Use a dmm and check the coil to see if you have around 4 ohms. A zero reading would mean a broken wire or burned up coil. If it reads around four you have a amp issue.

 

 

Alton beat me.

Edited April 11, 201312 yr by pmureika

You can disconnect the speeaker wire from he amp and use a double a battery. touch the leads to the each side of the battery at the same time the sub should move up or down.If it doesnt you need to remove the sub and check your wiring.

A zero reading would indicate a short.  An high or infinite reading would indicate a torn lead or cooked coil...  (assuming the coil didn't cook into one blob of copper shorted on the former)

My vote is on RCA's they will get you every time!  specially if the amp isnt secured 100% but it looks clean from the photos. I doubt its a "internal" problem on the amp since he has two other channels working correctly,

Edited April 15, 201312 yr by Dictator

So for whatever reason, the sub works when I push in the logo... it works for a while then stops working... then if I push it in again it works... all the wiring is secure and fine but it seems to have something to do with the sub itself.

The tinsel leads are broke loose from the voice coil leads.  Often times an issue with running the sub well beyond it's mechanical limits.

The tinsel leads are broke loose from the voice coil leads.  Often times an issue with running the sub well beyond it's mechanical limits.

is this a difficult fix? and the s4 dcon at 500w at 4 ohms destroyed the dcon? why is this ? would a higher rated rms sub such as a GCON work better ?

 

 

or was I wired at 250 at 8 ohms ?

Edited May 13, 201312 yr by [email protected]

It's as much box dependent as it is power dependent.  I don't recall a post on what enclosure the sub is/was in, but as I did post before the amp has no SSF (sub sonic filter) so if you have it in a ported enclosure tuned to say the upper 30hz region for example and were playing tones or music below that frequency it wouldn't take much power to drive the sub beyond it's mechanical limits and cause this kind of damage.  Even if it were in a sealed box, if the sealed enclosure was way too large or if it had some leaks the same issue can occur.  

 

It all depends on the suspension on a given speaker, but I've had some 6" speakers that you could easily destroy mechanically (ramming the voice coil into the back plate, running the coil completely out of the gap and hanging it on the top plate, tearing the surround or spiders, things of that nature) on only a few watts of power at those kinds of low frequencies in free air.  When you play music, tones, etc. on a sub in a ported enclosure below the frequency it's tuned to the enclosure is no longer helping to control the cones movement.  Far enough below tuning and it's pretty much the same as free air and it sure doesn't take too much for some drivers to destroy themselves mechanically.  Now, given it's lasted a year in these conditions, the suspension has held up and it obviously has enough room in the motor to keep from smacking the voice coil into the back plate.  The problem is running it like that, making it pull on the tinsels where they attach over and over again, like taking a piece of solid wire and bending it back and forth for awhile, eventually it will break.

 

What are the specifications of the enclosure it was in?  Give us every measurement and we can run those measurements and verify what the volume and tuning of the enclosure is.  My money is on the enclosure being tuned high and with no SSF the sub was unloading in the enclosure and finally gave in to the stress.

 

 

As far as the fix, it should be reconed to repair it properly.  I've gotten lucky over the years and repaired a few drivers by resoldering the lead back onto the voice coil wire but that's few and far between.

The box is as follows:

 

 

mdf enclosure w/ charcoal carpet, spring loaded terminal cup
aero port
 double/flushed baffle
 45 deg angles
 internal bracing

29hz

 

 

Made by Vitveet

 

 

I believe these are the dimensions 24" wide
16" high
14" deep (15.5" after double and flushed mounted baffles)
After
all displacements, it's 2.18 cubes of airspace tuned to 29 hz!  Sub
will face back and port will fire to either side (drivers or
passenger's).

Edited May 15, 201312 yr by [email protected]

Any thing?

Remove the sub and post some pics of the sub. Might help point out what happened.

With you talking about pushing on the cone and it THEN working, m thought is a separated coil. Push on it and it smashes back together, then works its way back apart.

J

Would anyone be interested in buying my broken sub ?

why not recone it? 

why not recone it? 

I don't know how, and isnt it more than a recone, it seems the tinsel lead snapped ? I'm not sure

Edited June 5, 201312 yr by [email protected]

why not recone it? 

I don't know how, and isnt it more than a recone, it seems the tinsel lead snapped ? I'm not sure

It is just a recone, and it is fairly easy to do.

 recone it.

Would I need to add a basket ? What does that mean

 no basket needed.  juat the recone kit

 no basket needed.  juat the recone kit

Its only 50 dollars more to just buy a brand new DCON... and I don't have any idea how to recone, nor do I have a soldering iron.. Any suggestions ?

 reconing is pretty simple on a 12 and a soildering iron is only a few bucks online and most times they come with solder

 you can youtube reconing TONS of videos on how to's

Buy a new DCON and send me the basket that you have...

Buy a new DCON and send me the basket that you have...

Pay for that

 you can youtube reconing TONS of videos on how to's

I saw one video that looked kind of intricate it had a sander type tool grinding all excess material off the inner sub? I don't have that

 yes you do... if you dont have the tools to do so then  just buy a new one and list this motor and basket for sale  on the FS part of SSa... but you will be selling it as just that... a motor and a basket... it wont go for much because just as you stated its only 50 bucks more for a new one.