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Posted

I just picked up an 03 Tahoe. I'm wanting to buy a above average set of components. At this stage vehicle is bone stock. I plan to use only stock locations. Mid around knee to lower knee height. Tweet up in the pillar aiming up towards middle of windshield. Budget is roughly $300 for the pair. Sub stage will be a btl 18 and a saz1500. Will power these components with possibly an older 800.4 fosgate.

Looking for suggestions on sets that are out there and any experience anyone has had with these they can share.

Prob won't go active, kind of intimidated by it lol.

  • Author

I also want to ccf/mlv my doors on this build. Will be my 1st time but sure I can handle it

I was happy with the IA comps.

  • Author

I went to a local shop today and listened to the Focal PS 165 set and I really liked them. Price is roughly $399. Also eyeballing some hertz hsk 165's. not able to hear those just yet, local shop that sells those was closed today. There is a local CL ad for a NIB set of the hertz hsk 165s for $289 OBO. Differences other than price I notice right away is power handling.

Anyone have any background with any of these 2 sets of components? Focals were damn nice in the shop. Confused if I can expect close performance from the hsks.

I'm not a SQ snob, but I am a fan of clear mids and highs, and to be honest, for the price and quality, I really can't think of something I'd rather have than the IA's. Inexpensive, bright, sharp, and come on you can't beat those looks. They just.... hide. Sleeper components for the win.

 

Edit: I've owned some Hertz's and don't get me wrong, they're amazing, but unless your pockets are infinitely deep, they're just amazing enough for me to throw that kind of paper at them.

Edited by gprestonmoto

  • Author

I've already outlined my plans. Is that a sufficient install?

In that truck in particular installation will trump the choice

^^This as well for sure.

  • Author

Choice was made. Ended up paying $380 out the door. Focal PS 165s. Guess its time to make sure my install will be sufficient.

  • Author

This set comes with 2 crossovers per side. The book isn't very helpful but illustrates 2 ways to power them with an amp. Ill take pics here real soon from the book. I'm sure you guys could help me understand the difference between the 2 wiring configs.

  • Author

F2D99AFB-9373-4C07-8752-9A2EC142C2FD-118

Can someone explain these 2 options please? Is the second example using a 4ch amp? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to these?

Looks like a very nice component set.

 

It has been a VERY LONG Pain in the ASS Day so I could be totally wrong with this, but this looks like your "phase" configuration setup illustration page. If it is, then this will be VERY Important for your "Stage and Image" ...

 

The First illustration is there to show you how to set up your component set configuration to where the woofer is "in phase" with the tweeter.


The second illustration is there to show you how to set up your component set configuration to where the woofer is "out of phase" with the tweeter. 180 degrees I think ...

 

Both of these configurations connect to a 2 channel amplifier (2 way passive).

However, It looks like you could set this up on a pair of 2 channel amplifiers or a single 4 channel amplifier, Just be very careful with setting up your phase choice.
 

You will need to run a competition judging CD like "USACI", "MECA", or something similar through your system and make sure that your system is playing "in phase" ... This will most likely depend on your driver placement during installation.

 

Most of the time (or in a "perfect world" application ... LOL), the correct configuration setup will be the top illustration.

Edited by Cablguy184

  • Author

Ill add the tweeter crossovers have 2 switches. One is labeled 0 -3 and -6. Other I can't make out

Edited by smashedz28

I wish I knew more about those tweeter selector switches, but we don't have that option on our (Blues) component sets ... However, a friend set his CDT switches to "0" and everything seem to work fine ...

  • Author

Yea I can play with the switches. I'm concerned with the 2 illustrations as they will effect how many wires I run to the doors. That's a lot more work to alter later. Would like to understand it a little better

The switches are for the tweeter lever. 0, -3, or -6 db. I would just listen and try out each option to what sounds best to you. As for option one or two, what amplifier are you using to power them

Yea I can play with the switches. I'm concerned with the 2 illustrations as they will effect how many wires I run to the doors. That's a lot more work to alter later. Would like to understand it a little better

If you have the wire to spare, I'd run a pair of cables as if you was planning to run active from the start ...

  • Author

Yea I can play with the switches. I'm concerned with the 2 illustrations as they will effect how many wires I run to the doors. That's a lot more work to alter later. Would like to understand it a little better

If you have the wire to spare, I'd run a pair of cables as if you was planning to run active from the start ...

Not a bad idea..

As for amp I have 3 I could use. The one I really would like to use is my crescendo c1600 2 ch but it may be too much for these. I have a smaller 4ch newer fosgate power t400.4 and an older fosgate 800.4. All are possible options

I'm running a pair of 2 channel amplifiers for my front stage ...

The larger amplifiers seem to have a lot more driver control, dynamics, and headroom than having a single 4 channel amplifier ...

I'm running a pair of 2 channel amplifiers for my front stage ...

The larger amplifiers seem to have a lot more driver control, dynamics, and headroom than having a single 4 channel amplifier ...

Translation: seem to = I've been told but I can't hear when I do a blind testing.
  • Author

M5 can you please explain the 2 wiring diagrams? I need a tech answer on this.

M5 can you please explain the 2 wiring diagrams? I need a tech answer on this.

In one setup the tweeter and mid share an amplifier +/- in the other they have independent. In the independent (requires 4chn instead of 2) you intrinisically can balance the volume difference between the tweeter and the mid whether using your amplifier gain, processor etc. That flexibility is desirable but the 0,-3,-6 somewhat do the same thing by implementing an Lpad into the crossover. If you only have a 2chn amp you have no choice, if it is a 4 you can balance the flexibility with output. Best bet is to pull wires for both, listen to your 4chn bridged and then decide if the tweeter is too hot. If you only have a 2chn, it's a moot point.
  • Author

That's what I needed. Wires cheap so ill run an extra set. From there I can play with it either way. Adjusting tweeter and woofer desperate could be useful. Also could give my c1600.2 a shot in 2ch and able to hook up my 2nd choice 4ch if I need to. Thanks guys! Ill more than likely bump this thread here when I start the project. Waiting on a quote from don for some material and a pay check before I start anything

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