Subs done and will go out to you tomorrow. I did not get a chance to machine the aluminum compression plug before I left, so it had to wait until this morning.

Now tell me what you were powering it with again cause it was rather beat and the former was turning gold.

Thanks,

Scott

How could the sub get "beat" and the former turn gold if the sub never saw 1000w?

Scott could you help solve the mystery?

Another annoying person posting questionable comments. This sub has been powered by what I have posted earlier. I have never had a sub get damaged from my nominal usage. Make comments like that to a person who maybe doesn't know anything about powering woofers. This is the first time I have EVER needed to get a sub re-coned, in fact, I didn't even know it was blown, until I took it in to a shop. Nonetheless, Scott, here's the setting on my 1000/1 right now. I will not hook the sub back up until one of you guys get a chance to look at them. This is from the original email that I had sent you:

Hey Scott, here's the gains on my JL 1000/1 that I had my Q set to:

Input Sensitivity: 60-65%

Infrasonic Filter: On @ 25hz

Bass EQ: On @ 0.7

Center Freq: 40

Bass Boost: +4

LP Filter: 85Hz

Slope: 12db

Output Polarity: Reversed

I don't have a SSF on this amp, but please let me know if you see anything wrong with the gains that I have set as of now. In case you need to know, my box is 2.2^ tuned to about 30hz.

Bass boost should be a nil...

Not sure why you are reversing your output polarity either...

Please, for the sake of the repaired Q, turn the bass boost off.

also depending on the head unit your using the gain may be a bit high. my eclipse cd8445 with the 8 volt preouts actually sent the amp into clipping with the gain set extremely low. i had to make the adjust mentsat the deck to keep it from clipping. not sure if that helps or not.

Bass boost will be placed to 0.

Output Polarity will be changed to normal.

Please, for the sake of the repaired Q, turn the bass boost off.

Well, I didn't think that was bad, having it @ +4, as it will allow up to +15. I know that having it up too high only clips the signal.

Having output polarity reversed is fine... it only is relative to your seating position and the bass integration there. If bass sounds thin, switch it back to 180. This doesnt factor into the equation.

Subsonic filter definitely does. This is what they call the infrasonic filter. Looking at JLs site, they have a listing of settings on the amp vs actual numbers. At "25" it is actually cornered at 21Hz. At "30" it is actually at 30 Hz. Then at "40" it is actually at 47 Hz. You can see the nonlinearity between the printed numbers and actual frequencies. I cant seem to find reference to your enclosure... what are you using?

I cant tell you about your gain settings as I dont know what the deck does... Id need to measure things to see, or better yet set them up with an o-scope. But I have the feeling that things simply moved WAY too far for their own good. The coil discoloration could come into play from several things (all of which leading to heat buildup)... but Ill reserve some comments on how until I know what enclosure its in (Im sure you have said but I am often blind )

Thanks,

Scott

Having output polarity reversed is fine... it only is relative to your seating position and the bass integration there. If bass sounds thin, switch it back to 180. This doesnt factor into the equation.

Subsonic filter definitely does. This is what they call the infrasonic filter. Looking at JLs site, they have a listing of settings on the amp vs actual numbers. At "25" it is actually cornered at 21Hz. At "30" it is actually at 30 Hz. Then at "40" it is actually at 47 Hz. You can see the nonlinearity between the printed numbers and actual frequencies. I cant seem to find reference to your enclosure... what are you using?

I cant tell you about your gain settings as I dont know what the deck does... Id need to measure things to see, or better yet set them up with an o-scope. But I have the feeling that things simply moved WAY too far for their own good. The coil discoloration could come into play from several things (all of which leading to heat buildup)... but Ill reserve some comments on how until I know what enclosure its in (Im sure you have said but I am often blind )

Thanks,

Scott

Hey Scott, I had the sub in a previous enclosure that I don't know the specs of it exactly. The new enclosure is 2.3 CUF tuned to 30HZ. I had it designed by IonLSQ, and I built it. I am currently using an Pioneer Avic D3 as my H/U. Thanx for your time.

Edited July 12, 200718 yr by Que

That could be a good portion of the problem as well. If the tuning is not right and the subsonic was set to 25 (although really 21 Hz) it would be unloading the driver causing FAR too much movement below tuning. With the new one, set it closer to 30 Hz and see how it fairs. Id say 95% of your issues will resolve themselves with that.

Thanks,

Scott

That could be a good portion of the problem as well. If the tuning is not right and the subsonic was set to 25 (although really 21 Hz) it would be unloading the driver causing FAR too much movement below tuning. With the new one, set it closer to 30 Hz and see how it fairs. Id say 95% of your issues will resolve themselves with that.

Thanks,

Scott

Will do. After I break it in, I will get a vid up for ya.

I am actually a bit surprised about the infrasonic filter printed numbers and actual numbers...

Kinda makes you wake up and make you to dig a bit deeper and "know" your audio equipment...

Edited July 12, 200718 yr by theabunai

i use a dmm when i set filters, seems to be a better solution.

I was surprised too... but its in the pdf for the amp on JLs site.

i use a dmm when i set filters, seems to be a better solution.

I like test disc's

I was surprised too... but its in the pdf for the amp on JLs site.

Yeah, thanks for that though scott, now i'm digging through all my amp/HU/X-over tech sheets and reading all the fine print.... Just in case ya know !!

i use a dmm when i set filters, seems to be a better solution.

I like test disc's

I use a test disc in addition to a dmm.