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Featured Replies

  • Author

Looking good, get some bracing in there and she will be stout.

Going brace with 2" dowels and still have to cut and place corner braces. Still debating on running a full port divider down middle or a partial. Made the box a little bigger than design. 50" X 20" X 38".
Looks good man! I think you'll be happy with the birch decision.

I probably would try to avoid putting a brace in the port as it'll increase turbulence in there. Maybe just double up the side walls of the port and round over the ends.

I was worry about the rear of the port. Because they will firing into each other except in the center at rear where I will add a deflection (triangle). Double up on port walls, that will be with birch ply. Lol. I used a total of three sheets of BB for the box already.

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  • The one sub failure would be the only reason to not do a shared chamber. I wouldn't base and box I was building on any prefab box ever, theres a reason they all suck.    It looks like you are on the r

  • bulldogfreddy
    bulldogfreddy

    Sexterra and Leedoggs you both have valid points. Sexterra I was leaning more towards SQ with low tuning and use wood dowels like you said. Also, do you think that pocket hole jig will be better than

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  • Author

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Got fine thread kreg screws instead of coarse thread. I have exchange them so I can finish the back, top, corner bracing and parallel dowels. I see that a lot people orders being shipped out and hope I am in at least the next batch.

Edited by bulldogfreddy

Good work so far man! Hope you get the subs soon!

  • Author

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Don't know if I should put less angle on the triangle

  • Author

Do anybody think I should make the back port divider longer or will this be OK ^.

  • Author

Double post

Edited by bulldogfreddy

I would make it where the end of each side of the port is half the distance away from the "triangle as the port is wide. . If that's makes wines how I said it lol

Looks good!  whats the tuning?

  • Author

I would make it where the end of each side of the port is half the distance away from the "triangle as the port is wide. . If that's makes wines how I said it lol

I worry about building up turbulence by making it that close and wondering about displacement I will lose also. Have to draw it out and take a hard look at it.

I would make it where the end of each side of the port is half the distance away from the "triangle as the port is wide. . If that's makes wines how I said it lol

I worry about building up turbulence by making it that close and wondering about displacement I will lose also. Have to draw it out and take a hard look at it.

How far is the end of the port to the rear wall? I usually do that but that's when the port goes along the back wall

  • Author

26" from the front baffle, so that is about 11.25" from the back wall. Now about 8" with the deflector in place.

  • Author

Will start on beauty plate and amp rack until subs ship.

  • Author

Looks good!  whats the tuning?

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Didn't like the turn out with the stain and went back to the original plan. Still have to bed lined the bottom.

  • Author

Going have to finish everything up since the subs will be here today or tomorrow. Can't wait to hear these subs.

Heck yeah!  Those Zcons look ready to do work!  Love the blue BTW....

  • Author

Heck yeah!  Those Zcons look ready to do work!  Love the blue BTW....

Thanks bro. Finally got the box in after fighting with it. I went with stainless steel hurricane nuts (T - nuts). Will try working on beauty plate and reposition amps. Thinking about moving batteries inside center console.

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  • Author

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Painted the back side with bedliner and have to prime and paint the front later. Should I paint blue like the box or bedliner black?

Edited by bulldogfreddy

Cool-  I have to figure mine out next hitch.

  • Author

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First test today and I had to hold on. Not even half power and was crazy with windows up. With just front windows halfway down was stupid. Lol. Thanks SSA. Still working on trim plate color.

Edited by bulldogfreddy

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