hatrix

I have a small home studio which I use to produce music and also DJ. Obviously SQ is really my only concern. My studio's audio setup consists of the following components (in the spoler): Anyways, back on topic... I've been reading more in depth on other types of sub enclosures/designs such as IB. My priority in design is SQ. SPL is not much of a concern. An IB setup almost seems like the perfect studio subwoofer design on paper. Assuming it's correctly done, near flat frequency response, extremely low distortion, great transient response.... At least that's what I gathered from reading, but with the difficulty involved in properly designing a true IB setup, it might not be worth the effort. When I look at active studio subwoofers though, just about every design seems to be ported. My current setup with the E8v3 is very clean sounding and blends very well with my monitors. I'm very pleased with it. It gets VERY loud for being a single 8" woofer (enough to rattle the walls in my house with ease), and it extends very low. I don't hear any noticeable drop in output until under 35hz. Now if I'm pleased with my current setup, you may ask why try to change it ? Well normally I wouldn't bother, but I have an SA-15 D2 sitting in my room unused and was wondering if it could offer better SQ than my current setup, and if so what box design would be ideal for my goal ? Sealed doesn't seem like a very good option considering the FS of the driver. Also, I'm a bit clueless when it comes to bandpass designs.

Yea I know there's some cabin gain from my room. As of right now my E8v3 has it's aero port fired right into a corner of my studio room. Obviously not ideal at all for a flat response, but lately it's only been used for listening to music. Someone else who lives in my house happens to work really dumb hours at night so they are usually asleep all day, and having the sub on at ALL makes it audible anywhere in the house pretty much. Thanks for the link, I was wondering if there was a tool to calculate in my room measurements also. Oh man, if I could afford measurement mics I totally would run TruRTA and get some ideas on how my actual frequency response is. I can only dream of having an actual studio with its own building and properly designed room. I wish acoustic treatment wasn't so damn expensive. Way more money than most of my audio hardware combined. I'd like to learn more about proper acoustic treatment in studio environments. I have done a fair share of reading, but completely taming a room is such a hard task. With most of us being used to the more "boomy" output of our sub setups in vehicles, it's so much different in a studio setup.

lol that's pretty gross, I have to say. Maybe she likes the smell.

I'm sure it could be tamed with EQ if I decided to go vented... Either with my mixer or through an old Technics hardware EQ I have sitting around (7 bands for both the left and right channel). I'm not really sure what size I should go for with a sealed enclosure, so I just went with the suggestion on Sundown's site. The main frequencies I care about are basically where it starts to slope. Below ~30hz, not very important to me, but 30-60hz is very crucial when it comes to the music I produce.

Sheesh I sure am glad I don't have the flu or anything going around me. I feel sorry for you guys. Then again I live with year round allergies so I might as well have a constant cold.

I used the ones provided on the Sundown site. http://www.sundownaudio.com/misc/woofer_measurements/SA_Series_Manual%2810-12-15%29.pdf

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. This is the SA-15 modeled in WinISD using a vented enclosure (single aero port) that is 4 cubes tuned to 28hz (seemed to offer the flattest response): Modeling a sealed enclosure yields pretty poor results. Seems no matter the enclosure size, it slopes hard around 50hz. WinISD doesn't recommend using sealed or a 4th order from what I've tested. Either ported or 6th order.

My radiator doesn't even have a cap. All coolant must be filled through the overflow... I'm not doubting you know about cars. I certainly don't have extensive knowledge, just going by what my friend that owns his own mechanic shop recommended. He's a family friend and definitely knows what he's doing, but he hates my jeep lol. I have flushed it with water for nearly an hour before until it eventually came out clear. The thermostat still ended up getting to hot and eventually busting after installing a new one, replacing the gasket and sealing it up. I definitely could throw a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator lol. I did it last year. You can't even see it either because I can put my grill right back over it. If it wasn't a 2WD XJ, I might consider redoing the cooling system (among other things), but I just don't feel it's worth it. The damn jeep is historical this year. EDIT: This is pretty much exactly what my engine bay looks like, though a lot cleaner. Overflow is in top left obviously. Only way to drain the radiator is through the petcock which is located in a very stupid place that's incredibly hard to reach.. otherwise there is no other access to the radiator.

Your thermostat is there for a reason. Put it back in, you'll thank me. I took the thermostat out for cooling reasons. Not so much a problem during winter, but during summertime my engine will overheat with a thermostat installed. To much rust build up (yes, It's been flushed many times) and the thermostat always ends up breaking and doesn't open to let coolant through. The cooling system on my 1989 jeep is a terrible design that uses an overflow tank. Without completely redoing the cooling system, taking out the thermostat resolves any overheating issues and costs me nothing. I still have heat... it just takes a long time to warm up and never gets that warm. Enough to defrost the windows so I'll live with it.

No I haven't, I will though. I'm not certain on sealed yet. It was just a thought as I've never built a sealed enclosure. By SQ I mean a near flat frequency response down to 30hz or so (upper cut off can be lower than 80hz, my monitors play surprisingly low) with very low or no audible distortion, good transients.

that sounds ridiculous. dsp for what? boosting the low end because you designed a shitty enclosure? Would I be loosing SQ by going above the recommend 2.5 cubes for a sealed enclosure for an SA-15 ? Will going bigger provide better low end extension ? Note I'll probably only be running 300-400 watts to the sub, if that.

I agree, but if I don't like how it sounds I'll be wasting money on MDF.... So a sealed enclosure should provide better SQ, right ? I'd like to find out if anyone has experience with both drivers, or any driver from both E and SA series, and can comment on SQ differences between the two. Then I can determine which driver to choose for a sealed enclosure and go from there. In general, is there any difference in SQ between different size drivers ?

Yea that's the thing about going sealed though... I know I'll need an EQ boost on the lows because of how high FS is. My mixer is capable of EQing without having to buy a DSP and add more processing to the audio chain, but it's low band is at 80hz... Going from a ported E8v3 to a sealed SA-15... I'm really curious what difference in output I would see. SQ wise I'm really not sure how much better it would sound.

I wish it was that warm here. I'm tired of warming up my jeep every morning before work. My heat barely works since I had to remove the thermostat from the engine. It's not as enjoyable listening to my system when it's cold.

Awesome looking truck swift. Get some stacks That's pretty hilarious. It's going to be -4 F on Tuesday here. That's the high for the day..... Add 23mph winds and it's going to be cold as hell. Not looking forward to it. We also got about 5-6 inches of snow the other night along with high winds. Roads were terrible.

As I figured. Thanks for the replies. I know this isn't the proper way to run gains, I was just curious about it after having tested it. I also know clipping can be perfectly harmless... as long as it can thermally handle it. I really must say, the SSD can take some serious abuse. I never knew it could get this loud. Louder than my friends old Sundown Zv.3 18" on the same exact amp (the SAX-1200D used to be his). I still plan to eventually run two of the 18" SSDs. I'm sure it'll blow me away.

I have a pretty simple question regarding use of the remote gain knob for my SAX-1200D. Say I turn the gain on my amp all the way up to max. Obviously not recommended. However, if my remote gain is only set to... lets say 1/4 of the way up, would my sub still be at risk of high clipping and bad distortion ? From what I've read, the remote gain is just what it's name implies, a quick and easy way to turn up or down the gain without having to fiddle with the amp itself. So if that's the case, even if the amps gain is set to max but the remote only 1/4 the way up, it should be the same as running the amp itself at 1/4 gain, correct ? Now I've been testing this out lately, running the amps gain at max but keeping the remote gain very low. My SSD 18" seems to handle it perfectly fine, though around my max volume it seems as though the sub has veryyy slight distortion. I have yet to smell any burning coil even after extended use at high volumes. It does not sound like it's reaching its mechanical limit either. What confuses me though is how much louder it is compared to my previous gain setting. I had the amps gain set around 3/4 of the way up. Remote gain was always kept up all the way unless I needed to turn it down (however it had a dead zone slightly past half way where my sub no longer increased in volume, which seems to confirm that it can never EXCEED the amps set gain, only allowing adjustment equal to or lower than the amps gain setting). What am I not understanding here ?.....

If this is directed at me.... Smoke. It is a water pipe. Smoking medium ? Up to your imagination Yes, I don't get out much. So when things like that are posted I am curious. How would you smoke that? Pack desired herbs into the bowl head, burn it and fill it up with some milky smoke (obviously sucking in air), pull out the bowl head from the stemless "down steam" (there isn't really a downstem, the stemless design is usually found on higher end tubes and allows for more complex perc systems), then just clear the chamber. It is meant to be hit while sitting on a flat surface, straight up and down, as are most stemless designs. Here is two vids of it:

If this is directed at me.... Smoke. It is a water pipe. Smoking medium ? Up to your imagination

Is anyone located in Ohio by chance, near Akron or so ? I want to hear more systems, especially from other SSA members. Also need to start going to local events... Since you guys are posting pictures of vapes and such (I own an Arizer Extreme Q myself), I thought I'd post a picture of a recent purchase I made. Double honeycomb percs (90 holes each, lotsss of diffusion), cyclone spinning splashguard, stemless, 7mm thick glass.

I believe around ~6-6.5 or so. I don't know the exact number unfortunately, a friend got it for me in a trade. Switching from my old 9 cube box, I have a much flatter frequency response. My old box cut off pretty hard above 60hz or so.

Have any pics of your set up? Sure: Yea, some pics are a little dated but not too much has changed besides the door grills I mentioned and running my remote wire properly. I'm also aware my box says "Sundown Audio" yet I run a Fi SSD. I got the box in a trade (original box I built was 9cuft !), it was built by someone else. Still matches IMO as I run an SAX-1200D. I hope you cleaned up those power and ground wires going into the Sundown amp. I have. I've done a lot of misc cleaning up since most of those pictures, just no big changes. Redid grounds, redid all connections etc.

I have a small home studio as I produce EDM and also DJ. For monitoring when I can't have the volume up, my AKG K240 Studios do the job fantastically. They have a very impressive midrange, but lack a bit on the low end. Nothing some EQing can't fix to suit my tastes. I can wear them for 8+ hours without them feeling uncomfortable. I power them with a FiiO E17 USB DAC. 24bit/96k Of course, producing/mixing on headphones is not the optimal choice if I can use my studio monitors + subwoofer at a decent volume. I will always choose those over my AKGs. Come night time though, K240s are still very welcome.

Have any pics of your set up? Sure: Yea, some pics are a little dated but not too much has changed besides the door grills I mentioned and running my remote wire properly. I'm also aware my box says "Sundown Audio" yet I run a Fi SSD. I got the box in a trade (original box I built was 9cuft !), it was built by someone else. Still matches IMO as I run an SAX-1200D.

I have a single 18" Fi SSD in a 1989 Cherokee powered by a SAX-1200D. I plan to add another one down the road, but for now it's pretty darn loud.