Looks great!  Really like how its not as deep as my current box, along with being the same width so I can likely use the same "skirt" I already have made.  Thanks man!

Awesome.  I wanted the width and height to match so that it looks like your current setup when the trunk opens.  You really did a nice job on that, fits like a glove.  Now, since it's just a sealed enclosure and there's not much to it I didn't go all crazy with angles and views like I usually do with the ported enclosures.  With the ported enclosures I think it helps get a good visual for how it all goes together and such but with the sealed, well, it just seemed a bit superfluous to do.  Of course, if you have any questions at all please don't hesitate to ask.

 

 

Here's the cutsheet.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's just a quick rendering of about what it will look like finished, for the fun of it.

 

Please ignore the one line that says "PORT" side.  I have a spreadsheet that's all formatted for doing this stuff and forgot to edit that line, lol.

wow looks good alton...really good

 

any chance i can pm you about a ported box design for 2 15 xcons?

wow looks good alton...really good

 

any chance i can pm you about a ported box design for 2 15 xcons?

 

Certainly.

Alton, one quick question, what size is the second opening on the second layer?  I'm assuming the opening on the back layer (the mounting surface for the sub) is 11 3/16", but I'm unsure of the finising layer.  Only asking since I dont have the sub in hand to really measure it out, and my plan was to build this so when the sub gets here it will be ready to toss.

 

Thanks for the compliments on the current box also.  Really appreciate all the help and design work you did for me.

Not a problem, I'm glad I could help.  As for the sub's dimensions for the cutout diameter and the outside diameter, they're on the website, but the cutout is 11.125" (11 1/8") and the OD of the sub is listed as 12.5" but that is one that wouldn't hurt to add a little wiggle room to I would imagine.

^{Ah ok.  The pre-built blueprint I downloaded showed 11 3/16, I didnt see the 11 1/8.  I do see what you're saying about the OD being 12.5", so with the box being 12.5" tall, I'll just basically cut two half-moon peices to surround the sub.  Thanks!}

Edited May 10, 201312 yr by riored4v

 

Have you considered using a single 4" precision aeroport? they require less displacement than a standard slot port.

 

Have you considered using a single 4" precision aeroport? they require less displacement than a standard slot port.

That is nowhere near enough port area.

 

 

Have you considered using a single 4" precision aeroport? they require less displacement than a standard slot port.

That is nowhere near enough port area.

You can get away with less on a flared aeroport and plus the OP will be using it on low power. 

 

 

 

Have you considered using a single 4" precision aeroport? they require less displacement than a standard slot port.

That is nowhere near enough port area.

You can get away with less on a flared aeroport and plus the OP will be using it on low power. 

It is still not enough.

Got the box built.  Still needs carpet though.  I want to mount the old "skirt" to the box so I can carpet it all as one single peice as well.  Turns out the double baffle/flush mount is a bit harder that I figured it would be be, but the size of the box caused that issue.

 

IMAG1935 by riored4v, on Flickr

 

IMAG1936 by riored4v, on Flickr

Stupid question, but where does your box hit?  From the picture it appears to be limited by the rear deck speakers, or is it limited by the rear deck closest to the seats?

 

In case 1, I don't know why the rear speakers wouldn't be removed.

 

In case 2, you could have built the box with a slanted top.

 

 

I know my questions are late, just saw this thread.

Both. Right up against the cross brace behind the rear seat and also right up (within a few cm) of the rear speakers. I want to keep the rear speakers so no worries on the lateness haha.

quick question: i thought the purpose of 45's were to reduce turbulence in a port. is there a gain (spl) when using 45's in a sealed box?

I think his purpose was for strength/bracing.  I could be wrong though.

I think his purpose was for strength/bracing.  I could be wrong though.

 

Yep. just to add a little something to the strength of those corners.  Not completely necessary, but it also gets the internal volume dead on.  Not that that's completely necessary, especially in a sealed enclosure, the 45's only make up like one or two hundredths of a cuft of volume but I like it when the numbers are right.  

Both. Right up against the cross brace behind the rear seat and also right up (within a few cm) of the rear speakers. I want to keep the rear speakers so no worries on the lateness haha.

 

Can I ask why? They serve no purpose other than fill. Also they can be affected by the sub-woofer, causing an increase in distortion under high pressure levels.  And lastly, by removing them, you can increase bass response.

There's been a decent number of times with some of the music I listen to where the rears are really pronounced. I guess I like the "surround sound" effect. 

There's been a decent number of times with some of the music I listen to where the rears are really pronounced. I guess I like the "surround sound" effect. 

 

I can understand that, but 99% of all music is recorded in stereo.  Unless your watching dvd's in your car, your rear speakers simple add midbass and noise, and pull the soundstage rearward.

 

On top of that, as previously mentioned, I used to run rear speakers, and upon finding the subwoofer sounding sloppy, I found out it was actually my rear speaker, which had torn the cone from the surrounds from the pressure created by the subwoofers.

 

And honestly, if you like them, keep them. I'm just trying to educate members when I see the chance. I'm not saying that you are wrong, but rear speakers provide a placebo effect more so than any acoustical advantage.

Naw, I appreciate the info and in all honesty, I had never thought of the pressure from the trunk causing issues on the rear speakers.  With some of the electronic I've just noticed times where the sounds will somewhat "circle" around me.  Could just be me though. 

 

With the bass response comment, could you elaborate more on that?  Is it because of the lack of speakers allowing the it to vent to the cabin? Or am I completely wrong?

Naw, I appreciate the info and in all honesty, I had never thought of the pressure from the trunk causing issues on the rear speakers.  With some of the electronic I've just noticed times where the sounds will somewhat "circle" around me.  Could just be me though. 

 

With the bass response comment, could you elaborate more on that?  Is it because of the lack of speakers allowing the it to vent to the cabin? Or am I completely wrong?

 

Essentially yes, sound waves much like water and other fluids prefer to travel the path of least resistance.  Removing the rear speakers, creates a new path for sound waves to enter the passenger compartment.

Cool.  I've actually been giving that some thought to try and think of a way to improve on that.  Hadn't thought of removing the rear speakers to do it though.  I just know its alot louder with the rear seat(s) down so I was thinking of trying to create a port/vent of sorts in the rear decklid and doing something with the carpet/cover to make it appear factory still.  Thanks for the info!

That's actually what I did in my car, because I was not was happy with the rear seats up. Removed the two rear 6x9's and it was more acceptable.