So I am going to do an upgrade and was wanting some feedback on how it will do. The upgrade with consist of 2 ssa icons in a a 32hz box which I would like to have a 3.5cu ft after displacement of .16 x 2 from driver with a crescendo bc2000d and will run of 4awg power and ground til I have the money to get a spool of 2 or 0 ga wire. I'm a bit confused on the rms rating of the icons since they only show 1250rms but no info on peek, which I would like to know how far I could push them. Which way would or should I have to face the box so that more of the bass goes to the inside of the car and vibrate the seats to help massage my back after a 10 and a half hour day of work. Thanks to all that can help me.

Peak ratings are useless. The ICON can take 1250 all day everyday, but that doesn't mean that they need it.

So I am going to do an upgrade and was wanting some feedback on how it will do. The upgrade with consist of 2 ssa icons in a a 32hz box which I would like to have a 3.5cu ft after displacement of .16 x 2 from driver with a crescendo bc2000d and will run of 4awg power and ground til I have the money to get a spool of 2 or 0 ga wire. I'm a bit confused on the rms rating of the icons since they only show 1250rms but no info on peek, which I would like to know how far I could push them. Which way would or should I have to face the box so that more of the bass goes to the inside of the car and vibrate the seats to help massage my back after a 10 and a half hour day of work. Thanks to all that can help me.

 

Ok, I'm going to try and feel you in some knowledge ok. 

 

You don't go by RMS:

RMS is only there to sort of guide you to the right power limitation  but will not dictact how much power a driver can handle. This is because each application is different. You may only want 1000 watts for every day, but then you want 5000 watts for a competition. This is because  depending on the application, the subwoofer can handle "X" amount of power for "X" amount of time. RMS is the limitation before heat failure.

 

Second thing is the RMS of the amplifier:

 

This is the most easiest way to think about it, that amplifier can do 2000 watts, sure. Can it do it 24/7, would you want it to do it 24/7, the answer is proablly no. So this being said, you would want to apply more than rated power so that you can have whats known as headroom. That way, the amplifier can supply "X" amount of power comfortably for "X" amount of time. Does that make sense?

 

To break it down even further. You would want a amplifier to supply RMS power by operating at 60% versus using a amplifier to supply rms power operating at 100%. This does several things. It reduces the chances of clipping, or distortion. Keeps your amplifier cool. Keeps your electrical system happier, because it doesn't have to strain itself to provide "X" amount of power, ETC. 

 

For your application, I would buy a BC2000 PER subwoofer, and upgrade your electrical has your budget permits. 

 

There is no "PEAK" because that is just a gimmicky. You can't say "Peak", because the "Peak" will change with every variable.

 

I hope this helps.

For your camry, I would do sub and port facing rear. The loudest camry's out there face port and sub forward into cabin. Unless you have the tools and fabriaction to do so, I would face towards trunk. What these other camry's do, is, they use a aero port. I believe for two 15"s, they use a 10" aero port that is flared, and for 12s they use a single 8". With the aero port in between the subwoofers. Everything is completely sealed from the trunk. So that all the air that is being displaced is inside the cabin. 

I kind of want to run one amp for two subs. So how does amp gain come into play, if a driver can only handle suggested power

I kind of want to run one amp for two subs. So how does amp gain come into play, if a driver can only handle suggested power

 

You can run one amp for the two subs, that's just fine, I was just giving the suggestion I would follow if budget permitted. Two ICONS will handle 1000 rms VERY easily, haha. I don't exactly understand your question. The RMS of those subs are 1250, you will only be applying 1000 per, in a perfect world that is. So, they will have no problem handling that power. You just set the gain how you normally would. By ear, listening for any stress, smelling anything unusually, listening for any abnormal sounds, ETC. The way I do it, and in your case, when your supplying less than RMS, and don't plan to upgrade power, build the box a little on the big side, and then turn the gain up until you don't get any more output gain, then just tab it down a bit from there. That easy. 

I'm doing gains with dmm which right now with an x1200m and Polk audio and alpine type r is 60 acv. It is my first time doing car audio with what I have currently. I'm not that sure if I have it right with the gain since I'm still new to it but have been reading when I have time. I know you where giving a suggestion budget right now is just upgrading as I go

Edited May 1, 201312 yr by grumby13

I'm doing gains with dmm which right now with an x1200m and Polk audio and alpine type r is 60 acv. It is my first time doing car audio with what I have currently. I'm not that sure if I have it right with the gain since I'm still new to it but have been reading when I have time. I know you where giving a suggestion budget right now is just upgrading as I go

 

I suppose you can do it that method. Though I'm not the biggest fan of it. Just do as I suggested above when gain setting.

Setting the Lpf and isf is only thing that I don't have a good idea to set them to

Setting the Lpf and isf is only thing that I don't have a good idea to set them to

Lol, man, there is a lot you don't know huh

 

Just do some research on this website man. Do a little  

 

Depending on your box, you will set your LPF to 63/80/100 usually. And then if its sealed, set it to 0, and then if its ported, set it to 3-5hz below tuning. This is all generally speaking. 

Setting the Lpf and isf is only thing that I don't have a good idea to set them to

Lol, man, there is a lot you don't know huh

 

Just do some research on this website man. Do a little

 

Depending on your box, you will set your LPF to 63/80/100 usually. And then if its sealed, set it to 0, and then if its ported, set it to 3-5hz below tuning. This is all generally speaking. 

 

 

He is talking about the SSF or ISF on some amplifiers.... Funny thing is even when sealed I've set the SSF to around 15-20hz ... I think this is why I have blown my setup when it was overpowered or maybe I'm just lucky.... But now I has no bass ... sad to say but soon I hope to have monies again and get the JL 500w back inside the car .... 

I do not no the tuning on the box since there is no info on the web for it

Sure there is man. Not everything is going to be baby fed to you bro. Like what the hell. Research how to find what your box is tuned to. Then do the needful to find your answer... Not that hard...

I do not no the tuning on the box since there is no info on the web for it

Ill help a little. Measure all dimensions of your box then subtract the wood thickness used. ie if your box is 32 inches wide and its made from .5 inch mdf then your usable space is 31 inches. that's if there are no dividers or port in the equation. do the same with your height and depth. just be sure to subtract your wood as it makes a big difference in air space. Then measure your port length width and height. thatll get you started hopefully. good luck

The box has been discontinued since 2010 or 2011 and it was part of loaded enclosure set

Thought you said it was gonna be 32hz or are you all talkin about his current box?

I do not no the tuning on the box since there is no info on the web for it

You need to scrap that box and build one for the new subs your getting to get the best performance from them.

I do not no the tuning on the box since there is no info on the web for it

You need to scrap that box and build one for the new subs your getting to get the best performance from them.

 

^^^ Exactly.  There's no sense at all putting a high quality sub in an enclosure that's not optimal (or with completely unknown specs).  It's kind of like putting an $18,000 race engine in a Metro, it just doesn't make any sense.

 

Build or buy a custom built enclosure for the subs and you'll be MUCH better off in the long run.

So I am going to do an upgrade and was wanting some feedback on how it will do. The upgrade with consist of 2 ssa icons in a a 32hz box which I would like to have a 3.5cu ft after displacement of .16 x 2 from driver with a crescendo bc2000d and will run of 4awg power and ground til I have the money to get a spool of 2 or 0 ga wire. I'm a bit confused on the rms rating of the icons since they only show 1250rms but no info on peek, which I would like to know how far I could push them. Which way would or should I have to face the box so that more of the bass goes to the inside of the car and vibrate the seats to help massage my back after a 10 and a half hour day of work. Thanks to all that can help me.

bc2000d takes 0 gage wire 4gage wont work.

I have it hooked up with 4gauge works fine but my new box will try to get 32hz I was thinking the khaotik but 4cu ft is a bit big if I can get 3.5 that will be fine but if I should get 4.0 I have nothing wrong with it but need some space for the other person that drives the car

I have it hooked up with 4gauge works fine but my new box will try to get 32hz I was thinking the khaotik but 4cu ft is a bit big if I can get 3.5 that will be fine but if I should get 4.0 I have nothing wrong with it but need some space for the other person that drives the car

I say at least 4 cubes with the icons,but I could be wrong.been wrong before lol(and go with 0 gauge wire)

Edited May 4, 201312 yr by garychurch84

What would happen if I was .5 cuft under recommened size and what benefit would I see with the 0 gauge wire

What would happen if I was .5 cuft under recommened size and what benefit would I see with the 0 gauge wire

for one it will carry the load much better than the 4 ga wire,imo would be a more efficient power supply.for two it was designed to use the 0 ga wire for a reason otherwise the mountin lug would be smaller.

Alright well in a few weeks I will get a spool of red and another color just have to find a good price

How many subs in the 4th cu ft box ?