to buy another cord for it but you could just hack the 1/4" off and solder a 3.5mm on. They do use an open back design, not sure how big of a deal this is for you. The isolation is fine but they do leak sound. 

 

I think aaron is a Sennhieser fan, he can probably speak more on it. 

 

Correct sir.  Here is a great price on one of the set's I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA02D08N0442 

 

This is the set I want: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JX1181113

 

I thought about grabbing the 598's but I read that the 558s very similar. same driver, etc. 

http://www.headfonia.com/old-and-new-hd555-hd558-hd598/

It's not big, it's just full!

Burn some dust here. Eat my rubber.

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

2010 came with an L9H. Some are boosting with the VVT, no idea on the deactivation. Would prefer if neither existed. I don't pay for my gas so there is only a negative and no positive in having them. Have no idea what that means for the ECU though.

Obviously if a full motor was bought it won't be there. If an LSX was built with the L76 head then it shouldn't be either. Hopefully I will find out today.

I dont remember my 07 having VVT. It was strong and extremely unnoticeable if it did have it. My 13 Ram on the other hand, was a fucking DOG!! It was so lacking in the power department that I got sick of the truck very quickly.

I dont remember my 07 having VVT. It was strong and extremely unnoticeable if it did have it. My 13 Ram on the other hand, was a fucking DOG!! It was so lacking in the power department that I got sick of the truck very quickly.

VVT was 09, cyl deact 2010+

I dont remember my 07 having VVT. It was strong and extremely unnoticeable if it did have it. My 13 Ram on the other hand, was a fucking DOG!! It was so lacking in the power department that I got sick of the truck very quickly.

VVT was 09, cyl deact 2010+

Looks like I need to find my wife a 08, lol

Looks nice. Was hoping they'd do more on the back end too, but has potential.

http://autos.yahoo.com/photos/the-new-2015-ford-mustang-1386218348-slideshow/

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

2010 came with an L9H. Some are boosting with the VVT, no idea on the deactivation. Would prefer if neither existed. I don't pay for my gas so there is only a negative and no positive in having them. Have no idea what that means for the ECU though.

Seth said they used a phaser, so that would need to locked in place or removed and locked, so look for something of that nature.

Since you know who the tuner is, you should be able to call them, provide a VIN, and get all the tuning information.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/1312_2015_ford_mustang_first_look/

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

2010 came with an L9H. Some are boosting with the VVT, no idea on the deactivation. Would prefer if neither existed. I don't pay for my gas so there is only a negative and no positive in having them. Have no idea what that means for the ECU though.

Seth said they used a phaser, so that would need to locked in place or removed and locked, so look for something of that nature.

Since you know who the tuner is, you should be able to call them, provide a VIN, and get all the tuning information.

I am getting the tuning info with the build sheet.

Burn some dust here. Eat my rubber.

 

The Family Truckster FTMFW

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

 

Me too, worked on it slowly for a while now with Erica, just bits of an episode at a time.  I might be in love with "Deb".

 

I can guarantee they are not on there any more.   Both are simple tunes.  Well, the VVT might all be mechanical which would be outside of a tune.  I didn't even know this was part of the LS engines, nor do i see the point or how they would accomplish it on 2 valve heads.

2010 came with an L9H. Some are boosting with the VVT, no idea on the deactivation. Would prefer if neither existed. I don't pay for my gas so there is only a negative and no positive in having them. Have no idea what that means for the ECU though.

Seth said they used a phaser, so that would need to locked in place or removed and locked, so look for something of that nature.

Since you know who the tuner is, you should be able to call them, provide a VIN, and get all the tuning information.

 

FWIW most phasers use a lock pin to prevent phaser slap, or chain damage in the event of failure... and to reduce excessive emissions obviously. Most manufacturers disengage this pin with oil pressure by opening a galley with the solenoid at the same time as the phasing of the cam. Some work backwards of this, though. I think GM locks the cam retarded and disengages the pin and opens the phaser when cam advance is requested. I have seen the 6 liter motor with the cam phasers lose oil pressure, and watching the cam timing PID would indicate the cam being locked retarded naturally.

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

I presume you are watching the first seasons, not catching up on old ones from last. lol

 

You know what you should watch, Californication, it's so so good.

Or House of cards, I don't give a shit about politics and I very much enjoyed it.

 

 

I love House of Cards.  It is filmed here, and a friend of mine, gorgeous MILF, is an extra in a few episodes.

Just started watching Dexter. Awesomeness.

Me too, worked on it slowly for a while now with Erica, just bits of an episode at a time. I might be in love with "Deb".

I don't have their names down yet. I was doing..... 8000 other things, per usual when watching TV. But every character is awesome so far. Only 3-4 episodes in I think.

 

I dont know much about headphones really but I would recommend sennheiser. I picked up a pair of hd 558 for about $130. Only gripe is that the cord came with a 1/4" jack and an adapter that is rather large. I decided to buy another cord for it but you could just hack the 1/4" off and solder a 3.5mm on. They do use an open back design, not sure how big of a deal this is for you. The isolation is fine but they do leak sound. 

 

I think aaron is a Sennhieser fan, he can probably speak more on it. 

 

Correct sir.  Here is a great price on one of the set's I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA02D08N0442 

 

This is the set I want: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1JX1181113

 

I thought about grabbing the 598's but I read that the 558s very similar. same driver, etc. 

http://www.headfonia.com/old-and-new-hd555-hd558-hd598/

Sennhieser has a long model life cycle for their upper units, so if you can get the earlier version of the same model for less money, DO IT.