hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X

So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft.

Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100).

So i would like all the SS fans opinions on this one!

Btw i will get some pics up tommorrow of my trunk as it is, and a rouch sketchup of how i want the finished look to be.

hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X

So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft.

Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100).

So i would like all the SS fans opinions on this one!

Btw i will get some pics up tommorrow of my trunk as it is, and a rouch sketchup of how i want the finished look to be.

go ported to spec from my experiences, rl-p's SHINE with portedness. if you can, drop the mids even lower to around 60-70... music sounds better the lower you drop the mid xover point IMO.

I prefer them sealed and only have my Rlp playing to 50hz, your preference may be different. My guess is that if you have it currently playing closer to 100hz you would be happier with a ported sub that will give you more output since at the moment it will be extremely localizable.

hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X

So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft.

Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100).

So i would like all the SS fans opinions on this one!

Btw i will get some pics up tommorrow of my trunk as it is, and a rouch sketchup of how i want the finished look to be.

go ported to spec from my experiences, rl-p's SHINE with portedness. if you can, drop the mids even lower to around 60-70... music sounds better the lower you drop the mid xover point IMO.

we have a smiliar system, ss in the trunk, aa mids, and same HU. Ive been listening to my mids with no hpf for the last cpl days and they sound great(but distort easier). I usually keep them around the 80 mark, but dropping them to 60 is bo problem.

As for playing a subwoofer to 50 hz only, isnt that babying it a lil? yah i keep my lpf @ 100hz, since the lowend on this thing is pretty strong, i try to eq a lil around the 80-100hz mark to flatten it out.

Well as it stands i guess im going with 3.5 @ 30 hz

It's not like you have midbasses that can't take being crossed over that low...given proper deadening, mounting and sealing of the door panel, those will definitely go that low

As for playing a subwoofer to 50 hz only, isnt that babying it a lil? yah i keep my lpf @ 100hz, since the lowend on this thing is pretty strong, i try to eq a lil around the 80-100hz mark to flatten it out.

Well as it stands i guess im going with 3.5 @ 30 hz

Babying a sub would be to cut it off with a high pass above a certain point, it surely won't hurt the driver to play it closer to 100hz but to me it "hurts" my ears. I really don't like to localize bass at all and I can even at 50hz but regrettably can't blend if I lower the cross point any further than 50. Typically when people turn their subs up that far to it is to maximize the bass which has nothing to do with blending with your front stage which to me is the ultimate goal.

It's not like you have midbasses that can't take being crossed over that low...given proper deadening, mounting and sealing of the door panel, those will definitely go that low

ahh see, my aa mids are fiberglassed into a sealed enclosure inside my door =D It looks completely stock, but i built the whole thing inside the door and it cant be removed unless sawed into tiny bits. Ive been thinking abouty throwing 3 or 4 more pairs into my car >=) Maybe a pair in some kickpanels, the rear doors, and rear deck, if anything.

As for bleding in my sub with my frontstage, i put togethor a test tone cd in intervals of 10, from 10hz to 150hz, and also a sweep through the same range. My mids are outstanding in the 100-150hz range, my sub is strong in the 60hz and lower, but from 60hz-100hz things tend to get a little weak, no matter the xover point, which is pretty overlapped as it is right now. Maybe this new box im building might have an impact on that gap.

I took a quick snap of my trunk today, but it was mid afternoon, really bad natural lighting. I will be sure to get some great ones tommorrow, and also take pics of my trunk build on sat morning!

well i built the box this morning. i took pics of my trunk yesterday, but when i upload them to the net via my phone, they are not showing. just got a new cheapo free phone, dont ever buy a samsung t9 something, its lammmmmeeeeee.

Built a wall for my amps, and im in the process of installing everything but it decided to rain so im inside waiting it out.