has anyone ever used them I have 2 of them that rest at 13v and are 210ah a piece just wondering

anything on them?

AH doesn't mean a whole lot for our uses.. unless you're going to put a small drain over x hours it doesn't. Look at Cranking amps which is a better indicator of what a battery supply.

AH doesn't mean a whole lot for our uses.. unless you're going to put a small drain over x hours it doesn't. Look at Cranking amps which is a better indicator of what a battery supply.

Are you serious?? I thought the whole idea of car audio batteries was high ah ratings. Jeez I obviously need to quit or do years more research!

*In no way shape form or fashion is this directed at you Julian, I just honestly had NO clue the ah rating wasn't the main factor in car audio   smh

AH doesn't mean a whole lot for our uses.. unless you're going to put a small drain over x hours it doesn't. Look at Cranking amps which is a better indicator of what a battery supply.

Are you serious?? I thought the whole idea of car audio batteries was high ah ratings. Jeez I obviously need to quit or do years more research!

*In no way shape form or fashion is this directed at you Julian, I just honestly had NO clue the ah rating wasn't the main factor in car audio   smh

I also think it would be important.

i agree. AH is very important.  its the amount of reserve of a deep cycle battery , cranking amps matters too..   because it is the burst output rating. from what i recall

+1 I think you are correct!

So you sit there and play your system on low volume for hours? CA IMO is the BEST way to determine battery strength, The rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery, granted you'd never see that low). What does MOST music contain?  I'd say most bass lines in songs can average around 30 seconds. SO the battery with the higher CA would be able to supply X amount of amps for 30 seconds. 

 

Ampere-hours (A·h) is a measure of electrical charge that a battery can deliver. This quantity is one indicator of the total amount of charge that a battery is able to store and deliver at its rated voltage. Its value is the product of the discharge-current (in amperes), multiplied by the duration (in hours) for which this discharge-current can be sustained by the battery. Generally, this value (or rating) varies widely with the duration of the discharge period (see: Peukert's Law), therefore the value is typically only meaningful when the duration is specified. This rating is rarely stated for automotive batteries, except in Europe where it is required by law. Nominal capacity(A·h) by EN 60095-1, is rated at a fixed discharge current of I/20, within 20 hrs until final discharge voltage of 10.5 V at 25°C is reached.

Edited May 22, 201312 yr by Julian

So you sit there and play your system on low volume for hours? CA IMO is the BEST way to determine battery strength, The rating is defined as the number of amperes a lead-acid battery at that temperature can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery, granted you'd never see that low). What does MOST music contain?  I'd say most bass lines in songs can average around 30 seconds. SO the battery with the higher CA would be able to supply X amount of amps for 30 seconds. 

I agree the cca for 30 seconds is the important part for short bursts of power. Like with audio music. Not the ah which is for long term draw.

 yes i understand that.

If there is no CA rating you can also look at CCA rating, it'll be lower because it is measured at 0 degrees F. So it'll be lower than CA but it will be higher when at higher temps.

There are many types of batteries available, of course – which one is
right for you? For audio installations, experience has shown that the
best results will be obtained using deep-cycle marine batteries. These
batteries can be obtained from almost any dealer for approximately $60.
Lead-acid batteries are preferred over calcium-based (maintenance-free)
batteries because of their superior internal characteristics.
Maintenance-free batteries are usually designed to provide a large
amount of current for a short period of time. This is great for starting
your car, but not so great for running a high-powered system.

Deep-cycle marine batteries, on the other hand, are designed to
provide a moderate-to-large amount of current over a long period of
time. The plates in each cell are thicker, and they are made for deep,
cyclic use. This is important because you can severely drain this type
of battery without damaging it, which is ideal for car audio
installations.

There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a
battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This
indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a
short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a
battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you
would be most interested in.)

The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of
your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how
much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time.
The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries
have AH ratings of 85 to 105.

The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle
marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys
ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge
cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better.

Installing the extra battery or batteries in parallel will result in
the most efficient use of its (their) power. When using this method of
connection, your total AH rating is the sum of the AH ratings of all of
your batteries. Note that batteries installed in this manner should be
identical (the same make and model). If theyre not the same, their
internal impedances will differ and, eventually, one battery will
discharge the other.

When wiring the electrical system, dont skimp on large-gauge wire.
Welding cable is preferable because of its tough outer jacket, fine wire
strands, and good flexibility. The bottom line is that you should never
use less than No. 4 wire. Also, dont forget to install 150-amp circuit
breakers at each end of the power cable running from the front to the
rear of the car. The circuit breakers will protect the vehicle in case
of a short somewhere along the length of the cable.

Its important to take the time to plan out your electrical system. A
properly designed and installed system will provide a good foundation
for your auto sound components while maintaining reliability and safety.
The audibly superior performance will be well worth the added time and
expense.

I simply disagree.

"Usually" higher rated CA or CCA will correlate with higher AH .... "USUALLY" .... so in theory looking at higher CA or CCA will also give you good AH rating as well....

 

 

maybe that was said in one of the posts but I be lazy right now and this is shorter to read

has anyone ever used them I have 2 of them that rest at 13v and are 210ah a piece just wondering

also, aren't those used for boats/RVs since they maintain well without being charged often??? stronger reserve meant for periodic use and lots of accessories .... I think!

Ok, here is a brief way to answer everything here.. 

 

PHCA would be the spec to look at if you were burping.. if they list it.

CA\CCA would be the spec to look at for averaging.

NOTE-  PHCA\CA\CCA all are rated in time via PULSE current so I guess we can somewhat correlate that with dynamic draw(hopefully).

 

aH by itself is pointless, but when compared with other batteries, this will let you know which batteries have longer reserve for averaging or demoing, daily driving, etc.. 

 

I can not give an estimate to the amount of aH to look for for a certain amount of power, but i can say this to point out what Shogen said-

 

Higher CA usually brings higher aH.

 

Eh.. yes but depending on the focus of the battery, that is when that changes.

 

IE- D3100 has 110aH but equivalent batts of like weight or Max Amps or CA\CCA will have considerably MORE aH than the D3100.

 

XS Power D series is engineered so it will slightly sacrifice reserve for more instantaneous burst of power.

This method reduces the amount of voltage drop that other batteries will undoubtedly suffer from.

 

I would purely look at aH just as a reference to compare the spec to other batts to gauge how their reserve is IF you are going to be using them that way.

 

Otherwise, companies like XS Power, Odyssey, Xstatic.. there reserve specs on some of their batts are far different than other typical AGM batteries.

^{yes the lifeline battery is for marine and rv use but it does not carry a cranking amp rating because its not used for a starting purpose... currently these things weigh well over 100 lbs. and rest at 13v steady a guy who had them said he had 7k on 1 of them never dipping below 13v on a stock alternator.... I do know these batteries are expensive}

^{yes the lifeline battery is for marine and rv use but it does not carry a cranking amp rating because its not used for a starting purpose... currently these things weigh well over 100 lbs. and rest at 13v steady a guy who had them said he had 7k on 1 of them never dipping below 13v on a stock alternator.... I do know these batteries are expensive}

 

That guy is flat full of shit. Maybe he also still gets visited by the tooth fairy and santa claus. 

Edited May 23, 201312 yr by swift

well I have 2 of them so ill see how they perform I only need one lol

I had 4 XS batteries and a 370amp alt on 7k. Man I should have bought of of those lifelines and called it a day. Would have saved me 1000 bucks, lmao

Edited May 23, 201312 yr by swift

There are many types of batteries available, of course – which one is

right for you? For audio installations, experience has shown that the

best results will be obtained using deep-cycle marine batteries. These

batteries can be obtained from almost any dealer for approximately $60.

Lead-acid batteries are preferred over calcium-based (maintenance-free)

batteries because of their superior internal characteristics.

Maintenance-free batteries are usually designed to provide a large

amount of current for a short period of time. This is great for starting

your car, but not so great for running a high-powered system.

Deep-cycle marine batteries, on the other hand, are designed to

provide a moderate-to-large amount of current over a long period of

time. The plates in each cell are thicker, and they are made for deep,

cyclic use. This is important because you can severely drain this type

of battery without damaging it, which is ideal for car audio

installations.

There are three ratings you should check out when selecting a

battery. The first is the CCA (cold-cranking amps) rating. This

indicates a batterys ability to provide a large amount of current for a

short period of time at cold temperatures. (If youre looking for a

battery that will be used just to start your car, this is the rating you

would be most interested in.)

The second rating, and the one that is most important in terms of

your system, is the AH (amp/hour) rating. This rating simply states how

much current the battery is capable of delivering for a period of time.

The larger the rating, the better. Typical deep-cycle marine batteries

have AH ratings of 85 to 105.

The third rating you should look at is reserve time. Deep-cycle

marine batteries really shine here. Reserve time represents the batterys

ability to recover and produce electrical energy after a discharge

cycle – without re-charging. The longer the reserve time, the better.

Installing the extra battery or batteries in parallel will result in

the most efficient use of its (their) power. When using this method of

connection, your total AH rating is the sum of the AH ratings of all of

your batteries. Note that batteries installed in this manner should be

identical (the same make and model). If theyre not the same, their

internal impedances will differ and, eventually, one battery will

discharge the other.

When wiring the electrical system, dont skimp on large-gauge wire.

Welding cable is preferable because of its tough outer jacket, fine wire

strands, and good flexibility. The bottom line is that you should never

use less than No. 4 wire. Also, dont forget to install 150-amp circuit

breakers at each end of the power cable running from the front to the

rear of the car. The circuit breakers will protect the vehicle in case

of a short somewhere along the length of the cable.

Its important to take the time to plan out your electrical system. A

properly designed and installed system will provide a good foundation

for your auto sound components while maintaining reliability and safety.

The audibly superior performance will be well worth the added time and

expense.

considering that it only has the AH rating means?