I'm down for a few day for recovery from a surgery. So I'm brainstorming about my front stage.

 

99 2dr blazer is the vehicle. 

 

Right now I'm thinking about loading my pillars will multiple full range drivers. Not really looking for super ess que but half assed decent imaging and response. The sub stage is going to be decently loud so I need loud up front. 

 

Right now, I'm looking at 3-4 of these per pillar. I really like the look of these too. 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-352

 

Possibly four of these.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-226

 

Then I like the idea of 6 of these in each pillar but I need to make sure they'll fit

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-422

 

 

 

For the door, I'm looking mainly low power 8" subs 2-4 per depending price and power. I don't plan on going higher than 250hz,

 

Maybe two of these per door

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-1102

 

Or four of these. 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-335

 

orrrrr

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-484

 

 

All over the place. Just getting some of these ideas out of my head. 

Time to go back to the drawing board. What is with all the 3's?

Big preference to include the driver name with the link, most of us don't need links to know the driver.

What needs to be redrawn? All the 3's, why not? 

If you could truly setup a line array, I'd be fine with it but if you can't it'll be an acoustic mess.

If you could truly setup a line array, I'd be fine with it but if you can't it'll be an acoustic mess.

 

That's kind of what I want to do. I've only seen them in builds online. I haven't demo'd one in person yet. 

Well in car audio... 

You need to have them directly on top of each other. Good luck doing that in a car...which of course is the reason you've never seen it in car audio.

Time to give up then. 

Not give up, just change of plans.

You need to have them directly on top of each other. Good luck doing that in a car...which of course is the reason you've never seen it in car audio.

 

Do they have to be directly on top of each other or can they be directly side by side?  Or Maybe with 4 of them in a 2x2 grid patern?

You need to have them directly on top of each other. Good luck doing that in a car...which of course is the reason you've never seen it in car audio.

 

Do they have to be directly on top of each other or can they be directly side by side?  Or Maybe with 4 of them in a 2x2 grid patern?

Directly. Side by side would be the worst

 

You need to have them directly on top of each other. Good luck doing that in a car...which of course is the reason you've never seen it in car audio.

 

Do they have to be directly on top of each other or can they be directly side by side?  Or Maybe with 4 of them in a 2x2 grid patern?

 

Directly. Side by side would be the worst

 

Interesting.  Thank you for answering that.

The 100% vertical part is the killer. But there might be a way around it kind of. Though it wouldn't be a true line array. I'm going to keep digging in old articles. 

There is a way around everything, but that doesn't make it a good idea. Considering the sheer quantity of drivers you want to use your implied goals are somewhat straightforward as well and little low power drivers even with multiples won't yield what you want. Much better ways to give you what you need.

There is a way around everything, but that doesn't make it a good idea. Considering the sheer quantity of drivers you want to use your implied goals are somewhat straightforward as well and little low power drivers even with multiples won't yield what you want. Much better ways to give you what you need.

 

I'm open to suggestions. Like the title says, "brainstorming"

I'm tuned into this one, like I am most of these kinds of topics.  

 

It's nice to see the suggestions and trains of thought that go into driver selection for a given application.  I'll be doing something similar myself eventually as well since the current components in the Jimmy aren't cutting it and per the thread I made on that subject I'll be pulling the passive crossovers and running them active to see if I can get the benefits I am looking for from that move.  If not I have been contemplating a small full ranger plus midbass setup to replace the components with and since I won't need to keep up with near as much output it might work for me good enough.

 

Either way I'm tuned in to learn.

Not really looking for super ess que but half assed decent imaging and response. The sub stage is going to be decently loud so I need loud up front.

What sort of output requirement do you have?

Once you get to a certain level there is really only one solution if you want halfway decent imaging and response and it is to use a horn. Sounds like you have enough space in your doors to fill in below, but that will be by far the easiest method to get loud and maintain a semblance of SQ.

You'd need more than 20 little 3" full rangers to compete and once you have that many sources near so many reflecting planes you give up so much it makes no sense.

You'd need more than 20 little 3" full rangers to compete and once you have that many sources near so many reflecting planes you give up so much it makes no sense.

 

What do you think about the full range 4" drivers? I've heard the 7" versions which are vastly different in response. 

 

I'm trying to keep it around 150$ per side on highs or less(300 total). Roughly the same for the low end per side. 

 

Going for something looks different yet still yields good clarity. Stereo separation is important but not so much on "proper" imaging. Also trying to keep up with a sub stage that will hopefully get to 160. 

 

Power wise, I'll have my leviathan for power when I get it fixed. I may use a different amp to power the midbass though. 

Use one full range per side, easy solution:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fr89ex-3-full-range-8-ohm/

Keep it simple!

Use one full range per side, easy solution:

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fr89ex-3-full-range-8-ohm/

 

That's going to keep up with 4 18s on 10k?

What do you think about the full range 4" drivers? I've heard the 7" versions which are vastly different in response.

It is what I run in my office for a stereo, but I'd never run them in a car.

I'm trying to keep it around 150$ per side on highs or less(300 total). Roughly the same for the low end per side. 

Also trying to keep up with a sub stage that will hopefully get to 160.

Umm, yeah, going to fail there. If you want your front stage to "keep up" with your subs be prepared to spend as much money on them. Way harder to make midbass loud than sub-bass.

Going to leave you in compromise central if you are budget strapped. For your budget a standard comp set will prevail.

Going for something looks different

Not a good reason to do something. Put your goals for music first, not your ego.

Trying to keep it in that price range. This thread is going nowhere. 

10k watts of bass and you want something to keep up but only have $150? Of course the thread is going nowhere. You can't cheat Physics. For your budget a set of off the shelf components will be the smallest compromise.