The most important thing is that I have no holes in the response, and im pretty willing to cut my doors up good although I dont think I would have enough room for anything bigger than 8" speakers and 1 or 2 smaller speakers, I know the midbass will never truely keep up with with the subwoofers but the closer I can get the better. once again I have up to 200rms @ 4ohms per side to dedicate the midbass and another 100-200rms @4ohm per side  to dedicate to treble.

What is a "hole" to you?

I would assume unable to play a certain frequency, or could play it but sound like shit

No matter what you do in a car you will have holes. Minimizing them will cost you output. I want to understand your definition to help. Not what you assume but want.

And the pwx ft1 will be probably the worst set up possible for the holes you want to minimize

I know this now, in the process of returning those speakers. What do you guys think of this combination? https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/silver-flute-w20rc38-04-ohm-8-wool-cone/ and https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/vifa-xt25bg60-04-vifa-ring-dome-tweeter-double-magnet-4-ohm/ crossing at about ~2-3k

as far as holes i just dont want anything that sounds seriously bad, I want good sound quality so when im not playing bassy songs I can adjust to subwoofer to be flat with the mid and high, those graphs looked pretty nice but somebody else probably knows what they are looking at better than me

no matter what i will probably be happy though because right now i just have 45rms x4 power coaxials so I cant imagine having dedicated speakers with 100-200rms going into each one will be worse, and im not seriously unhappy with my current situation, i just want more

Edited March 10, 201510 yr by bluelaser

Mounting locations and amount of install work you are willing to do?

Please post a name of a driver and not a link. The SF are a budget driver, miles better acoustically than the pwx but complete meh to me

the silver flute 8" is going to go in the stock 5.25/6.5 door location after i mod the doors, and the Vifa XT25BG60-04 will go somewhere above that wherever I could fit in the door most likely, Im willing to do pretty much any amount of work honestly since its something i like to do in my free time and someday want to start a company installing car audio

somebody else recommended sb acoustic for mid but it was more money than sf and couldnt find a 4ohm 8" driver for sb acoustic either so i figured the sf would serve my purpose better, still open to suggestions though

Edited March 10, 201510 yr by bluelaser

4ohm mids are usually a bad idea. 8's are better.

Mating an 8 to a tweeter is going to leave you a gap in the vocal range...

why is 8ohm better?

There is a tech thread on here where I spelled that out. I am on a train in Tokyo right now so I don't feel like typing a book response.

Your amp may make more power with the 4 but it won't be loudee

so you're suggesting an 8 ohm 6.5 speaker for mid?

You want more but won't pick a compromise. Hard to recommend anything until our do.

the compromise would be sacrificing some volume for better overall sound quality and flatter response, unless you mean would i rather sacrifice midbass or vocal range then i would rather have stronger midbass than vocal range as long as its not severely crippled

i currently turn my treble up to +3 to match my subwoofer so i guess i like good bass and good treble and am willing to sacrifice a little midrange, unless you think a 6.5 is just more well rounded than an 8 and could do 80-3k hz without much problem

Edited March 10, 201510 yr by bluelaser

A 2" driver can play 80-3000Hz...but only at a certain level. The 6.5 will run out of steam on the bottom end compared to an 8". Getting an 8 to play a bunch above 1kHz isn't usually the best idea. Getting a tweeter to play down to 1kHz means a horn and a ton of eq. There are ways to fortify the midbass, but then the processing becomes difficult.

How nicely does the midbass need to mate with the sub/s and at what level? This will determine what is needed there.

And don't use "keep up" as there is pretty much no way in hell unless you run your subs up REALLY high in frequency.

Upgrading to a better tweet and 6.5 may not net you a bunch more output as measured overall, but it will gain you clarity. Your current drivers are easily overwhelmed as they have a horseshit crossover and were designed to be cheap, not effective.

What processing do you have? Some of the options above will be ruled out instantly depending.

right now not much but am planning on getting a clarion cz702 for the 3 preamps and active crossovers, midbass doesnt have to be perfect i just dont want it practically non existant like it is currently from infinity reference coaxials

Just fixing the install will make a MONSTROUS difference in midbass. Going to a driver that has more throw and power handling will help a ton too. Mounting the tweeters in your doors I'd much prefer a solution that included independent left/right equalizer settings. Worth mentioning since you haven't bought processing yet.

explain what you mean about independent left/right equalizer settings

Eq bands for the left side and eq bands for the right side. Your car isn't perfect and your speakers will sound different on each side. Being able to tune that out is super helpful.

still unsure about the freq response graphs, when I look at the silver flutes the 8" looks flatter than the 6.5" especially around 1k. Also the 8 ohm versions appear to have less output overall. Am I looking at the graphs wrong or something?

Ignore the graphs and answer questions. You are shopping before you have any idea what you can shop for

what other info do you need?

A large midbass driver (8"-12") mated to a full range driver (3-4") will net you the loudest midbass possible, at the cost of attack in the lower midrange frequencies. Its the same as the midbass not keeping up with the sub, your just moving the compromise to the lower midrange not keeping up with the midbass. Doing a 6.5-7" mid with a tweeter will most likely have cleaner, tighter midbass, but with a tad less output down low. You will gain a ton of clarity and attack everywhere from the upper midbass frequencies up though. If you can build a ported pod for the 6.5-7" you can boost the lower midbass output as well. Starting with a well rounded driver will be key, as Jay-cee said. You don't want to start with a "pro" driver thats already peaky in the wrong freq range. Thats working backwards.

Another feature that would be steller in a processor would be individual EQ for each driver. Not just side to side, but capable of boosting a frequency to a single driver. Example, boost the mid at 80hz without it adding anything to the top of the subs freq response.

I will say even with 12" midbasses I can still easily overpower the midbass with the sub.

The safest and easiest compromise is to mimic what car audio has done for years. Grab a 7" driver and a real tweeter and make them work. When you don't like that or can describe what you'd improve about it then upgrade. This makes the process more expensive though as it is one more iteration. That being said, in your case you seem to not be able to describe what you want to do so it may be the only real solution.

ok so who makes a good 7" driver, dayton perhaps? and vifa for a tweeter? also what would a good processor be or should i just get the clarion cz702?

Tons of good 7" drivers. Budget, mounting depth, processing, tweeter, active cross over experience all play a role in which one would be a good choice for you.

Personally I'd take a Pio 80/88prs over the Clarion ANY day of the week. In particular for a beginner..and not because the auto tune works that is flat out useless but it is very straightforward to use. Neither is truly ultra flexible allowing the purchase of any driver, but depending on how long before you change things up that may not matter.