Another thing to check. It is hard to tell in the pictures where the gain and crossover settings are. The "line" for the screwdriver means nothing. Turn them all the way to zero and see where zero is then turn the crossover up to around 60Hz. The gain should be set at a level that doesn't make the speakers breakup. Start low and turn it up a bit.

The filters on the amp should be set to off.

No. The HP should be on. No way, no how can those comps take a bridged amp at low frequencies in his installation. To test to see if the filter is screwing things up he could turn it off but then DON'T turn it up loud as you could easily waffle one of the mids.

Aren't comp. type speaker setups considered full range. The way the manual reads you want it set to off and let the crossover do the work. Other wise he will not get the lows he wants.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

Perhaps an analogy will help. I have some full range speakers on my desk. They have a single 4" driver in them, currently connected to a 50w per channel amp. How do think the 4's would like it if I played a 15Hz tone at 50w?

The correct answer is that it would rip the shit out of them. 5w might be too much.

So his components are indeed "full range", but now he is powering them with plenty of power to reach Xmax of the driver at lower frequencies. If you don't want that driver bouncing off the back plate you HAVE to cross them over. This is exasperated in an IB mounting scenario. I'd even HP an 8" sub running as a midbass, of course that is for the other reason that having more than 1 driver playing the same frequency has a strong possibility of creating an acoustic mess in the space.

 

 

 

 

Another thing to check. It is hard to tell in the pictures where the gain and crossover settings are. The "line" for the screwdriver means nothing. Turn them all the way to zero and see where zero is then turn the crossover up to around 60Hz. The gain should be set at a level that doesn't make the speakers breakup. Start low and turn it up a bit.

The filters on the amp should be set to off.

 

No. The HP should be on. No way, no how can those comps take a bridged amp at low frequencies in his installation. To test to see if the filter is screwing things up he could turn it off but then DON'T turn it up loud as you could easily waffle one of the mids.

 

Aren't comp. type speaker setups considered full range. The way the manual reads you want it set to off and let the crossover do the work. Other wise he will not get the lows he wants.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

 

Perhaps an analogy will help. I have some full range speakers on my desk. They have a single 4" driver in them, currently connected to a 50w per channel amp. How do think the 4's would like it if I played a 15Hz tone at 50w?

The correct answer is that it would rip the shit out of them. 5w might be too much.

So his components are indeed "full range", but now he is powering them with plenty of power to reach Xmax of the driver at lower frequencies. If you don't want that driver bouncing off the back plate you HAVE to cross them over. This is exasperated in an IB mounting scenario. I'd even HP an 8" sub running as a midbass, of course that is for the other reason that having more than 1 driver playing the same frequency has a strong possibility of creating an acoustic mess in the space.

 

 

Should i even touch the setting in my head unit? It looks like i can adjust about anything.

 

 

 

 

Another thing to check. It is hard to tell in the pictures where the gain and crossover settings are. The "line" for the screwdriver means nothing. Turn them all the way to zero and see where zero is then turn the crossover up to around 60Hz. The gain should be set at a level that doesn't make the speakers breakup. Start low and turn it up a bit.

The filters on the amp should be set to off.

 

No. The HP should be on. No way, no how can those comps take a bridged amp at low frequencies in his installation. To test to see if the filter is screwing things up he could turn it off but then DON'T turn it up loud as you could easily waffle one of the mids.

 

Aren't comp. type speaker setups considered full range. The way the manual reads you want it set to off and let the crossover do the work. Other wise he will not get the lows he wants.

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12224_Pioneer-TS-D1720C.html

 

Perhaps an analogy will help. I have some full range speakers on my desk. They have a single 4" driver in them, currently connected to a 50w per channel amp. How do think the 4's would like it if I played a 15Hz tone at 50w?

The correct answer is that it would rip the shit out of them. 5w might be too much.

So his components are indeed "full range", but now he is powering them with plenty of power to reach Xmax of the driver at lower frequencies. If you don't want that driver bouncing off the back plate you HAVE to cross them over. This is exasperated in an IB mounting scenario. I'd even HP an 8" sub running as a midbass, of course that is for the other reason that having more than 1 driver playing the same frequency has a strong possibility of creating an acoustic mess in the space.

 

 

Another thing, What component speakers do you recommend? I'm going to sell the car with the components i have in them with the car because all 4 stock speakers were blown when i purchased the car.  Im looking for good sound quality because ill more than likely be running 2 sa-12s off of the saz 1500d unless i find other subs. i dont want to spend more the $400-$450. 

Amp or headunit, NOT both.

I am not one to recommend component speakers. To me the only solution is active. Passives are all tailored to different people. Go use your ears and listen to some. $400-450 is a crap ton of money for comps, you should be able to do well for that. IF that is your whole budget however I would plan on using $200 of it on deadening on $200 on speakers. The install is more important than the actual set you choose.

Amp or headunit, NOT both.

I am not one to recommend component speakers. To me the only solution is active. Passives are all tailored to different people. Go use your ears and listen to some. $400-450 is a crap ton of money for comps, you should be able to do well for that. IF that is your whole budget however I would plan on using $200 of it on deadening on $200 on speakers. The install is more important than the actual set you choose.

 

Ill have to go listen to some then. I have been saving up money for  a while now. I plan on at least doing my doors and trunk and i know deadening can be a lot of money. I put my price at $400 because i know some speakers can be over $600 but i feel like that's just buying the name, at the same time im not looking for speakers that are "good for the price" I want Good speakers that will make me want to keep them and put the time in installing the stock speakers back in if i sell the car later on. 

 

Random and i still feel a little eerie about doing it. I changed my wiring to the first 2 channels instead of bridged and it sounds a lot better. I feel as if i did a little bit of in depth tuning i could get it to where i want it.  

There is the possibility of a bum channel on the amp. If it where me I would be trying them to both sets of channels on the amp, without bridging. So try ch 1-2 and then switch them to ch 3-4 and see if you hear a difference. Also try both RCA patch cables and make sure one of them isn't the culprit. That's about the best tests you can do with what you have. That and continue to learn how to tune til YOU understand what your doing.

 

I haven't looked a whole lot at comps lately. The last two sets I bought where Alpine type-r's and Polk mm6.5's. Didn't care so much for the Polks, could get more for the money. On the other hand the Alpine's sounded great, but were the last model so can't vouch for the new one's. I would say go jam on what they have at the local store. If you you find something you like great. If not You will have a more subjective point of view for us to help from.

Random and i still feel a little eerie about doing it. I changed my wiring to the first 2 channels instead of bridged and it sounds a lot better. I feel as if i did a little bit of in depth tuning i could get it to where i want it.

I had a feeling there was a problem somewhere in the rca connections after seeing how the splitters were used. Now that it seems that was the issue, would you prefer to stay on two channels or run bridged? We can make sure the rcas get connected correctly.

Edit: J is right, checking the other two channels and rca cables would be wise. Could even be the splitters.

Edited February 12, 201510 yr by hdrox88