So I get through most of the sketch up of a new box and it hits me...

 

My port is 6" wide and where it ends is 6.75" away from the wall of the enclosure. Even though it is more space than the total width of the port, I assume it is close enough that it will effectively create another bend in the port and add more length than I want? It's late, I'm tired, and I think I just wasted the last hour. fml

 

I am curious, at what point does the port end and the perpendicular wall change port length? How close, or far do they need to be?

 

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by hdrox88

put a 45* in the corner to smooth out the turbulance and it'll be fine

Putting a 45 in the corner will allow the end of the port to be that close without adding to the effective port length?

 

Edit: I just added 1" to the width of the enclosure and added a 45 in every corner of the box to keep net volume about the same so the port-wall proximity should be a non issue now. Thanks for the quick response Thumpper.

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by hdrox88

Putting a 45 in the corner will allow the end of the port to be that close without adding to the effective port length?

 

Edit: I just added 1" to the width of the enclosure and added a 45 in every corner of the box to keep net volume about the same so the port-wall proximity should be a non issue now. Thanks for the quick response Thumpper.

Its such a small change you would never know the difference in response. Soooo unless your just that much of a perfectionist that it must be nearly perfect.. than I wouldn't worry about it

Ha, that's me. It's always gotta be just right.

Looks good!  Is this for a Trident?  What are your specs on box?

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by Jasonc13

Thanks, it sure is. Trident 18 is soon to arrive. According to torres calc, 5.13ft^3 @ 29.99hz with 103.5in^2 of port. This is with an approximate figure for the sub displacement so I'm sure it will change ever so slightly. 9.39ft^3 gross after double baffle. I am also thinking about using t-nuts on this one.

 

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by hdrox88

Use tnuts thay is what im doing on all my boxes easy to remove or place sub in

t nuts work really well but if you do use them glue them in with some Bulldog

 

I have seen a few people push down on the screw to hard when tightening them and push the t nut out of the hole

...sometimes it can be pulled back in and it bites and sometimes it doesn't ( can be a pain in the ass )

 

just sayin.....

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by Thumpper

Use tnuts thay is what im doing on all my boxes easy to remove or place sub in

I have had problems with tnuts coming loose if you don't glue them in good.

 

Posted to late.

Edited February 11, 201510 yr by pmureika

Am I the only one that absolutely hates t-nuts? 

I try to purposely build my boxes in a top-firing configuration to avoid the use of tnuts

Am I the only one that absolutely hates t-nuts? 

I try to purposely build my boxes in a top-firing configuration to avoid the use of tnuts

If you use them incorrectly they absolutely suck. They are meant to bite on to hard woods like birch and plys.

 

If you're using mdf you can try hurricane nuts and they work a lot better than t-nuts for that purpose I feel.

Am I the only one that absolutely hates t-nuts? 

I try to purposely build my boxes in a top-firing configuration to avoid the use of tnuts

No I hate them also. I would use a screw before a tnut.

I didn't realize there were so many complications with t nuts. I'm just thinking about preventing broken screws as wood screws aren't the thickest fasteners available. The hurricane nuts look like they might be prone to spinning in place?

You glue them to help prevent unwanted spinning

I hate having the baffle slowly worn out from swapping woofers and such. The box I got with my btl has like four or five different sets of mounting holes. If it comes out again, it's pretty much ragged.

I found these at Home Depot and feel fairly confident in them. They wont fall into the box when installing the screws and, given the length, should have plenty of bite to keep from spinning of pulling out.

 

I've tried a lot of different fasteners, at this point I like 1/4" socket head cap screws and these the best: 

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096

 

They are much more difficult to cross-thread than hurricane nuts or t-nuts.  If you cross thread a hurricane nut and break it free from the glue, you WILL hate your life.  

I found these at Home Depot and feel fairly confident in them. They wont fall into the box when installing the screws and, given the length, should have plenty of bite to keep from spinning of pulling out.

This is what I used for my changeable port and they are great still had to glue them with some wood glue