So I have most of the system planned.

 

Truck is a super cab 2014 F150.

 

Subs will be two RE REX 10s Dual 4s. Each sub will get .72 cubic feet sealed. Box is going under the rear seat.

 

Sub amp will be SAE-1000D

 

Comp set amp will be Rockford Fosgate P300x2.

 

I am not sure what comps to go with. Going to be a 6.5" set. Budget up to around 200 ish dollars for them. Top mount depth cant be more than 2 3/8th inch.

 

Have been looking at Kappa 60.11cs, Alpine Type R, JL c2-600 is close enough with a spacer. I might need to spend a little less to get a smaller driver, because I cant space the speaker out from the door too much with out hitting the door panel, and I am not going to cut the door panel.

 

 

I had Image Dynamic CTX65cs in my last truck and they were beyond awesome but they are pretty deep at 2 3/4". I would like something very comparable to these for about the same price. Cant spend much more than 200 because I need to buy the rest of the crap too, thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Very detailed thread, wish others would pay attention and take notes.

Out of three you mentioned, can you find a local car audio shop or place that sells care audio to demo anyone of those components? What are your mounting locations, what amp will you be using, any deadening or treatment on the doors?

Local shops only carry common stuff like Alpine, Rockford, Infinity etc. "Big brands" so no not really.

 

Like I said Ideally I want something like the image dynamics cause they are amazing in my opinion but they are too deep and I dont think I can space them out far enough with out needing to cut a hole in the door panel. So I want something very very similar just 1/2 to 3/4 inch shallower.

 

Typical ford mounting location in the lower forward corner of each door panel. Tweeter is in the A pillar.

 

Amp is open to opinions because I havent bought it yet but I was thinking the Rockford Fosgate P300x2. Did not plan to do anything extra too the doors. Door panels screw on instead of using plastic snap clips so there should be no rattling.

 

Edit- door is actually made for a 6x8 speaker I was just going to adapt it to a 6.5 round. But that will open up more options if anyone wanted to suggest something in that size.

Edited February 26, 201510 yr by ArrizX

If you need  an adapter anyway and you only need an additional 3/8" to use the drivers you already have, it would "seem" like it should be very close to working.

How thick and what did you plan to make the adapter out of?

What's in the way behind the magnet, the window, the window track or an impact beam?

which components you go with is less important then the install. factor in sound deadening for the doors into your budget. even if you need to cut the amp and component budget in half to do so. 

cobra, I have no idea it was just from reading about a guy in the same truck bought an infinity set that were sized to 2 3/8 and he needed a 1/4" spacer to clear. I beleive it was glass but I am not sure.

 

lithium, I have never deaded a door, or felt the need too. I didnt realize it was so important? Thats something that can be done down the road, right?

cobra, I have no idea it was just from reading about a guy in the same truck bought an infinity set that were sized to 2 3/8 and he needed a 1/4" spacer to clear. I beleive it was glass but I am not sure.

 

lithium, I have never deaded a door, or felt the need too. I didnt realize it was so important? Thats something that can be done down the road, right?

 

then you dont understand the value in doing so. imo, speeding so much on the front stage and not installing it correctly is pissing money away. 

Installing a set of components of any value without a baffle and deadening is wasting money. I'd personally rather run a pair of $8 mids and $5 tweeters in an install with a baffle and the right setup than bolting a set of $200 components into my doors as they are mounted stock.

You are also looking for something that is hard to recommend. Without depth you lose excursion and end up with compromises. The best thing you can do is focus on your install and try to eek out as much depth as possible. Drivers typically start to get fun around that 75-80mm mounting depth range.

Interesting. Ive never been advised to deaden my door. I guess I dont know too many - or any- audio professionals and usually do my own installs.

 

Could I get a reccomendation for deadener and a comp set? At least pointed in the right direction for speakers? I still feel like I am poking in the dark I have pretty limited experiece with component sets

Comp sets are somewhat personal. Personally I would never install something I didn't get a chance to audition. That of course means that there are about 10 different 7" drivers in my basement lol. I'll also add that I haven't heard a component set that I think is worth a damn in 15 years. Part of the reason I haven't responded with any recommendations. Others also realize how different ears prefer other things.

All that being said. Listening to whatever is available local and focusing on installing it will net you WAY WAY better results than worrying a ton over the set themselves.

Interesting. Have not quite looked at it like that. What does your set up consist of then?

Stock garbage atm. I have all sorts of shit on my desk to go in though. Got in too far with the plans for the truck and stalled due to snowmobile season. Getting a carpc, Seas mids, Scanspeak tweets, maybe a sub maybe not, turbo, big brake kit suspension kit, wheels, and some other junk. So far I managed to build the whole PC and engine controller but haven't installed it yet.

Oh okay, well kick ass.

So, is buying a midrange speaker, a tweeter and a separate cross over some how different than a component set? Or does it just give you more control over brand stuff?

 

Isnt a comp set just a mid range woofer and a tweeter and a cross over? Although just from one brand?

So, is buying a midrange speaker, a tweeter and a separate cross over some how different than a component set? Or does it just give you more control over brand stuff?

 

Isnt a comp set just a mid range woofer and a tweeter and a cross over? Although just from one brand?

 

that would be a passive crossover. m5 will be processing the signal before amplification (active xover). downside is that it requires significantly more knowledge to set up and more equipment. upside is that the drivers you can use are better quality, cheap (relative to equally preforming drivers in a comp set), and potentially a much better sounding system.  

head over to sounddeadenershowdown.com for some info on deadening. I'd recommend you do the bare minimum treatment for the doors. CLD on the door skin to dampen panel resonance, MLV barrier to keep noise out, and CCF sandwiched between the MLV and the door skin which decouples both the MLV barrier and the door trim from the vibrating door. 

Interesting. While that would be fun to learn and try I dont think thats going to be what I want right now. I appreciate the clarification though.

Thanks for the dampening info. Ill do that. I think I can handle it from here. Im going to make another thread on subs I am having second thoughts and hopefully ill get that figured out and be buying all this crap soon!

you could keep the discussion to one thread but its fine either way. 

 

i think it would be better to look at things as a whole system. not two pieces (subs and front stage).