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  • Obama is for everyone. He is doing stuff to help the middle class more , but if you really think about it its an advantage on the upper class as well because the middle class will spend more, making m

  • jonbearsmt
    jonbearsmt

    wow some little cunt is marking all myshit neg lol

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extra incline/decline bench can't hurt, and now I can do pull downs.

One HUGE reason. They HAVE to be ON AXIS. If you can do that and are willing to say fuck the passenger that would be rather close to what I'd personally do. Revisiting my needs and reflecting on yours may not yield the same conclusion.

I have no problem with not giving a shit about the passenger. Seems like I've got a plan. Thank you everyone for your recommendations and info. I love this forum.

picked up some aurasound full rangers for my friend on recommendation from Aaron and Sean (deyoung) .  At 20 bucks a pop figured they would be worth a try.

Really a great little midrange. Soft on the top, but some eq and taming can make them play nice. Where are you using them?

picked up some aurasound full rangers for my friend on recommendation from Aaron and Sean (deyoung) .  At 20 bucks a pop figured they would be worth a try.

Really a great little midrange. Soft on the top, but some eq and taming can make them play nice. Where are you using them?

 

Just realized I said for my friend.  No clue why it typed that. 

They will be goin in my scion xb.  I will be doing a vertical line array  on the apillars.  Will be 4 per pillar.  I dont know if many of you have seen the doors on the xb's but the speakers are so down low and the seats are build in a way that you sit more like a truck seat instead of a car seat thats low.  I was having a problem with my legs blocking the sound on the drivers side and then whenever I had someone sitting in the passenger seat that side would be blocked.

So I had the idea of raising the sound floor ( think thats the right term).  So aaron and sean suggested these.  I have an 8" sub in each door for the midbass covering 60-250hz, they are in sealed sonotube enclosures in the doors. 

I know I'm asking alot to have these keep up with 4 18's walled. but anything should be better than the muffled sound i had before.

Found the manual for the weight machine; it's a Weider model WEBE15060, circa early to mid nineties.

I absolutely love these old school types of machines because they let you use your existing weight plates.

Fuck. I need to bleach my Fucking eyes.

http://www.eyebleach.com/

 

Input shaft twisted off, destroyed the clutch, both bell housings, flywheel, transmission housing, a few gears in the transmission, burned the thrust bearings right off the crankshaft, and ripped the clutch linkage off.

...

When the shaft broke the slant of the break acted like a cam and forced the input shaft into the transmission and put it into two gears at once, breaking off lots and lots of teeth, destroying the case, and knocking out a few bearings and washers in the process. The mainshaft moved back far enough to also wipe out the auxiliary section. Then the remainder of the input shaft came back out of the transmission and wobbled around in the clutch housing for a while, which is why the middle of the clutch is hollowed out. The debris broke the engine flywheel housing and the transmission bell housing.

The oil all over the place came out of the transmission.

 

So, labor for R&I engine and trans, swap some components, and replace the crankshaft. New 18 speed transmission. New bell housing. New clutch. New flywheel. New clutch linkage. Minor repair to the underside of the cab where the clutch linkage got pulled off. New engine flywheel housing. Machine shop charges--we tried to turn the crankshaft. New crankshaft (ISX CM871). New rods and mains. New gear housing seals. New pan gasket. Engine mounts. Shitload of zip ties. Oil for the engine and trans. Driveline shop to verify straightness. One hell of a tow bill. Adds up to $45,000.

 

HnBi1JK.jpg

Input shaft twisted off, destroyed the clutch, both bell housings, flywheel, transmission housing, a few gears in the transmission, burned the thrust bearings right off the crankshaft, and ripped the clutch linkage off.

...

When the shaft broke the slant of the break acted like a cam and forced the input shaft into the transmission and put it into two gears at once, breaking off lots and lots of teeth, destroying the case, and knocking out a few bearings and washers in the process. The mainshaft moved back far enough to also wipe out the auxiliary section. Then the remainder of the input shaft came back out of the transmission and wobbled around in the clutch housing for a while, which is why the middle of the clutch is hollowed out. The debris broke the engine flywheel housing and the transmission bell housing.

The oil all over the place came out of the transmission.

So, labor for R&I engine and trans, swap some components, and replace the crankshaft. New 18 speed transmission. New bell housing. New clutch. New flywheel. New clutch linkage. Minor repair to the underside of the cab where the clutch linkage got pulled off. New engine flywheel housing. Machine shop charges--we tried to turn the crankshaft. New crankshaft (ISX CM871). New rods and mains. New gear housing seals. New pan gasket. Engine mounts. Shitload of zip ties. Oil for the engine and trans. Driveline shop to verify straightness. One hell of a tow bill. Adds up to $45,000.

HnBi1JK.jpg

One hell of a Honda Civic.

I was just going to reup my Soy Protein Isolate, but I ended up getting the Fish Oil Complex and even a TN.com blender bottle (six bucks, are you shitting me??)

Glad to see they are taking proper care of you. As I have said in the past, any problems let me know.

J

 

 

Input shaft twisted off, destroyed the clutch, both bell housings, flywheel, transmission housing, a few gears in the transmission, burned the thrust bearings right off the crankshaft, and ripped the clutch linkage off.

...

When the shaft broke the slant of the break acted like a cam and forced the input shaft into the transmission and put it into two gears at once, breaking off lots and lots of teeth, destroying the case, and knocking out a few bearings and washers in the process. The mainshaft moved back far enough to also wipe out the auxiliary section. Then the remainder of the input shaft came back out of the transmission and wobbled around in the clutch housing for a while, which is why the middle of the clutch is hollowed out. The debris broke the engine flywheel housing and the transmission bell housing.

The oil all over the place came out of the transmission.

 

So, labor for R&I engine and trans, swap some components, and replace the crankshaft. New 18 speed transmission. New bell housing. New clutch. New flywheel. New clutch linkage. Minor repair to the underside of the cab where the clutch linkage got pulled off. New engine flywheel housing. Machine shop charges--we tried to turn the crankshaft. New crankshaft (ISX CM871). New rods and mains. New gear housing seals. New pan gasket. Engine mounts. Shitload of zip ties. Oil for the engine and trans. Driveline shop to verify straightness. One hell of a tow bill. Adds up to $45,000.

 

HnBi1JK.jpg

 

My GN used to do that. It would snap the input shaft inside the torque converter and rip the pump all to pieces. I still don't understand how a hardened input shaft would twist, but it looked like a screw. I had to go through the trans about 5 times in 2 years, so I decided to reduce the boost and go with a smaller turbo.

I don't know what I am sick from, but my eyeballs hurt when I look around... rolleyes.gif

That reminds me of the half shaft I broke on the Volvo, luckily they could fish out the broken end. Now I know my car isn't a sports car, that and I'm probably an idiot. :(

Edited by ssh

I don't always give them a half shaft, but when I do, I follow up with the other half.

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