I would just add the other run of 0 since you say you have it. Mite as well. I had 2 runs running 3000 watts with cheap fuse holders and nothing ever got any kind of hot.

If you really want to be sure it is the fuse holder, measure the drop across the holder.  Put one test lead on the input of the holder and one on the output.  Put it on DC volts.  With your system playing, what is the highest reading you get?

 

Until you do this, it is speculation about the holder...

 

no you measured voltage. hes telling you to measure the resistance of the fuse holder.... NOT the same thing.

 

I apologize

"measure the drop across the holder" was too much for my puny brain 2 comprehend

i will try this

sorry again for my dickery

 

 

 

 

I would just add the other run of 0 since you say you have it. Mite as well. I had 2 runs running 3000 watts with cheap fuse holders and nothing ever got any kind of hot.

I'm considering this but that would mean a hit on my pocket as I'm hoping 2 sell the extra 1/0

and make some profit this summer

 

If i were to run it tho I am thinking of going straight from alt to the back batt

is this ok?

 

I am also worried about my factory alt taking a shit if i add a second run

but theres no logic behind that, just a worry

 

 

 

 

Overall if the 13.8 is nothing 2 really worry about

especially on 2000watts

then i would be ok

but i have a bad feeling about how it'll be in the summer heat

Those holders are known to get hot enough to melt. For the few bucks it would cost to replace, its a no brainer before you lose your entire car/system to fire...

do you know how to measure the resistance of the holder? if not just ask,

 

if you have the means and funds to do 2 runs.. do it.. if not and the holder is the culprit, ( and i think it is but like 95 said  were just guessing until you measure it )   then it would be the cheapest, best fix.. either way  i think you should find the issue, 2 runs is a little over board for the load you have.

 

i personally come off the alternator straight to my rear bank. no issues.

yep, new fuse holder. there is no need to add a second run and waist money like that imo

If you really want to be sure it is the fuse holder, measure the drop across the holder.  Put one test lead on the input of the holder and one on the output.  Put it on DC volts.  With your system playing, what is the highest reading you get?

 

Until you do this, it is speculation about the holder...

 

>no you measured voltage. hes telling you to measure the resistance of the fuse holder.... NOT the same thing.

 

I apologize

"measure the drop across the holder" was too much for my puny brain 2 comprehend

i will try this

sorry again for my dickery

 

 

 

 

I would just add the other run of 0 since you say you have it. Mite as well. I had 2 runs running 3000 watts with cheap fuse holders and nothing ever got any kind of hot.

I'm considering this but that would mean a hit on my pocket as I'm hoping 2 sell the extra 1/0

and make some profit this summer

 

If i were to run it tho I am thinking of going straight from alt to the back batt

is this ok?

 

I am also worried about my factory alt taking a shit if i add a second run

but theres no logic behind that, just a worry

 

 

 

 

Overall if the 13.8 is nothing 2 really worry about

especially on 2000watts

then i would be ok

but i have a bad feeling about how it'll be in the summer heat

 

Do you already have the big three to the front battery? And then a 1/0 to the rear? 

yes i do

and a (+) and (-) run to back batt

the way how their furrow fittings work sucks.  

 

I'm curious on something though since that much voltage drop across just a few inches is rare.. how hot does it feel if you place your hand over and around the fuse holder?  Feel both ends, does any of it feel warm or hot?

 

It should feel cold.

 

it is a little warm all around but not so much that i cannot touch

i'm nervous about how much worse things will be in the summer

 

ive had problems with scosche fuses

i figured going with knu i would be ok.....

 

It seems a little off though because I am only running a stock alt

its not like im pushing 220 amps through the fuse

and it is a 300 amp fuse anyways

 

idk maybe the fuse holder is way less conductive

than my ofc 1/0 gauge

so when the current hits the fuse it has issues

all thats guessing tho

 

i just thought a fuse holder is only 2 pieces of metal

how dumb does a company have 2 be 2 mess it up

 

Yea.. EXACTLY.. 

 

Dumb enough to manufacturer it without actually testing it in the real world i guess.

 

It's sad that people like Toolmaker and Project DB exist because these companies who have a high financial backbone can't even get the damn basics of conductivity right for NORMAL operations.. 

 

Of course you would be fine with Stinger but hey, anything should work.. 

 

I would probably say Tsunami and Xscorpion would be fine too.

I highly doubt it's the holder. It's more than likely the fuse.