I love my 80prs as far as features go. Lots of control with it. Is there any double din touch screen hu's out there capable of processing? Looking to put one in my 03 Tahoe.

I'm happy with my Kenwood DNX9980HD ... I think the newer models are even better.

 

Googled this one on a thread the other day ... http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2012/multimedia/navigation/NX702/us-en-product-hi_1259559423434.html

Seemed like a very nice headunit !!!

I'm happy with my Kenwood DNX9980HD ... I think the newer models are even better.

Googled this one on a thread the other day ... http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2012/multimedia/navigation/NX702/us-en-product-hi_1259559423434.html

Seemed like a very nice headunit !!!

I second the nx702. It seems to be the only full active dd from all the research I've done. I have a dnx9990hd and want to make the switch myself, but I can't justify because I have one issue and it is the ability to turn volume up and down fast when you want to roll in to burps. The Kenwood is so slow I hate it for that one reason. It's not because it's Kenwood though since my 996 single din has no issues. I assume it's just hardware/software related. The Kenwood does have signs of active as you can set curves and cutoffs on 1 end of spectrum though.

yup, the nx702 has my choice

Any double din you want plus mini dsp equals tons of options

I'm happy with my Kenwood DNX9980HD ... I think the newer models are even better.

Googled this one on a thread the other day ... http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2012/multimedia/navigation/NX702/us-en-product-hi_1259559423434.html

Seemed like a very nice headunit !!!

I second the nx702. It seems to be the only full active dd from all the research I've done. I have a dnx9990hd and want to make the switch myself, but I can't justify because I have one issue and it is the ability to turn volume up and down fast when you want to roll in to burps. The Kenwood is so slow I hate it for that one reason. It's not because it's Kenwood though since my 996 single din has no issues. I assume it's just hardware/software related. The Kenwood does have signs of active as you can set curves and cutoffs on 1 end of spectrum though.

Yea, My Kenwood runs on the slower side too, which suits me perfectly cause I seem to run the same way these days ... LOL

If these units had better crossover capabilities, It would be alot easier to work with. Cause I'm having to run an external active electronic crossover on my mid bass drivers to chop off the top end (the Linear Power XO2) ...

Nice looking head unit. As I figured its a bit out of my price range.

Any double din you want plus mini dsp equals tons of options

 

 

This is another option I was talking about with a friend recently. Anything wrong with running 2 of the 2x4's in the event I wanted to still have the option to fade/balance from the headunit and keep mids and horns separate on the front side. I probably wouldn't even imagine the necessity to run the sub channel through one of these (tell me why i should if you think i should). I can see myself cutting some plexi and running them all in the same box is why i ask and you can pickup the bare 2x4 for like 80 bucks. 

 

Sorry, didn't mean to derail

I have 2 2x4's in my boat

I have 2 2x4's in my boat

 

To hell with you ///M5 .. ffs your boat sounds better than my car im sure haha

 

Out of curiosity, what was your purpose for running 2 of them? Anything similar to my reasoning above by chance?

It is active.  "Front stage" takes 4 chn's so if I need a sub there is another channel.

 

My boat has zones.  Tower is active, internal boat speakers passive.  2chn for sub, 2 for tower mids, 2 for tower tweets, 2 for in boats.  Stock passives blow donkey so a lot of massaging was done with the miniDSP.

I also use NO headunit.  Just passive volume pots for each channel.  The only source is my tablet connected to a 500gb hard drive.

My skill level for an active setup is very little. Been telling myself for the past 2 vehicles I was going to run an active front stage and bitched out. I'm intimidated by it. Picked up a 80prs for my Malibu and got it on standard mode with a passive component set. I love the options and haven't even kicked it into big boy mode yet.

Now I've always read that buying a passive component set and running it active isn't always the best bet. True?

About 6 months ago I purchased a focal polyglass set. Ps165. Does it make sense to run this set active? Spent a lot of money on them and that ultimately will decide how I approach the front stage in my Tahoe. Guess I'm still undecided and a bit lost on where I want to go. I could afford another 80prs but its so damn ugly lol. Hell maybe I can just throw in a $400 pioneer DD and add processing later?

My skill level for an active setup is very little. Been telling myself for the past 2 vehicles I was going to run an active front stage and bitched out. I'm intimidated by it. Picked up a 80prs for my Malibu and got it on standard mode with a passive component set. I love the options and haven't even kicked it into big boy mode yet.

Now I've always read that buying a passive component set and running it active isn't always the best bet. True?

About 6 months ago I purchased a focal polyglass set. Ps165. Does it make sense to run this set active? Spent a lot of money on them and that ultimately will decide how I approach the front stage in my Tahoe. Guess I'm still undecided and a bit lost on where I want to go. I could afford another 80prs but its so damn ugly lol. Hell maybe I can just throw in a $400 pioneer DD and add processing later?

 

After running active in the past with two older mtx crossovers and then going back to passive again. I can say beyond a doubt that it depends on how well the crossover that's included with the component set is. I personally would rather hear each set of speakers/tweeters individually to set their crossover points instead of hooking it all up and just cranking the gain until you hear audible distortion. For instance, I have a USD horn component set where the horns can take more power than the mids. However, the mids try their best to keep up and will distort like crazy while the horns are like "where's the power?" . So in that circumstance I would rather go active. Not that my case would matter to how you are running your system and what your goals are, but my goal was to have a front stage that can get loud with my sub stage and didn't sound like shit doing it.

I also use NO headunit.  Just passive volume pots for each channel.  The only source is my tablet connected to a 500gb hard drive.

 

I like this idea and can see why you would do this. Have an uncle that had 2 headunits stolen out of his boat at his slip. I'm sure it's convenient to have everything hidden away.

To me it all comes down to how much time you spend in your car. Most of the time I am not in my vehicle long enough to need a sound system that is close to perfect.

This particular vehicle will be driven on weekends. Doesn't mean I want any less quality sound though. I think this thread has ran it's course. Should have named it differently. I'm thinking I need to take a different approach to learning an active setup. Probably should settle on a decent looking double din for this vehicle and put my attention to install of this focal set in my doors. These speakers sounded amazing to me in the shops sound board. Thanks for everyone's advice and pointing me towards a active capable head unit. When time and most importantly budget allows ill tackle it!

My skill level for an active setup is very little. Been telling myself for the past 2 vehicles I was going to run an active front stage and bitched out. I'm intimidated by it. Picked up a 80prs for my Malibu and got it on standard mode with a passive component set. I love the options and haven't even kicked it into big boy mode yet.

Now I've always read that buying a passive component set and running it active isn't always the best bet. True?

About 6 months ago I purchased a focal polyglass set. Ps165. Does it make sense to run this set active? Spent a lot of money on them and that ultimately will decide how I approach the front stage in my Tahoe. Guess I'm still undecided and a bit lost on where I want to go. I could afford another 80prs but its so damn ugly lol. Hell maybe I can just throw in a $400 pioneer DD and add processing later?

You are making it way too complicated.  I have NEVER seen a good passive crossover.  That being said a poorly implemented active will sound worse than a passive, but it is easy to move back and forth.  It will help train your ear more than anything,

I also use NO headunit.  Just passive volume pots for each channel.  The only source is my tablet connected to a 500gb hard drive.

 

I like this idea and can see why you would do this. Have an uncle that had 2 headunits stolen out of his boat at his slip. I'm sure it's convenient to have everything hidden away.

Has NOTHING to do with theft.  All about performance.

Show me a h/u that has a built in zone controller.  Then realize all 4000+ of my CD's are ripped onto digital media and streaming audio via internet is the only other source I use.  IMO headunits are rather useless.

 

My next car will also NOT have a headunit.  For that though I plan to integrate a touchscreen and a small windows 8 pc.  Even more crossover power than the miniDSP  And for way less money than a DD HU.