After comparing torres to the RE calc, I realized that it was off (re) by a lot more than I had expected. About an entire cubic foot off. So I think now would be a good time to build a new box. The main question I have is in reference to the "Port Top/Bottom" measurement, I'm not sure where the 4.50" comes from? I'm also not quite sure about how a slot port with no bend's would act since I don't think i've seen many people build one without bends. Main goal is to have the Hifonics brz15 laying face up and the port facing either the trunk or in the cabin, and to be removable (the box). Are there any real advantages to an inward facing port? I've heard that you would want your port facing the trunk so it can resonate through the body of the car but I don't know how big of a difference it really makes. 
With any kind of a guess i would say the box I built going by RE is almost 5 cubes. I think that might have something to do with it not hitting great lows? It responds best between 33 and 48.. I think I can get much more out of it but I want to do it as right as possible this time lol.

 

Your tuning and volume will still be off if you don't fill in the bottom boxes.

It should be around .15 cubes for the sub, 1 for extra baffle, and 3 for the number of common port walls

Updated, I think its reasonable to tune for about 37, Im not sure really how it will affect lows however

Ohh and baffle thickness needs to be .75 or it won't register the extra baffle.

To me 37 is way too high. I like 29-33 because of the music I listen too. I listen to rap/hip hop, decaf and dubstep. So it's best for me. What music do you listen too?

I enjoy a lot of music but lately ive been on decaf/djsnt and mostly rap. I tried for 33hz but I have no idea what i ended up with since I used RE Calc. 

32-33 would be a good tuning for you then.

Thanks, and as for my original question I think filling in whatever I had forgotten about may have fixed that? so that it is showing that there are no port sides? and it is just going to be one piece 11.5"x15.25"

I'm not really sure what you're saying. The port is going to have 3 common port walls. Look in the help tab on Torres and scroll to the bottom. It says what each thing means.

Torres is not the most accurate either. When making a sub box, it said that I had 4.75cu ft after displacement, tuned to 26.02Hz. When calculating the internal volume by hand however, there was only 4.48cu ft, and plugging this into WinISD with my port gave me a tuning of 26.17Hz. Tuning change doesn't matter too much but that's a lot of volume that came out of nowhere from Torres. (Yes when I calculated volume by hand I took into consideration the wood thickness, port volume, bracing, and sub displacement). Something must be slightly wrong with the formulas it uses, but it still gets you close. With another box as well, Torres says 3.8cu ft after displacement at 32.25, but by hand and with WinISD gets 4.06cu ft after displacement at 34.81Hz. 

Them calculators suck. Just use inside measurements for determining internal space, fuck all that port wall thickness and bs. Then just subtract for sub and bracing.

Edited August 23, 201312 yr by swift

Them calculators suck. Just use inside measurements for determining internal space, fuck all that port wall thickness and bs. Then just subtract for sub and bracing.

 

You should know by now it could say "Don't use this" and everybody will still try using it.

 

Seriously though guys it's not hard to do  W x L x H = (Divide this by 1728) then you get your cuFt

 

Torres sucks for knowing exact dimensions. Sure if you want a box that'll be off a few hz in overall tuning and probably on the smaller side then by all means keep using that shit. 

The newer version of torres (the one he is using) is a little closer. Making a sealed enclosure is easy. But honestly the majority of people are terrible at math and would probably be closer to right using a program versus doing it by hand. The tricky part is port displacement and most don't consider end correction. People don't seem to get measuring the port down the middle at all either.

I don't get a lot of it yet and this is only my second build but I feel a lot more accomplished this time. A friend of mine will be able to tell me what my peak is this sunday but Im really happy for now, especially being able to pull the box in/out of the car and it gets low really nice now with the 4" port as opposed to 2.5

Btw I didnt post a screenshot of my final decision, just went right ahead with it. According to the program the gross should be about 5.0ft^3 and the net is 3.9, aimed for 34hz. And silicone caulked it (i learned my lesson the hard way with regular caulk lol)

And when i decide to upgrade my speaker I feel like this box will be able to keep up, so i might end up even getting some carpet for it.

Edited August 24, 201312 yr by soslogeo

I don't get a lot of it yet and this is only my second build but I feel a lot more accomplished this time. A friend of mine will be able to tell me what my peak is this sunday but Im really happy for now, especially being able to pull the box in/out of the car and it gets low really nice now with the 4" port as opposed to 2.5

 

Nice improvement from the old enclosure, your designs will get better and better. It would look good with some carpet or black paint. And is the 134.7dB in your sig with your new enclosure? What frequency did you peak at? 

That number was with the previous enclosure, and Im not quite sure what I peak at yet havent tested it yet\.