Hey there guys just needed some advice on my electrical. I have a 110amp stock alternator and i am running 2 12s skar vvs off a sundown saz2500 @ 2ohms so there getting 1200 rms. i will be running xs flex 0 gauge with a odyessy pc 1500 underhood. I am also running a skar 80.4 with front/rear skar coaxils. Wanted to know if my electrical is sufficent and another question was that using my sundown amp at 2 ohms, will that be less stress on my electrical rather then 1ohm? Thank you

Yes 2 ohm load is less stressful on the amplifier AND the cars electrical. Now the only way to know if it's sufficient is with testing. You shouldn't have issues but dial gains back if necessary

I will be getting the system installed in a week or two hopefully its enough. I will also be installing a stiner volt meter so i should be able to keep an eye on it

Nice choice of Battery : ) you would benifit from a H/0 alternator, your case is similar to mine in that you are drawing twice or more the amps off of your battery than your alternator can easily replace, meaning your alt is behind the the curve when it comes to your electrical.  1/0 gauge is always going to be best when running a length to the rear of your car. 

 

I would recommend that you check how much voltage drainage you get at maximum volume that you listen to when your car IS running on a heavy bass note...I did that same thing yesterday and noticed it went from 14.4v straight to 12, and then started creeping down further on the first strong and long bass note, I have a stock 90 amp and a group 65-PC1750 Odessey.

 

Keep in mind I am only running 1 12" sub at 1600watts RMS.  We both could surely benifit from a H/O alternator, and possibly even a battery in the trunk...it really depends on if your battery is dipping below 12- 12.6 volts-that is never good for what we want.

Edited March 20, 201411 yr by THX_Elite

Hmm. Thanks for the input. I am hoping that i dont need to get an h/o alot or even a second battery since i didnt wanna add/spend more money nd stay within stock electrical. I was running this saz2500 @1 ohms on a 15' ssa zcon before this setup, nd i had a h/o alt 220amps nd a yellow optima and hc kinetic 2400 in the trunk and my voltage would still considerably drop even at half volume or so. So thats the reason i dont wanna go through all the trouble of adding extra stuff nd try to keep it to a minimum

you might find that even with some voltage dropping you will be ok with leisure listening even with some short loud sessions.  You are running at 2 ohms so the drop should not be quite as bad as you experienced before.  It helps if you have the big 3, as in upgraded grounds from battery to engine and chassis and from alt to battery. The big 3 makes a huuuge difference.

I do like your choices in batteries, I went with the diehard platinum/marine front AND rear with a Mechman 270a.. Issue output is trash and I wish they would've advertised it. They claim half the output at idle but there version of the is between 799-850rpm on the dash .. Might have someone adjust the pulley on it at some point.

I saw no issues when running my bc3500 at 2ohms and my mbq 150.4

I do like your choices in batteries, I went with the diehard platinum/marine front AND rear with a Mechman 270a.. Issue output is trash and I wish they would've advertised it. They claim half the output at idle but there version of the is between 799-850rpm on the dash .. Might have someone adjust the pulley on it at some point.

I saw no issues when running my bc3500 at 2ohms and my mbq 150.4

That is my main concern in picking a company for H/O alternators, mine NEEDS to be built with the higher output being at low rpm's/idle...Maniac Electrical Motors assured me that outcome.  But I am still trying to speak with Singer Alternators.

I was uneducated when I picked the alt and never asked but after purchasing and digging I realized that was the issue..

Circumstances at the tune did not allow me the luxury of sending the unit back and paying the mechanic to do the work and send it back. It was very frustrating

I was uneducated when I picked the alt and never asked but after purchasing and digging I realized that was the issue..

Circumstances at the tune did not allow me the luxury of sending the unit back and paying the mechanic to do the work and send it back. It was very frustrating

I could imagine so!  That is why I am trying my best to be patient about jumping on an alternator.  I just checked my batt's voltage with the car off and no draw after bumping a little bit and it was right at 12v, so I know I need to do something about it sometime soon

Just got an email from Micheal at Singer...this could be good...However it is going to cost a nice chunk o' change!

~440 with lifetime warranty, seems odd going that way since my car is only worth 800 tops LMAO, but hey, I already got 2 grand into the stereo so I guess...why not? right?  ..lol

Just got an email from Micheal at Singer...this could be good...However it is going to cost a nice chunk o' change!

~440 with lifetime warranty, seems odd going that way since my car is only worth 800 tops LMAO, but hey, I already got 2 grand into the stereo so I guess...why not? right?  ..lol

lmao I understand I only payed $600 for my car and have almost 3k in car audio