from my readings it was mentioned that remote turn on leads should be fused at .5A on all installs. is this standard practice today or was this directed at older decks? i have just never seen or heard of this until i read it.

when using a LOC converter (factory head unit to power amps) i read it should be installed behind the deck. is there any reason against installing it off rear speakers in the trunk or else where in the car? assuming what ever speaker outputs you are going to are the right type e.g. not crossed over from the factory deck at an incorrect frequency for your application.

edit: question about gains. when setting amp gains i was told that i should max out the bass control on the head unit. that is to say not loudness, bass boost or eq but if the sub has a dedicated sub volume control i should set that to max setting and then turn the deck up to 3/4 to set the amp gains. my thought was that this would put the deck into clipping but i was told this is the only way to get full power out of the head unit when setting sub gains. anyone know anything about this?

second edit: i have heard of spade terminals but never seen them. i read that they should be used every time you have an amp that accepts bare wire into its terminal. how many people actually do this? i have been wondering for a while what the best way is to prevent strands of wire from arcing out and this does seem to be a solution. anyone have a better one?

Edited April 7, 201411 yr by ncc74656

from my readings it was mentioned that remote turn on leads should be fused at .5A on all installs. is this standard practice today or was this directed at older decks? i have just never seen or heard of this until i read it.

when using a LOC converter (factory head unit to power amps) i read it should be installed behind the deck. is there any reason against installing it off rear speakers in the trunk or else where in the car? assuming what ever speaker outputs you are going to are the right type e.g. not crossed over from the factory deck at an incorrect frequency for your application.

edit: question about gains. when setting amp gains i was told that i should max out the bass control on the head unit. that is to say not loudness, bass boost or eq but if the sub has a dedicated sub volume control i should set that to max setting and then turn the deck up to 3/4 to set the amp gains. my thought was that this would put the deck into clipping but i was told this is the only way to get full power out of the head unit when setting sub gains. anyone know anything about this?

second edit: i have heard of spade terminals but never seen them. i read that they should be used every time you have an amp that accepts bare wire into its terminal. how many people actually do this? i have been wondering for a while what the best way is to prevent strands of wire from arcing out and this does seem to be a solution. anyone have a better one?

 

I'll take a stab at these, lol.

 

1.  Fusing is important no matter what you're dealing with.  I've never used any external fusing on the remote lead, but that's not saying it isn't a good idea.

 

2.  I can't see where it would make any difference where the hell the LOC was installed.  Too simple of a device for it to give a damn IMO.  I would also never use one so that's a factor in my response.

 

3.  Why in god's name would anyone care whether or not they were getting the "FULL" signal out of the HU or not.  Set the EQ, crossovers, etc. to what sounds the best to you and then set the gains accordingly.  I don't care if you have a HU that is capable of outputting a 12V signal.  Dynamics in the music alone will not ever allow you to use it all 100% of the time so why would it matter?  

 

4.  Never seen spade terminals?  You mean as in never used them right?  There would be absolutely no advantage to using them on an amp that has set screw terminals.  Anything at all on the ends of the wires would only be a hassle on those kinds of connections.  Now, if a person is worried about shorting stuff with stray strands of wire one of two things come to mind.  First would be to make sure you do a good clean job of inserting the wire so that there are no stray strands (seems like a no brainer to me).  Second would be to tin the ends of the wire with solder.

 

 

 

 

That's just my .02 woth.

the screw down terminals seem to always present some degree of fraying regardless of how hard you try to prevent them. amps like kicker do have a bit of an over lap to help prevent it but amps like audiobhan, crunch, boss, sony, ect. dont have such devices and its a pita to try and keep the wires all together. perhaps i will try the tinning approach.