mr.sagat

That looks sweet, you ought to check it out for the sake of letting the forum know how it performs.

Since it is just streetbeat you don't have to worry too much about your vehicles resonant frequency. So, you don't really need any tools for tuning..... Just a computer program like bassbox pro 6. But, I don't know where you can get that at

that's nice for a first setup. You should really make your own box. You'll feel good about it when you hear something you made. Also, it could also help you earn money on the side once you get it down. I don't even try to market myself in my town, but I've made 4 boxes for locals in the last couple of months. Free money...lol

That amp is a joke, but those subs are some serious stuff for that price. Those subs are supposedly built just like treo ssx's... What about these all out spl only subs or daily pounders? 2- Memphis Mojo Maxx 15's (Competition Subs) Those are straight up spl. I got a friend running 3 regular mojos and they don't sound too terrible. Those look like a whole different monster though. Those seem sick, but I doubt they'll take 4000 rms unless they have a 4 inch voice coil. 3000 watt boss amps for $600 Boss Audio Amplifiers 3000 watts each

Thats what I was thinking, but will making the port area bigger make the frequency its tuned for higher or lower? higher

I used to be a store manager for autozone and actually talked to the manufacturer of optimas (johnson controls). The starting blue top is a ton better for what you need then the deep cycle marine version. The deep cycle marine will have trouble accepting a high amperage charge from your vehicle. The battery was meant to be completely drained and slowly recharged at about 10 amps or less. One of the best things about autozone was that when everyone returned/swapped an optima I would put the optima on a slow charge for a day and usually bring them back to life. I would then have a good optima without an owner, so I'd resell it to myself or whoever wanted an optima for $20!!!!!! LOL I would say the starting marine battery is similar to the yellowtop. The yellowtop is classified as a deep cycle, but it is a lot more forgiving about accepting high amperage charges than the blue top deep cycle. If you ever run across the D31T is the optima that'd be best for audio imo.

Here's a few pics of the family Boxer Betty. Pretty solid for a Boxer, he weighed in at 85 the last time he went to the vet. You have to excuse the scraggly ass couch, that is completely his. LOL

I'm sure it will Denim. I've always wanted an Adire Audio Tumult. After looking and reading on the Xcon, it seems like she should perform like a Tumult on steroids. hahaha

Some backstory about me..... OK, I've been into audio for a few years. I always ran what the locals consider inferior or off brand subs. There's just something great about running paper cone house subs (adire audio shivas) and beating everyone in town in the spl comps I wanted to improve on my previous score of 148.7 on the dash using 2 shivas. (The meter was a terrasonde xmeter that I suspect measures about 6-8 db higher than a TL) I ran 2 S15L7's for about a year and only hit a 150.5 on that same meter. I was still the loudest person in town, but I know in the spectrum of spl comps, that setup was a joke. I decided to build a wall that summer. Well, after some trial and error and testing using my meter, I ended up running a Concept CSP 18 and hit a 152.8 on the dash using my Coustic rta 33. One of my goals has been to do a hair trick with a single sub, The concept was decent but never did it to well. I thought I needed more of a ""SQL"" sub that was more sensitive and moved air. I got my hands on an old RE SX 18. The SX was good, but the lows to me just wern't enough. Now I'm running a better amp, have smoothed out my port, glassed the inside, made sure everything is sealed, including the wall and the actual enclosure. If the xcon does not move hair, I know it has to be my install, not the sub. The car is a 1985 Nissan 300zx Turbo 2 seater. All my setups have been low tuned, ground pounder wannabe setups. Anyway here is what my new setup is... Wall behind seats 9.0 cubes with 117 sq inches of port tuned to 34 hz. Port about 4 inches from passenger headrest. My RF is 43hz A3000DB @ .5 ohm. Xcon 18" D1 Optima yellow top under hood with Semi truck commercial grade battery with a run of 4/0 and 1/0 on amp connection. 90 amp alt with big 3. IMO if this setup doesn't pound like crazy and move hair, then my problem has to be in my lack of a good charging system or my wall. Well, I have all summer and a Coustic RTA 33 spl meter to tweak with. I am hoping I could eventually get this setup close to a 150 on the term lab. I'm gonna be happy to have a great low pounding monster of a sub to work with. Do any of you know how many db's higher a coustic rta 33 reads over the termlab? I'm thinking about 5-7 db @ the 150 range, but I don't really know.....

I would think it should be around 2500-3000ish @ .5 ohm for a short time period. For Daily Driving I will easy on the xcon, and I doubt that she'll get any serious power for extended periods. Pasmag had an article about 5 years ago where they clamped an A3000DB and it made 2240 RMS @ 1 ohm. I believe the voltage was in the high 13's for that test. The one thing about the A3000DB I figured out is that it does around 1000 RMS @ 2 ohms. I was running my shivas in a slot port box facing backwards with the port shooting on my hatch glass. Running a JL 500/1 I hit a 145.9. I then switched the amp out to the A3000DB and I hit a 148.7. I've always heard that if you effectively double your power, you gain 3dbs. I gained 2.8 db over the JL. The JL had to be putting out a clean 500 watts, since it has that regulated power supply that is not affected by ohm load or voltage. I originally wanted a Crunch GP3000DPro, but the A3000DB was only $169 factory refurb, so I couldn't pass it up. Another nice thing about them is that plenty of people run them @ .5 ohm daily with no problems. When I hit the 152.8 on the coustic, I was using a PA BAMF 5500D. Not a cool amp at all. Very overrated like 99% of PA's stuff, and only put out about 1500-1700 watts from what I understand. The A3000DB isn't the baddest thing ever made, but I'd put money on it out benching any amp that is in the same price range.