I don't want to run rear speakers, and I was told here that 6's wouldn't keep up with what I was running, so I thought I'd try to fit 8's in the front doors. I remember hearing that someone here had done it to their blazer without pods, but I don't remember how they said they did it. I would run a pair of Crescendo PWX-8's and a pair of their tweeters. If the eight had trouble reaching up high enough, I could put a pair of 4's or 4x6's in the dash, in the factory locations to help with vocals. 

If you can't mount the 8's on axis, they probably will have a dip in response with pretty much any tweeter...

 

Do you still have your sub or did that get messed up in your accident?

I'm going to be installing 8" Peerless SLS drivers in the front doors of my '01 Jimmy.  I'm simply going to be building a new custom baffle to mount them to the door and cut a little larger hole in the door card.

 

That being said I'll be running mine as dedicated midbass drivers and not higher than 300hz.  

My BTL survived

Could I do eights in the doors, 4's or maybe 5.25's in the dash, then tweeters/horns?

Like I (we) said 8's are possible, they just need to be kept low in frequency (Alton is going to use his under 300Hz) or be on-axis, which is tough to do. 

 

With a dynamic cone driver, as you increase circumference you increase directivity...  So the bigger they are the more the output is focused on the driver axis. 

 

You can do a 3-way with other drivers, but this also makes things more complicated.

 

If you are going to have BTL in a big box with lots of power there probably aren't a lot of front stages that can keep up.

 

My advice would be to stick with a 2-way, use quality drivers, see the project through and decide for yourself if you need more.  The most important part will be seeing this through...

Would pwx 6.5's and coaxial 4x6's screech hard enough? I'll get a suitable 4ch to power them.

I could do the mids and highs passive, with the eights active as midbass, on a crescendo 1100.4 i think I could get fives to work in the dash cutouts too.

Edited January 13, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

What are the best parts of the door to deaden to improve midbass response?

Would pwx 6.5's and coaxial 4x6's screech hard enough? I'll get a suitable 4ch to power them.

Would they be loud? Maybe. Would they sound good? I can't imagine any way they could be made to do so. I highly doubt there's a 4x6 on the market that could keep up with the output of everything else anyway.

I could do the mids and highs passive, with the eights active as midbass, on a crescendo 1100.4 i think I could get fives to work in the dash cutouts too.

Passive crossovers on such a setup will never cut it. A proper passive crossover will not be easy for someone without the right experience to design and build successfully.

What are the best parts of the door to deaden to improve midbass response?

The best improvement to the midbasses will come with a proper baffle and separation of the back wave from the front. I was able to get midbass you could feel in your chest and back from the 6.5" mids from the Bravox components with standard 25% coverage of CLD, a good layering of CCF and the custom baffles I built for the doors. I still have more CCF and some MLV from SDS to install in the doors as well.

I'm not sure about keeping up with the kind of substage you're considering but the FaitalPro 3" full ranges I bought and played with could get ear bleedingly loud with stunning clarity. They reminded me a lot of a set of horns. Their only issue would be that they would have to be aimed on axis to do you any good which would require building fiberglass pods.

No matter what you decide to do in separate drivers running them active is going to require at least the processing power of an active capable head unit. The Clarion CZ702 does a pretty good job, especially for the average $150 price tag it carries at most places.

I'm still thinking you should come down sometime and check out my Jimmy and some of the speakers and setup I've been playing with lately. It's kind of a long trip but I think it might help lend some better understanding to what we're trying to explain.

stick to passives. hobbling together shitty drivers like those crescendo will never sound good. 

Suggestions?

I do know that on the "TrailBlazers" you can find the Bose adapters for the doors to make them a factory location for a 8" driver in each front door ... I'm thinking that they upgrade the rear doors to 6.5" drivers in the rear doors also ...

Now I'm not sure if its ie the same for your vehicle ... But it could be something you could check out and make things a little easier ...

Please refresh my memory ... That particular vehicle have factory dash speakers ??? 4x6" drivers maybe ???

Talking about an S-10 Blazer 4dr SUV

I'm stuck in illinois for court til june.

Edited January 13, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

For the time being, how about this, 

Two pairs of http://www.parts-express.com/faitalpro-6fe100-6-professional-midrange-midbass-woofer-8-ohm--294-1150, front and back, and when it's warmer, and when I have more time, and the supplies, I can take the rears and build pods for two in each front door. 

I'll also run tweeters on the dash. I had alpine components in the front before, the midrange was nice, but the midbass was lacking by far, and the tweeters didn't seem as clear as I'd like. I'll also be getting a Zed Mikro to power the doors. Not sure on the tweeters yet. 

Edited January 15, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

PWX's are an awful choice.

FE6 is not an exciting driver and NEEDS a ported enclosure

I realize you want to get loud on a budget, but as with ALL installations of ANY driver knowing the parameters and restrictions of the install space is step one. Processing if it is determined doesn't suck to know either.

 

Please refresh my memory ... That particular vehicle have factory dash speakers ??? 4x6" drivers maybe ???

Talking about an S-10 Blazer 4dr SUV

I'm stuck in illinois for court til june.

Yes ... what stock speaker configuration is in your vheicle ?? I'm thinking you can find upgraded driver brackets for your doors if that particular vehicle had the Bose upgrade option ...

... and best of luck with the court thing ...

each door has a 6.5" mount, no upgrade as far as stereo, maybe on an envoy or a bravada.

Edited January 16, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

Do you have any suggestions? I can't modify the doors til summer, no time or tools but I can at least pick the right drivers. I just don't want to have to settle with some walmart coaxials in the mean time.

I would wait till summer when you can do it the right way.

I would wait till summer when you can do it the right way.

 

I'd say the same, but 22w rms per door will not mean anything to a BTL.

Edited January 16, 201411 yr by SpeakerBoy

I would wait till summer when you can do it the right way.

 

I'd say the same, but 22w rms per door will not mean anything to a BTL.

Turn the gain down.

PWX's will get loud as piss and sound decent when the subs are playing which my guess will be fine for you. When the subs are turned off they really do not sound all that good. Not sure what subs your running or how many but unless you are "loud" there is no need running them. Running IB in the doors will have almost NO midbass

Running a fully loaded ufo btl 18

It that is helpful makes a situation more pleasant or more easy

I would wait till summer when you can do it the right way.

 

I'd say the same, but 22w rms per door will not mean anything to a BTL.

Ha, if you trust your h/u output to be that...you make me laugh.

Either way, if you have no time just amp the stock speakers and cross them over high enough to where they don't struggle. Gain them conservatively and do something right in the end.

"keeping up" by my definition with your sub will require A LOT of work. Getting 130dB out of a front stage is NOT trivial.

I realize you just want to hear the music. If it is temporary, be smart and just grab something used you can offload later for what you pay.