So was wondering if this box design was good for spl( stole the pic from smd froum )

http://i1352.photobucket.com/albums/q641/antoinez28/1571462d541ddd32176d702a8041523f_zps241afbf8.jpg

The only thing I will be using 3/4 mdf and the top of the box will be 2 inch thick plus bracing.

All depends on subs and power and what you want. No way to tell you. Anyways you should have a custom box to your system not a random design off a website.

This was taken off SMD the person has 2 orion hcca 15.2, I have 1 crescendo bc 2000, but going to be running 2 when it gets here at 1 ohm per sub the port area is around 124 cubic in and it's tune to or around 33 hz. And the box will fit my tahoe perfect if I built it like that

Not a valid question man.

 

Every box is different for every vehicle which is altered by subs and power and experience and fusing and do you see where I'm going with this?

For spl I figured tuning would be much higher.

I'm no competitor either

Ok just want to be lead in the right path so wat fo you need to know so I can plan/built the right box for my set up

Make it custom to you!!

For a box well need to know your goals, what music you play or tuning you want, amount of power, vehicle.

This will make it custom to you and your vehicle.

fyi,

 

a box for spl is, as an example. 2cubes for a single 15, single 12" port tuned at 47hz. 

 

lol, doubt this is what you're looking for.

2005 tahoe

Area to work with 48Lx 32w x 22h

Head unit is a clarion vz401

Audiocontrol 3.2 eq

2 orion hccA 15.2 the black ones

2 crescendo audio bc2000 one I have and one on order

2 crescendo logic bat one I have one on order

2 runs of 0 guage - and +

Stock alt

Copper bus bar

I play a lot of hip hop and r&b looking to tune around 30hz-35z

This was taken off SMD the person has 2 orion hcca 15.2, I have 1 crescendo bc 2000, but going to be running 2 when it gets here at 1 ohm per sub the port area is around 124 cubic in and it's tune to or around 33 hz. And the box will fit my tahoe perfect if I built it like that

 

I haven't done any math at all, but just from previous experience and a little guessing there's no way the enclosure you posted is tuned to 33hz.  I would also question if the port would act properly being farther from the rear of the enclosure than it's width but not enough to not completely rule out it's interaction.  It's equivalent to having a 4" wide port on the side of an enclosure instead of the center that ended 5" from the back wall.  The port will still try to act as though that bend at the back corner was part of the length but it wouldn't be the exact same as being added to the port length because it's wider where it opens into the enclosure.

 

Even if the questionable port length didn't cause an issue I'd be very surprised if the tuning is even close to 33hz AND even if it is I agree with the others on building one custom to your application.  You're in good hands with it and seemed to have provided the right information I just wanted to provide you with better details as why not to bother using the design you found.

We'll can somebody help me with a cut sheet for a sub box with me goals and set up

If nobody else will I can, but it sounded to me like Enrique (Bassink) is on the case.

So i want to build a l ported box with 48l x 28w x 20h. How big do i have to make the port so it could be around 30hz

I responded to your PM.

I thought I'd share the design I threw together for Antoine's pair of 15" Orion HCCA's.

So, it's almost completely done. I have a little more work to do on the cut out information for the bracing and to finish the drawing. Which, BTW, what were your intentions for finishing the enclosure? Carpet, paint, bed liner? What colors? I can make the final drawing make a great representation of the final product if you would like me to.

The design should land the tuning right in the 30hz neighborhood with a little over 4 cu.ft. NET volume per sub measuring 48" W x 30" D x 20" H. Orion's manual and information for the sub is a little light so there's not a lot of good information to go on from their documentation. I made the hole in the window brace for the magnet on the sub 12" in diameter. If that's not large enough there's more than enough space there to open that hole up. The frame bracing underneath the window brace is also sized the same way so it would have to be modified to match the hole in the window brace. Same with the depth of the sub. Most of the numbers I could find on the sub showed it having just under 12" of depth. There should be PLENTY of space between the sub and the frame braces under the sub/window brace to clear but again, if there's not then just adjust it accordingly. That's the one real problem with not having the sub's I'm designing for in my hands, I can't verify for myself what all the dimensions/measurements are.

Here's all the captures of the build of the enclosure including a cutsheet (minus the upcoming bracing of course). As soon as I know if you want to see it completely finished as you're intending to do so I'll get those and the bracing cuts to you asap. I can email you the sketchup models as well so you can pull them apart to see the design and how all the parts go together as well. Just let me know what your email addy is.

Onto the good stuff!!

Just let me know if there's any part of the design I need to go deeper into or explain.

Alright, here's a bunch of dimensions on the bracing plus some exploded views of the basic way its assembled in the enclosure and such. Also, be sure to give me your email address and I can send the sketchup drawings themselves to you. With them you can spin it around, dissect sections and things like that to get a better understanding of how the assembly goes.

Here's the dimensions on the frame brace. The long one goes the width of the subwoofer box part of the enclosure. The two shorter pieces are centered up along it's length on each side. You'll need to cut out two of the long parts and four of the short ones.

Here's the dimensions on the window brace. All of the parts of the brace are 1" wide and as mentioned before if the hole in the center isn't large enough to fit the magnet then you can make it larger without any problems. You'll need to cut out two of these, just flip one over for the other side.

Here are the dimensions for the double baffle supports. They simply stand up lined up with the supports for the circle cutout in the center of the window brace up against the walls of the enclosure. You'll need to cut out eight of these, four for each side.

Here are some exploded views of how the bracing is assembled with dimensions.

Let me know if you need any more detailed information on the bracing.

As I mentioned before, here are the pictures of basically what it could look like when you have it all done.

Wow ! that is a serious work.
The bracing is too nice to hide it in the box
OP, you're a lucky guy.

No kidding, I'd want some plexi in that thing to show off the guts.

That box design looks so sick!! Nice job like always Alton.

*drools*

Nice man