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hatrix

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Posts posted by hatrix

  1. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    Keep in mind that rooms experience a "cabin gain" similar to what we experience in car audio, although not quite to the same extreme it exists none the less. There are some calculators out there that can help you predict this as it's based on the dimensions of your listening environment and placement of the subwoofer. Just the same as car audio, the response WinISD predicts will not be the same as you experience in your room. Without knowing the room gain you experience it'll be hard to design an enclosure with flat in-room response.

    I would check out Jeff's room gain calculator and see if you can get some idea for how the room behaves before you make any decision based on a WinISD modeled curve: http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html

     

    Yea I know there's some cabin gain from my room. As of right now my E8v3 has it's aero port fired right into a corner of my studio room. Obviously not ideal at all for a flat response, but lately it's only been used for listening to music. Someone else who lives in my house happens to work really dumb hours at night so they are usually asleep all day, and having the sub on at ALL makes it audible anywhere in the house pretty much.

     

    Thanks for the link, I was wondering if there was a tool to calculate in my room measurements also.

     

    Every studio I've worked with we've measured in situ and the designs were then adjusted. This means an iteration in your box and some measurement gear, but it'll really help nail things down. Be a rather good learning experience too. We've always taken it a step further though and done room corrections, but that requires measurement gear that is extremely cost prohibitive.

     

    Oh man, if I could afford measurement mics I totally would run TruRTA and get some ideas on how my actual frequency response is.

     

    I can only dream of having an actual studio with its own building and properly designed room. I wish acoustic treatment wasn't so damn expensive. Way more money than most of my audio hardware combined.

     

    I'd like to learn more about proper acoustic treatment in studio environments. I have done a fair share of reading, but completely taming a room is such a hard task.

     

    With most of us being used to the more "boomy" output of our sub setups in vehicles, it's so much different in a studio setup.

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  3. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    The driver has a fairly high Q.  You are going to get a bump in response vented, post up your sealed graph... 

     

    I'm sure it could be tamed with EQ if I decided to go vented... Either with my mixer or through an old Technics hardware EQ I have sitting around (7 bands for both the left and right channel).

     

    I'm not really sure what size I should go for with a sealed enclosure, so I just went with the suggestion on Sundown's site. The main frequencies I care about are basically where it starts to slope. Below ~30hz, not very important to me, but 30-60hz is very crucial when it comes to the music I produce.

     

    taad.png

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  6. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

     

    This is the SA-15 modeled in WinISD using a vented enclosure (single aero port) that is 4 cubes tuned to 28hz (seemed to offer the flattest response):

     

    93ix.png

     

    Modeling a sealed enclosure yields pretty poor results. Seems no matter the enclosure size, it slopes hard around 50hz. WinISD doesn't recommend using sealed or a 4th order from what I've tested. Either ported or 6th order.

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  7. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I gathered that. The design isn't terrible, in fact it is an extremely common design right now. Most manufacturers are going this route. The only difference between the surge tank system and a common overflow design is that the surge system is designed to allow for small air pockets to remain in the system without causing overheating issues while the common overflow can be encumbered if the air pocket reaches the radiator cap. The corrosion in the system isn't due to a poor design or any manufacturing flaw, it is simply shitty maintenance. You MUST flush your cooling system as recommended by Jeep every 36,000 miles. There is something about how Chrysler seasons the 4.0 block from the mid 90s onward that makes it prone to corrosion if not properly maintained. Ford 3.0 OHV engines are even worse.

     

    I would suggest that you flush the system thoroughly several times with just water until it comes out completely clear, replace your radiator AND THERMOSTAT, and use 2 bottles of Napa's #13. Flush it before installing the new radiator. You may also want to consider adding a silver anode to aid in corrosion prevention.

     

    And yes, I fix cars for a living.

     

    My radiator doesn't even have a cap. All coolant must be filled through the overflow... I'm not doubting you know about cars. I certainly don't have extensive knowledge, just going by what my friend that owns his own mechanic shop recommended. He's a family friend and definitely knows what he's doing, but he hates my jeep lol.

     

    I have flushed it with water for nearly an hour before until it eventually came out clear. The thermostat still ended up getting to hot and eventually busting after installing a new one, replacing the gasket and sealing it up.

     

    I definitely could throw a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator lol. I did it last year. You can't even see it either because I can put my grill right back over it.

     

    If it wasn't a 2WD XJ, I might consider redoing the cooling system (among other things), but I just don't feel it's worth it. The damn jeep is historical this year.

     

    EDIT:

     

    This is pretty much exactly what my engine bay looks like, though a lot cleaner. Overflow is in top left obviously. Only way to drain the radiator is through the petcock which is located in a very stupid place that's incredibly hard to reach.. otherwise there is no other access to the radiator.

    5080d1272940789-1989-cherokee-engine-pho

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  8. Posted · Edited by hatrix

     

    I wish it was that warm here. I'm tired of warming up my jeep every morning before work. My heat barely works since I had to remove the thermostat from the engine.

     

    It's not as enjoyable listening to my system when it's cold.

     

    Your thermostat is there for a reason. Put it back in, you'll thank me.

     

    I took the thermostat out for cooling reasons. Not so much a problem during winter, but during summertime my engine will overheat with a thermostat installed. To much rust build up (yes, It's been flushed many times) and the thermostat always ends up breaking and doesn't open to let coolant through.

     

    The cooling system on my 1989 jeep is a terrible design that uses an overflow tank. Without completely redoing the cooling system, taking out the thermostat resolves any overheating issues and costs me nothing.

     

    I still have heat... it just takes a long time to warm up and never gets that warm. Enough to defrost the windows so I'll live with it.

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  9. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    No I haven't, I will though.

     

    I'm not certain on sealed yet. It was just a thought as I've never built a sealed enclosure. By SQ I mean a near flat frequency response down to 30hz or so (upper cut off can be lower than 80hz, my monitors play surprisingly low) with very low or no audible distortion, good transients.

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  10. Posted

    I like building wacky disigns so I'd probably build a series tuned bandpass ,the most sensible thing to do is probably a closed box  to avoid phasing problems and a good dsp to extend the lows .

     

    that sounds ridiculous. dsp for what? boosting the low end because you designed a shitty enclosure? 

     

    Would I be loosing SQ by going above the recommend 2.5 cubes for a sealed enclosure for an SA-15 ? Will going bigger provide better low end extension ?

     

    Note I'll probably only be running 300-400 watts to the sub, if that.

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  11. Posted

    If you're that curious than building a closed box for the SA shoulnt  be that much trouble.

     

    I agree, but if I don't like how it sounds I'll be wasting money on MDF....

     

    So a sealed enclosure should provide better SQ, right ?

     

    I'd like to find out if anyone has experience with both drivers, or any driver from both E and SA series, and can comment on SQ differences between the two. Then I can determine which driver to choose for a sealed enclosure and go from there.

     

    In general, is there any difference in SQ between different size drivers ?

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  12. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I like building wacky disigns so I'd probably build a series tuned bandpass ,the most sensible thing to do is probably a closed box  to avoid phasing problems and a good dsp to extend the lows .

     

    Yea that's the thing about going sealed though... I know I'll need an EQ boost on the lows because of how high FS is.

     

    My mixer is capable of EQing without having to buy a DSP and add more processing to the audio chain, but it's low band is at 80hz...

     

    Going from a ported E8v3 to a sealed SA-15... I'm really curious what difference in output I would see. SQ wise I'm really not sure how much better it would sound.

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  13. Posted

    Currently it's like 70F and muggy outside, to boot.

     

    I wish it was that warm here. I'm tired of warming up my jeep every morning before work. My heat barely works since I had to remove the thermostat from the engine.

     

    It's not as enjoyable listening to my system when it's cold.

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  14. Posted

    Awesome looking truck swift. Get some stacks :P

     

    Seeing all these winter weather stories lately made these local weather warnings just that more hilarious

     

    That's pretty hilarious.

     

    It's going to be -4 F on Tuesday here. That's the high for the day..... Add 23mph winds and it's going to be cold as hell. Not looking forward to it. We also got about 5-6 inches of snow the other night along with high winds. Roads were terrible.

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  15. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    As I figured. Thanks for the replies.

     

    I know this isn't the proper way to run gains, I was just curious about it after having tested it.

     

    I also know clipping can be perfectly harmless... as long as it can thermally handle it.

     

    I really must say, the SSD can take some serious abuse. I never knew it could get this loud. Louder than my friends old Sundown Zv.3 18" on the same exact amp (the SAX-1200D used to be his). I still plan to eventually run two of the 18" SSDs. I'm sure it'll blow me away.

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  16. Posted · Edited by hatrix

     

    What do you do with that thing?

    If this is directed at me.... Smoke. It is a water pipe. Smoking medium ? Up to your imagination tongue.png

    Yes, I don't get out much. So when things like that are posted I am curious. How would you smoke that?

     

    Pack desired herbs into the bowl head, burn it and fill it up with some milky smoke (obviously sucking in air), pull out the bowl head from the stemless "down steam" (there isn't really a downstem, the stemless design is usually found on higher end tubes and allows for more complex perc systems), then just clear the chamber.

     

    It is meant to be hit while sitting on a flat surface, straight up and down, as are most stemless designs.

     

    Here is two vids of it:

     

     

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  18. Posted

    Is anyone located in Ohio by chance, near Akron or so ? I want to hear more systems, especially from other SSA members. Also need to start going to local events...

     

    Since you guys are posting pictures of vapes and such (I own an Arizer Extreme Q myself), I thought I'd post a picture of a recent purchase I made.

     

    Double honeycomb percs (90 holes each, lotsss of diffusion), cyclone spinning splashguard, stemless, 7mm thick glass.

     

    pxqo.jpg

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  19. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I have a small home studio which I use to produce music and also DJ. Obviously SQ is really my only concern.

     

    My studio's audio setup consists of the following components (in the spoler):

    FiiO E17 USB DAC

    Mackie MR5MKII Active Monitors

    Sundown Audio E8v3 in a 0.76 cuft net ported box tuned to 33hz using a single aero port (rear firing, sub up)

    Behringer Eurorack MX 2642A 26 input 4-bus mixing console

    Soundstorm Rave r380.2 amp, powering the E8v3 bridged @ 4 ohms (very old amp but it provides plenty of power to the E8v3 and sounds great)

    AKG K240s headphones

    Some acoustic paneling on the wall behind my desk and monitors (but not anywhere near the amount I really want)

     

    In case anyone is wondering, audio path is as follows: E17 is my DAC via USB outputting at 24bit/96k using the line out accessory (lo bypass enabled, so volume control and EQ settings don't affect the line out signal from the DAC), line out runs into a stereo input on my mixing console. Control room outputs go to my monitors, while group 1 and 2 outputs connect to the Soundstorm amp. Faders are set to unity (0dB) and gain for the stereo input is adjusted accordingly depending on the program I'm using (for example, I have Traktor set to output at -10dB, so the gain on my mixer is increased to achieve ~0dB peaks)

     

    Anyways, back on topic... I've been reading more in depth on other types of sub enclosures/designs such as IB. My priority in design is SQ. SPL is not much of a concern. An IB setup almost seems like the perfect studio subwoofer design on paper. Assuming it's correctly done, near flat frequency response, extremely low distortion, great transient response.... At least that's what I gathered from reading, but with the difficulty involved in properly designing a true IB setup, it might not be worth the effort.

     

    When I look at active studio subwoofers though, just about every design seems to be ported.

     

    My current setup with the E8v3 is very clean sounding and blends very well with my monitors. I'm very pleased with it. It gets VERY loud for being a single 8" woofer (enough to rattle the walls in my house with ease), and it extends very low. I don't hear any noticeable drop in output until under 35hz.

     

    Now if I'm pleased with my current setup, you may ask why try to change it ? Well normally I wouldn't bother, but I have an SA-15 D2 sitting in my room unused and was wondering if it could offer better SQ than my current setup, and if so what box design would be ideal for my goal ? Sealed doesn't seem like a very good option considering the FS of the driver. Also, I'm a bit clueless when it comes to bandpass designs.

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  20. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    how many ft3 is that box in the pic?

     

    I believe around ~6-6.5 or so. I don't know the exact number unfortunately, a friend got it for me in a trade. Switching from my old 9 cube box, I have a much flatter frequency response. My old box cut off pretty hard above 60hz or so.

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  21. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I have a pretty simple question regarding use of the remote gain knob for my SAX-1200D.

     

    Say I turn the gain on my amp all the way up to max. Obviously not recommended. However, if my remote gain is only set to... lets say 1/4 of the way up, would my sub still be at risk of high clipping and bad distortion ?

     

    From what I've read, the remote gain is just what it's name implies, a quick and easy way to turn up or down the gain without having to fiddle with the amp itself.

     

    So if that's the case, even if the amps gain is set to max but the remote only 1/4 the way up, it should be the same as running the amp itself at 1/4 gain, correct ?

     

    Now I've been testing this out lately, running the amps gain at max but keeping the remote gain very low. My SSD 18" seems to handle it perfectly fine, though around my max volume it seems as though the sub has veryyy slight distortion. I have yet to smell any burning coil even after extended use at high volumes. It does not sound like it's reaching its mechanical limit either.

     

    What confuses me though is how much louder it is compared to my previous gain setting. I had the amps gain set around 3/4 of the way up. Remote gain was always kept up all the way unless I needed to turn it down (however it had a dead zone slightly past half way where my sub no longer increased in volume, which seems to confirm that it can never EXCEED the amps set gain, only allowing adjustment equal to or lower than the amps gain setting).

     

    What am I not understanding here ?.....

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  22. Posted

     

     

     

    I have a single 18" Fi SSD in a 1989 Cherokee powered by a SAX-1200D. I plan to add another one down the road, but for now it's pretty darn loud.

    Have any pics of your set up?

     

    Sure:

    002irr.jpg

     

     

    This was before I had ran my remote wire, that's the black wire sitting there:

    001ngd.jpg

     

    The plastic grills on my doors have been removed so my woofers are visible (along with their own grills), picture is a little old:

    008pui.jpg

     

    53h8.jpg

     

    Yea, some pics are a little dated but not too much has changed besides the door grills I mentioned and running my remote wire properly. I'm also aware my box says "Sundown Audio" yet I run a Fi SSD. I got the box in a trade (original box I built was 9cuft !), it was built by someone else. Still matches IMO as I run an SAX-1200D.

     

     

    I hope you cleaned up those power and ground wires going into the Sundown amp.

     

     

    I have. I've done a lot of misc cleaning up since most of those pictures, just no big changes. Redid grounds, redid all connections etc.

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  23. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I have a small home studio as I produce EDM and also DJ.

     

    For monitoring when I can't have the volume up, my AKG K240 Studios do the job fantastically. They have a very impressive midrange, but lack a bit on the low end. Nothing some EQing can't fix to suit my tastes.

     

    I can wear them for 8+ hours without them feeling uncomfortable. I power them with a FiiO E17 USB DAC. 24bit/96k smile.png

     

    Of course, producing/mixing on headphones is not the optimal choice if I can use my studio monitors + subwoofer at a decent volume. I will always choose those over my AKGs. Come night time though, K240s are still very welcome.

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  24. Posted · Edited by hatrix

    I have a single 18" Fi SSD in a 1989 Cherokee powered by a SAX-1200D. I plan to add another one down the road, but for now it's pretty darn loud.

    Have any pics of your set up?

     

    Sure:

    002irr.jpg

     

     

    This was before I had ran my remote wire, that's the black wire sitting there:

    001ngd.jpg

     

    The plastic grills on my doors have been removed so my woofers are visible (along with their own grills), picture is a little old:

    008pui.jpg

     

    53h8.jpg

     

    Yea, some pics are a little dated but not too much has changed besides the door grills I mentioned and running my remote wire properly. I'm also aware my box says "Sundown Audio" yet I run a Fi SSD. I got the box in a trade (original box I built was 9cuft !), it was built by someone else. Still matches IMO as I run an SAX-1200D.

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