I'm changing my T600-2 running 2 P3's to a T1000_4ad.  

Unfortunately I have to bridge them seperately and must use two different gain controls.

I wish it had a master, slave control but there independant and want to know how to

balance the gain between the two subs. I don't want one sub hitting harder than the other.

meter ? math calculation ?

Pretty simple.  Set the gain for one of the bridged pair of channels by ear to where you want it set.  Disconnect subs.  Measure the voltage of that pair of channels with a DMM using a test tone.  Continue playing the test tone and adjust the gain of the 2nd bridged pair of channels until the voltage matches your prior voltage measurement of the first pair that you set by ear.  Volume level doesn't matter, just don't change it between measurements.  Small deviations don't matter, you just don't want gross differences to obtain full performance from both subs.

 

Why are you using a 4-channel for subs?  Nothing intrinsically wrong with it, just not the usual choice.

Pretty simple.  Set the gain for one of the bridged pair of channels by ear to where you want it set.  Disconnect subs.  Measure the voltage of that pair of channels with a DMM using a test tone.  Continue playing the test tone and adjust the gain of the 2nd bridged pair of channels until the voltage matches your prior voltage measurement of the first pair that you set by ear.  Volume level doesn't matter, just don't change it between measurements.  Small deviations don't matter, you just don't want gross differences to obtain full performance from both subs.

 

Why are you using a 4-channel for subs?  Nothing intrinsically wrong with it, just not the usual choice.

I'll only use class A amps even for subs and when the T1000-4ad came out it had enoughpower for my P3's.  Replacing my T600-2 even though it had a birthsheet if 787 I had to drive it hard. It only went into thermal protect 4 times that was too much for me.

 

I personally think class d and bd amps sound awful

Not to burst your bubble but the description of class "ad" on RF's website sounds to me like it's a class D amplifier with a variable switching frequency (frequency decreases when output increases)......still class D though.

 

Also you wouldn't want to use an actual class A amplifier....efficiency is terrible at less than 25%   I presume you were meaning class A/B

That's how I took it also Impious when I was deciding on my T1500cp's.

Not to burst your bubble but the description of class "ad" on RF's website sounds to me like it's a class D amplifier with a variable switching frequency (frequency decreases when output increases)......still class D though.

 

Also you wouldn't want to use an actual class A amplifier....efficiency is terrible at less than 25%   I presume you were meaning class A/B

 

 

The bold/underlined were my thoughts exactly.  Besides that I'm aware of only a handful of amps that have ever even existed for car audio use that were real Class A.  

 

While several years ago there was a measurable and regularly audible difference between Class A/B and Class D.  Class D was new technology at the time and the many kinks that could cause audible problems with the output were not yet addressed.  Today I would imagine that in a blind side by side blind comparison with everything level matched, both amps on the same set of speakers using the same source, all while using a speaker selector switch to make the switch direct and immediate with no time between listening to the results that even then it would be difficult to hear any difference at all.

 

I'm of the opinion that if one the best, most well known, and once most popular amplifier manufacturers that I and many others have known in our car audio careers has gone to full Class D topology on all their amps that it really cannot be the lesser technology.  I'm sure like anything else they've made calculated compromises where it was necessary, but if the Class D topology is good enough for ZED then it's good enough for me.

 

That's just my .02 for the quarter of a cent it's worth.

Yes I mean ab and the new ad amps are suppose to solve sound quality issues as with a straight d or bd amp. I have a recording studio and over the years I've became very picky when it comes to clarity.

Today I would imagine that in a blind side by side blind comparison with everything level matched, both amps on the same set of speakers using the same source, all while using a speaker selector switch to make the switch direct and immediate with no time between listening to the results that even then it would be difficult to hear any difference at all.

 

 

Someone had offered $10,000 to anyone who could prove otherwise