Posted March 12, 201510 yr My setup ... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63992_Pioneer-TS-A6965R.html pioneer 6x9's cerwin vega 6.5's http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76907_Cerwin-Vega-XED62.html pioneer receiver http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_60596_Pioneer-DEH-150MP.html 4 gauge Belva installation kit http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_86031_Belva-BAK42BK-Black.html .... Will the deck be enough to power my 6.5's and will my stock 6x9 mid amps be enough for the pioneers?
March 12, 201510 yr Author I'm also going to be installing a planet audio amp http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-AC4000-1D-4000-watts-Monoblock/dp/B003GSLE26 to power my 1000watt rms sub
March 12, 201510 yr What are you asking? "is this a good setup" is extremely subjective. For example, to me, I would answer no. I ran a BTL18 and alpine comp fronts, even went to far as to start learning time alignment and phasing. Every little thing can have a surprisingly large effect. A lot of factors come into play. A properly executed system will always outperform expensive parts just slapped together. What kind of sound are you looking for, what music do you listen to the most? How loud are you looking for; rattle your teeth or something that will blend well, sound clean and clear on all types of music? I'd start with zero gauge, simply because it helps later on down the road when you want to upgrade. Do you know how to do the big three? Even with a smaller system, steady voltage and charging is a big plus. Do you know your cars alternator output? How are the mids going to be mounted? Factory cutouts or mdf baffle? Are you planning on doing any sound deadening? Why do you feel you need rear speakers? Fronts only will sound much cleaner, and it's much easier to manage, cheaper, the list goes on.Deck power is hardly good for anything, and the stock amp will end up being a mess and a hassle from the sounds of what you're planning. Pick out a nice 2ch or a 4ch. It'll be worth it, I guarantee it. It also gives you nearly unlimited options for the future in terms of upgrading. Something like this, PPI 900.4: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.htmlgives you plenty of controls, plenty of power for a nice buff front stage. Good learning platform for the transition from passive to active as well.Hope this helps a little, and have fun with the build =) Edited March 12, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy
March 12, 201510 yr Author Thanks... The actual question is if my deck can power my fronts ... But I realized that getting an amp to power both my fronts and 6x9's is the best way ... No problem I have an extra amp for tgem anyways ... Yea I'll go to zero gauge instead ... For temporary I'm installing an old school JL 15 in a ported box I built with a smaller mono block amp ... Because I still have to build a custom ported box for my 12
March 12, 201510 yr If you take the rear speakers out, the 6x9 cutouts will help with bass. Helped a lot in a Taurus I did an install in. At the very least, I'd run a pair of 6.5's back there in some mdf baffles. I've never enjoyed doing anything with 6x9's other than taking them out. With a woofer, any bass they would've produced is now drowned by the fifteen, and the fifteen is beating on the cones, which can end up damaging them anyway.Just remember, even if it's frustrating, takes a few extra bucks, and a little more time, doing it right the first time means it's one less thing to re-do and grow angry with later on down the road Edited March 12, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy
March 12, 201510 yr If you take the rear speakers out, the 6x9 cutouts will help with bass. Helped a lot in a Taurus I did an install in. At the very least, I'd run a pair of 6.5's back there in some mdf baffles. I've never enjoyed doing anything with 6x9's other than taking them out. With a woofer, any bass they would've produced is now drowned by the fifteen, and the fifteen is beating on the cones, which can end up damaging them anyway.Just remember, even if it's frustrating, takes a few extra bucks, and a little more time, doing it right the first time means it's one less thing to re-do and grow angry with later on down the road Putting any speakers in the rear deck are a waste no matter the size.
March 12, 201510 yr Author So just take out the rears to let the sounds rom the sub goes through?.... Should I put rear mids in a separate box mounted in the back .. Or what should I do to get my mids back from taking out the 6x9's?
March 12, 201510 yr Author So put 6.5's in a baffle then mount the on the back? How do I make this setup look clean with just baffles holding the mids?
March 12, 201510 yr I would ditch rears entirely, like Jay-Cee suggested. They only complicate things.Are you asking about baffles for the front mids? Find how much clearance you have between the panel and the window (rolled down) then you can pick a set of mids, and once you figure out how much clearance they need, you can decide on how many rings you'll need to put behind them. Edited March 12, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy
March 13, 201510 yr Author How will I make up for mids when I get red of the 6x9's because I want my system to be balanced enough so the bass doesn't over power all the mids and I like that surround sound affect ... But of course I need a lot of bass coming from the Sub
March 13, 201510 yr Proper install will be what you want to focus on. Those 6x9's are not as great as you think, coupled with the fact that music is never performed from behind you. It'll muddy up the image.You don't need several drivers to achieve desired output. Just like one ten inch woofer can burp a 150, but an eighteen might not do the same, it's all about the install, and how it's configured. Deaden the doors, make a nice solid set of baffles, amp the front components, ditch the factory grille, and you'll never want those 6x9's back. Edited March 13, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy
March 13, 201510 yr Author So the 6.5's will be loud enough for both the fronts and loud enough for the back seat passenger to listen clear?
March 13, 201510 yr They should be loud enough if they are good ones. You might want to upgrade those cerwin vega 6.5's. Have you bought this stuff already? Edited March 13, 201510 yr by pmureika
March 13, 201510 yr Do you have a amp for the front stage? 2 or 4 channel? I see that you have a amp. how many watts rms per channel? Edited March 13, 201510 yr by pmureika
March 14, 201510 yr Author I have a 550 watt max renagade amp .... 150 watts rms @ 4 ohms 2 channel for the mids .. Planet audio 4000 watt max amp for my sub
March 14, 201510 yr So the 6.5's will be loud enough for both the fronts and loud enough for the back seat passenger to listen clear?Why do you assume it would be louder with the 6x9's added? I'll give you a hint, that is a BAD assumption.
March 14, 201510 yr Author So the 6.5's will be loud enough for both the fronts and loud enough for the back seat passenger to listen clear?Why do you assume it would be louder with the 6x9's added? I'll give you a hint, that is a BAD assumption. well I thought the more speakers the more output
March 14, 201510 yr Author Should I get a pioneer deck http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_60596_Pioneer-DEH-150MP.html a zero gauge kit http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69629_Belva-BPK0D-HOT-NEW-PRICE.html
March 14, 201510 yr Author And polk mids http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9111_Polk-Audio-db651.html powered by my renagade 2 channel amp?
March 14, 201510 yr I have always liked pioneer decks,Can't say I've used Belva wiring, I used Knukonceptz OFC 1/0.
March 14, 201510 yr Author I also have another question is how do I get zero gauge onto my planet audio mono block amp
March 14, 201510 yr Trim the excess, or buy a reducer/distribution block. Edited March 14, 201510 yr by SpeakerBoy
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