Is there any benifit do deadening an enclosure? I have thought about using a product called "green glue" sandwiched between two layers of mdf. It is intended for use between drywall and it is amazing! I used it in my condo and do not jear the neighbors at all anymore. It converts sound energy to heat and disperses it through the material.

http://www.greengluecompany.com

Spend your money to sound deaden the car.

 

I don't see any advantage in doing a properly built box.

dont waste your money or time, if the box the properly built and braced there is no benefit to that product at all

Spend your money to sound deaden the car.

 

I don't see any advantage in doing a properly built box.

Yea there's nothin' really there that would help your enclosure.

Deadening the enclosure walls will help SPL by cutting down on the cancellation caused by cabinet emanations.   How much?  It depends on how the enclosure is designed.

 

But, along with what others have said, you can reap better returns in overall performance by deadening the car.

 

For what it is worth, I deaden all my enclosures.  I also have used constrained layer materials (similar to what you are mentioning).  I used to build smaller full range speaker cabinets (almost 20 years ago) with a product called Dynaboard.  It was a layer of Dynamat sandwiched between two 3/8"-1/2" sheets of MDF.  It was extremely dead and made fantastic cabinet walls.  It was just very expensive and I figured out how to get similar performance by proper bracing and dampening.

 

What a lot of people don't understand about bracing and cabinet construction is that bracing doesn't remove any resonant energy, it just moves the energy into a higher frequency range.  When the range is high enough the enclosure walls can dampen out the energy, it does this really well with added dampening material...

Thanks for the replies. I had thought that bracing would only alter the tone of the resonance. I am just so impressed with the product I wanted to try it for other purposes. I may still do it a tube is less then $20 so it is worth a shot. I will be soundproofing my wood shop as well so I may have some kicking around. I will be dynamatting my cabinet saw and enclosing my compressor in a box with a automotive muffler for air intake. I meed to try and avoid noise complaints

You would gain more by sanding and smoothing out any and all transistions inside the enclosure.  Deadening the layers won't do anything.  Just brace properly, I prefer steel. 

You would gain more by sanding and smoothing out any and all transistions inside the enclosure. Deadening the layers won't do anything. Just brace properly, I prefer steel.

As in using a threaded rod, correct?

No, I use solid steel round bar.

Doesn't really matter what it is as long as it has strength. I'd worry much more about lively panels than smoothing transitions. Of course what you do depends on your goals.