Hello all,

 

My current system consists of all Kicker mids/highs in an '04 Accord.  I have an Alpine MRV-M500 at 2 ohms connected to a Polk DXi DVC 12" in a sealed, rear-firing custom enclosure that measures around 1 cu ft (maybe a little more).  Listen to all kinds of music, love heavy bass but am realistic with expectations from only 500 watts.

 

I smoked the voice coil on the Polk within 4 months of installing it.  It was rated for 360 watts rms and I got it in a Best Buy deal of the day sale for $40, so no big loss.  I'm searching for a 4ohm dvc sub that will easily handle 500 watts from the Alpine sub amp without burning another voice coil AND will be happy in that small sealed enclosure of around a cubic foot AND won't break my budget.  I'd really like to spend less than $100, but would consider going up to $160, which is what I can get a scratch & dent SA-12 for.

 

Here's what I've been considering so far:

• Sundown E-series 12" in 4 ohm DVC
• Soundqubed HDS12 (LOVE the cost although I hear they're not happy in small, sealed enclosures)
• American Bass XD 12
• Power Acoustik MOFO 12 (seems kind of cheesy but curious if anyone's used it)
• Soundstream Rubicon 124
• Alpine Type S
• Fosgate Punch Stage 3
• Sundown SA-12 (very top end of cost spectrum)

So,  which would be my best boom for my buck?  Any other brands I should consider?

I have personally had the sa 12s and american bass xd 12s both nice subs and you will be pleased with either of the 2 especially since your used to the polk sub.. you may want to roll with a ported box though

Edited April 7, 201411 yr by ohio45113

Wish I have heard more of the listed subs to give an accurate reply.

Wish I have heard more of the listed subs to give an accurate reply.

in his case I believe used equipment is his friend. its hard to be on such a tight budget and get impressive gear.

craigslist ftw!

 

Wish I have heard more of the listed subs to give an accurate reply.

in his case I believe used equipment is his friend. its hard to be on such a tight budget and get impressive gear.

craigslist ftw!

 

Considering my experience with used woofers, I really want to buy new.  Also, this is not a "save up until I can afford something better" situation.  I'm just setting a strict budget for myself to limit my total system cost.  I'm only pushing 500 watts so I'm not in the market for a $300 sub.

Power handling does not always equate to price.  The SSA Dcon is close to your budget.

from your description why not go ported with a dcon or sa12? 

Aaron beat me too it!! I was gonna say dcon lol but it is a little out of your budget although I think it would be extremely worth it.

I have a Gcon I used for 2 months sealed  before my Zcons came if you have any interest in it.

from your description why not go ported with a dcon or sa12?

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I want to keep my sealed enclosure as it is a custom wall in the front of my trunk which doesnt intrude into the trunk space and preserves access to the spare tire. I never considered SSA because the dcon had too low of a power rating and the gcon was too expensive.

I think sonic is trying to get rid of their old stock type Rs for 100 a pop

I want to keep my sealed enclosure as it is a custom wall in the front of my trunk which doesnt intrude into the trunk space and preserves access to the spare tire. I never considered SSA because the dcon had too low of a power rating and the gcon was too expensive.

Fuck the power rating, give it around 300 rms and it'll blow you away.

I want to keep my sealed enclosure as it is a custom wall in the front of my trunk which doesnt intrude into the trunk space and preserves access to the spare tire. I never considered SSA because the dcon had too low of a power rating and the gcon was too expensive.

Don't eliminate or purchase a sub because of one spec.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8143-ref-tm124-12-tidal-audio-subwoofer-dual-4-ohm-oem-by-image-dynamics.aspx

 

I win.

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars.  I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current.  Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this.

 

I want to keep my sealed enclosure as it is a custom wall in the front of my trunk which doesnt intrude into the trunk space and preserves access to the spare tire. I never considered SSA because the dcon had too low of a power rating and the gcon was too expensive.

Don't eliminate or purchase a sub because of one spec.

 

I'm just a little gunshy about power ratings since Polk denies warranty claims if you gave the amp more than it's max RMS power,which I did.  I'm not one to lie to the manufacturer...I mean, I knew I was giving the Polk more power than what it was rated for.  I'd just prefer to use something rated higher than my amp to preserve warranty coverage.

 

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars.  I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current.  Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this.

 

 

 

This is all exactly what you NEVER want to do.  I'm surprised it made it 4 months.  Holy shit!

 

 

I want to keep my sealed enclosure as it is a custom wall in the front of my trunk which doesnt intrude into the trunk space and preserves access to the spare tire. I never considered SSA because the dcon had too low of a power rating and the gcon was too expensive.

Don't eliminate or purchase a sub because of one spec.

 

I'm just a little gunshy about power ratings since Polk denies warranty claims if you gave the amp more than it's max RMS power,which I did.  I'm not one to lie to the manufacturer...I mean, I knew I was giving the Polk more power than what it was rated for.  I'd just prefer to use something rated higher than my amp to preserve warranty coverage.

 

If you smoke a coil, warranty won't cover it. Even if you are running 400 on a 1K driver.  If that coil is smoked, it's not a warranty issue.

 

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars.  I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current.  Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this.

 

. . . .  And. . . . Wait, what?!

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467

 

dayton ho

 

not sure how this would go sealed. you should probably model a couple of the options and see how they perform for your enclosure

 

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars.  I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current.  Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this.

 

forgot the bank of flux capacitors. 

 

 

I'm more concerned by the fact you smoked the coil of your current subwoofer within 4 months of installing it. $40 or not there's no reason it should have went out so quick outside of user error. Fix your install/tuning issue or you're just going to be in the market for another sub in another 4 months when you blow this replacement and completely blow your "strict system budget" by continually replacing subs.

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars.  I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current.  Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this.

 

. . . .  And. . . . Wait, what?!

 

 

LOL, good catch

 

I'm fooling, no tape deck, gain on amp is set properly, no AC current., etc.  Wow, do people really do stuff like that?

You would be surprised