Trucks looks so good! The doors were done great. Are you going to port the Xcon or just keep it a sealed setup?

Thanks, it does get compliments every once in a while. I have a box waiting for it, just want to get a couple more hours in on the sealed box so I can compare. Box is net 3.5ft^3 @ 30hz with 45in^2 of port. It was already built, it was a fair price, and it is right in the middle of the recommended specs for the sub so I snagged it.

 

It also came with a skar vvx-15v1 in it that I was playing with til the xcon came back. For a 600wrms sub it held it together pretty well for being wired at 2ohm on a BRZ2400.1D. Of course, my nose was on high alert, though I only had a faint smell once and that was just after I shut it down. Looking forward to the XCON in that ported box for sure.

y u no port?

y u no port?

 

Did you not read the post he made right before you. He wants to give his sealed box a few more listening hours before he switches to the ported box he already owns. Reading is fundamental

Trucks looks so good! The doors were done great. Are you going to port the Xcon or just keep it a sealed setup?

Thanks, it does get compliments every once in a while. I have a box waiting for it, just want to get a couple more hours in on the sealed box so I can compare. Box is net 3.5ft^3 @ 30hz with 45in^2 of port. It was already built, it was a fair price, and it is right in the middle of the recommended specs for the sub so I snagged it.

 

It also came with a skar vvx-15v1 in it that I was playing with til the xcon came back. For a 600wrms sub it held it together pretty well for being wired at 2ohm on a BRZ2400.1D. Of course, my nose was on high alert, though I only had a faint smell once and that was just after I shut it down. Looking forward to the XCON in that ported box for sure.

Box isn't bad spec wise so it'll do. You're going to hear a big difference going from sealed to ported. Enjoy your Xcon man, it's my favorite sub besides the ethos.

I finally got around to finishing off the doors. While it did help a bit compared to just sticking speakers in the doors, I wasn't blown away by some night and day difference. Now comes tweeter placement and 2-way active tuning. Any pointers in the tuning department for an active noob would be greatly appreciated. Kinda wingin it right now and it's getting better, but getting that solid center stage seems to be too elusive for me right now.

Stop worrying about the stage. That is the LAST thing I'd think about. Frequency response should always take precedence. Staging is going to be tough with those drivers in that spacing anyways. Getting a midrange that actually digs would help now. You treated the doors nicely, now they deserve some drivers that can put your efforts on the doors to use.

Start flat. Play with all phase options 1st. Then start eq'ing out nasty peaks by lowering the eq at those areas. I like to acoustically measure t/a and correct, but that isn't trivial.

Start flat. Play with all phase options 1st. Then start eq'ing out nasty peaks by lowering the eq at those areas. I like to acoustically measure t/a and correct, but that isn't trivial.

I'm sure I'll be changing drivers eventually, but I'd like to get comfortable tuning with what I have before throwing more money at it.

As for measuring t/a acoustically, how accurate is the auto t/a in the 80prs. I've played with it and it was really close to physical measurement in terms of inches. Could that be used then just turn off the auto eq and set phase, xover, etc. myself? It seems to peak really bad in the 1khz-3khz range. Other than that, my ears aren't good enough to find anything else.

Auto anything on the 88prs was horseshit, can't imagine it being better. The one thing it should be able to measure is t/a though.

Yes, that's what I was getting at. Would it be better to use physical measurements or the auto t/a feature? I would do my own eq and such.

Try both and compare. I'd isolate only Left and only right and then together.

I'll have to play around some more, it seems like it's a never ending obsession now.

 

On another note...

I switched to the ported box and the new found lower frequencies are tripping me out. This thing is digging deep.

 

Time to make some dust...

 

I was swapping out the ID XS65 for a set of Seas CA18RNX today and found something quite interesting. I had been complaining about the XS making a strange irritating sound and occasional scratchy coil noises in another thread. I thing I found the problem. These cones are literally cracking/tearing and I have not had them very long. I could see them overheating with 180w, but this seems a little more interesting. The two pics are one of each mid.

 

 

I didn't take any progress pics as a speaker swap is pretty straight forward. Here is the finished product for today.

 

 

It didn't take much work at all to get them sounding pretty good. I do have a gnarly peak at 2500hz that is right in the middle of two of my eq points. Oh the woes of a 16 band graphic eq. Other than that I am very happy with the switch. They are getting half the power the IDs were and are significantly louder in the mid range. Mid bass got a slight bump, though with a little more power and some play time I am sure they will do nicely. Thanks again to all who helped in the other thread, job well done!

 

First time with the Jasper circle guide, made the rings a breeze. If you have a router, you should have a circle guide.

Edited July 21, 201411 yr by hdrox88

Great looking drivers man, sucks to see the cones on the IDs started going bad. Taking a look at those Seas now myself.

It sucks for sure, makes for a neat paper weight tho! When I would swap from stock to aftermarket speakers I would hear things in the music never heard with the stock speakers. Swapping from the ID to the Seas, I am having that experience all over again. The control and clarity is great!

Have you contacted id yet? I'm curious to hear what they have to say.

Nice build and good looking rig.

More than likely nothing when Eric was still working their and they had the forum up they would charge little to nothing to replace these mids. Once the new owners joined things changed at ID, the forum was taken down and now they dont honor their products anymore. Last time I checked it was better to buy them new again rather then sending them in.

Honda, Thanks for the comments, I have always liked the 99-07 GM trucks and SUVs. They are pretty easy to work on in my experience as well.

I had a xs28 tweet fail on me and when I contacted ID about it they sent me a new one, no charge. I'll send them the same photos of the mids and see what comes of it.

The ID's are a joke in comparison anyways.

 

Did you trim back the door card?  The Seas won't fit behind that plasti-skin without trimming if they are mounted on a baffle.  If they aren't mounted on a baffle hurry up and add one...

Only need to trim enough so that you lose one clip on the screen to stay on, from the inside of the car it'll still look stock.  While you are at it, paint the screw heads black or at least color them with a sharpie.

Yes, I trimmed the door card. They are on 3/4" mdf rings with ebr between wood and door metal, ccf between wood and basket. I kinda like the look of the shiny screws, though you're right, painting them would be a little more stealth as that is what I'm going for in the front end.

Look what showed up today! 1500 watts of full range micro machines. For $300 shipped for the set I just couldn't pass them up after all the great reviews they have been getting. I should have plenty of front stage headroom for a while now.

 

Ipad mini for size comparison.

 

win

Nice, I like how small those are you could mount them about anywhere.

I'm about 90% sure they will be hiding in the center console, with a fan or two as well so they don't cook themselves under there.

Upgrade time! 540 CCA to 850 CCA should help the D3100 in the rear buffer the demand on the alternator a little better.