hatrix

Yea I know there's some cabin gain from my room. As of right now my E8v3 has it's aero port fired right into a corner of my studio room. Obviously not ideal at all for a flat response, but lately it's only been used for listening to music. Someone else who lives in my house happens to work really dumb hours at night so they are usually asleep all day, and having the sub on at ALL makes it audible anywhere in the house pretty much. Thanks for the link, I was wondering if there was a tool to calculate in my room measurements also. Oh man, if I could afford measurement mics I totally would run TruRTA and get some ideas on how my actual frequency response is. I can only dream of having an actual studio with its own building and properly designed room. I wish acoustic treatment wasn't so damn expensive. Way more money than most of my audio hardware combined. I'd like to learn more about proper acoustic treatment in studio environments. I have done a fair share of reading, but completely taming a room is such a hard task. With most of us being used to the more "boomy" output of our sub setups in vehicles, it's so much different in a studio setup.

lol that's pretty gross, I have to say. Maybe she likes the smell.

I'm sure it could be tamed with EQ if I decided to go vented... Either with my mixer or through an old Technics hardware EQ I have sitting around (7 bands for both the left and right channel). I'm not really sure what size I should go for with a sealed enclosure, so I just went with the suggestion on Sundown's site. The main frequencies I care about are basically where it starts to slope. Below ~30hz, not very important to me, but 30-60hz is very crucial when it comes to the music I produce.

Sheesh I sure am glad I don't have the flu or anything going around me. I feel sorry for you guys. Then again I live with year round allergies so I might as well have a constant cold.

I used the ones provided on the Sundown site. http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/woofer_measurements/SA_Series_Manual%2810-12-15%29.pdf

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. This is the SA-15 modeled in WinISD using a vented enclosure (single aero port) that is 4 cubes tuned to 28hz (seemed to offer the flattest response): Modeling a sealed enclosure yields pretty poor results. Seems no matter the enclosure size, it slopes hard around 50hz. WinISD doesn't recommend using sealed or a 4th order from what I've tested. Either ported or 6th order.

My radiator doesn't even have a cap. All coolant must be filled through the overflow... I'm not doubting you know about cars. I certainly don't have extensive knowledge, just going by what my friend that owns his own mechanic shop recommended. He's a family friend and definitely knows what he's doing, but he hates my jeep lol. I have flushed it with water for nearly an hour before until it eventually came out clear. The thermostat still ended up getting to hot and eventually busting after installing a new one, replacing the gasket and sealing it up. I definitely could throw a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator lol. I did it last year. You can't even see it either because I can put my grill right back over it. If it wasn't a 2WD XJ, I might consider redoing the cooling system (among other things), but I just don't feel it's worth it. The damn jeep is historical this year. EDIT: This is pretty much exactly what my engine bay looks like, though a lot cleaner. Overflow is in top left obviously. Only way to drain the radiator is through the petcock which is located in a very stupid place that's incredibly hard to reach.. otherwise there is no other access to the radiator.

Your thermostat is there for a reason. Put it back in, you'll thank me. I took the thermostat out for cooling reasons. Not so much a problem during winter, but during summertime my engine will overheat with a thermostat installed. To much rust build up (yes, It's been flushed many times) and the thermostat always ends up breaking and doesn't open to let coolant through. The cooling system on my 1989 jeep is a terrible design that uses an overflow tank. Without completely redoing the cooling system, taking out the thermostat resolves any overheating issues and costs me nothing. I still have heat... it just takes a long time to warm up and never gets that warm. Enough to defrost the windows so I'll live with it.

No I haven't, I will though. I'm not certain on sealed yet. It was just a thought as I've never built a sealed enclosure. By SQ I mean a near flat frequency response down to 30hz or so (upper cut off can be lower than 80hz, my monitors play surprisingly low) with very low or no audible distortion, good transients.

that sounds ridiculous. dsp for what? boosting the low end because you designed a shitty enclosure? Would I be loosing SQ by going above the recommend 2.5 cubes for a sealed enclosure for an SA-15 ? Will going bigger provide better low end extension ? Note I'll probably only be running 300-400 watts to the sub, if that.

I agree, but if I don't like how it sounds I'll be wasting money on MDF.... So a sealed enclosure should provide better SQ, right ? I'd like to find out if anyone has experience with both drivers, or any driver from both E and SA series, and can comment on SQ differences between the two. Then I can determine which driver to choose for a sealed enclosure and go from there. In general, is there any difference in SQ between different size drivers ?

Yea that's the thing about going sealed though... I know I'll need an EQ boost on the lows because of how high FS is. My mixer is capable of EQing without having to buy a DSP and add more processing to the audio chain, but it's low band is at 80hz... Going from a ported E8v3 to a sealed SA-15... I'm really curious what difference in output I would see. SQ wise I'm really not sure how much better it would sound.

I wish it was that warm here. I'm tired of warming up my jeep every morning before work. My heat barely works since I had to remove the thermostat from the engine. It's not as enjoyable listening to my system when it's cold.

Awesome looking truck swift. Get some stacks That's pretty hilarious. It's going to be -4 F on Tuesday here. That's the high for the day..... Add 23mph winds and it's going to be cold as hell. Not looking forward to it. We also got about 5-6 inches of snow the other night along with high winds. Roads were terrible.

As I figured. Thanks for the replies. I know this isn't the proper way to run gains, I was just curious about it after having tested it. I also know clipping can be perfectly harmless... as long as it can thermally handle it. I really must say, the SSD can take some serious abuse. I never knew it could get this loud. Louder than my friends old Sundown Zv.3 18" on the same exact amp (the SAX-1200D used to be his). I still plan to eventually run two of the 18" SSDs. I'm sure it'll blow me away.