mr.sagat

hmm I like the setup Just an idea bro, but I bet you'll be louder if you flip the box to where the slot port is at the top, with subs and port facing backwards. Also you should put your eyes on the port and make sure that top part doesn't have flex at high volume. That's a long port just to have one brace. You will usually lose output if she moves, and the box is more likely to break loose and rattle if there is constant flex.

Cool bro, I'm running a couple of opti 15's in one of my rides. I have a wall, 150 termlab is one of my goals, don't know if I'm really there though. I hit a 154.2 sealed on the dash, but that's a coustic rta 33 (og iasca meter)

You used to run opti's? On what amp, and what did you hit?

I'm not gonna lie, I doubted he hit a 150. With your setup the exact way it is right now, you could've gone to the usaci world finals last year and placed 2nd in the 0-1000 trunk class. With some fine tuning, an spl box and a .5 ohm load, you might of had a decent shot of winning it. Real talk, with your setup, you can go to some comps with trunk classes and rep hard.

looks good, where is you port at?

I'm not the biggest fan of rap, but I do have trae's restless album. I got a lac, of course I have to bump it

Impious, Does the massive being quad voice coil manipulate the ratings any? What I mean, is massive getting that inflated sensitivity rating from powering all four voice coils with 1 watt each? Or is the sub wired in parallel and only give one watt to distribute to all four coils?

You want to hook the battery up to your main battery under the hood. Run a power wire or two between them. Ground the trunk battery on something solid, like a strut tower bolt. Make sure it's on bare metal too, sand it, grind it, whatever it takes. Then primer over what bare metal you're not using, rust is a bitch...

You don't have to prep the mdf, just make sure it's clean. That 3m stuff will work fine, there is a heavy duty version of that I use. If you got the ability, clamping it works well. I don't have access to clamps, so I use a 18 gauge nail gun with wood glue and that works perfect for me. The key is giving the glue time t fully cure. Of course use some silicone on the inside to make sure everything is sealed. I make sub holes after box assembly, but there are two downfalls to that. 1. It makes the box, a mdf dust heaven 2. If you mess up on the sub cut, you're screwed. If you cut out for the sub before assembly, you don't have to worry about either of those. Running just the 8, you'll be fine with regular cheap terminals..

Where are you gettin optimas for $30? I found a stinger SP2150 on Clist the guy is asking $300 I think its 91 ah Is that even a good buy used for $300? $300 for a used battery?? You can get a new one for $340 shipped. Anyway, the cheap battery trick has to do with the manufacturing date. All batteries made by Johnson controls will have a round sticker on them showing the date of manufacture. Find one at an Auto part store that is one year old or older in manufacture. Most Auto chains will not sell you this battery at retail if the worker is educated in any type of business practices. When the battery is over a year old, they have a choice of sending it back, (just to be rebuilt) or selling it as a "used" battery. Instead of losing out on all money, they will change the sku number on the "old battery" to a used battery and sell it to you. I know for a fact Autozone does this (I was store manager at 2 stores) and O'Rielly's too. If you live by a low volume store just go in one day, ask them about used batteries, look at some manufacture dates, see what you can come up with. Another neat battery that chains have you could get "used", is the Mazda Miata battery. Really cute, really small, perfect for a clean simple install with little power. I'm actually buying another D31 from O'reilly's today and will gladly take pics and post a receipt if people don't believe companies do this....

From my experiences, regular lead cell d31's do better than the optima d31's. For some reason when spiral cells are discharged they are tempermental at accepting a high amperage charge where lead cells could care less. Downsides of lead cell d31's are that most of them have to be vented, they don't take as much vibration as spiral cells, and failure from internal plate corrosion is inevitable over a few years.... To put it in perspective, I can get optimas for $30, and D31's for $35. My nissan used to be 2 optimas, but now I run 2 D31's.

Shivas?? Is that a MKIV? I used to run two of those and was pretty damn loud with them at the time. Please put that baby in that air conditioned place called your house, then feed her about 300 watts in a transmission line Shivas don't deserve to be left in the summer heat...

I think the crazy 8 install was actually in a single cab ranger, crazy.....huh? To OP, I think I got you beat, I just installed my L7 15 on my man throne, I got her wired to one ohm and ready for a wall socket burp

Boo, liar. It was Sean Belanger, Jake have done that but with 2 8's. years ago there was a competition they used to have called "crazy 8's" where people ran single 8 setups. I remember someone actually getting a 150 out of a L7.

I'd run the box location in the 2nd picture. Since your running sealed run sub facing backwards. God, the worst thing about Arkansas is no Costco. I love that place, all bulk items I like like egg whites and Salmon, and they cook pretty good pizza for the price You basically got the box idea down, as for poly fill if you do decide to run it, don't worry about some mathematical fill formula, stick a decent bit in there and go by what your ears hear in terms of likes and dislikes. Big deal, if it doesn't sound to your liking, just pull out the sub, re stuff the box and tweak from there

I'm really considering entering some local usaci comps next year. After seeing what the "competition" is like, I think I would do surprisingly well. The state record in the class I'm thinking about entering is only a 149.....

Backhanded compliment I love the Xcon. I did finally get the Optis louder then the Xcon. I had to brace the mess out of it, seal the car up, and remove my visors. The loudest I got on the dash with the Xcon to was 153.9 @ 43hz with the windows down. The opti's sealed were doing a 154.2, with the windows down a 155.4, both @ 42hz. These were metered on my Coustic RTA 33 which I believe reads about 4-6 db higher than a term lab. It's tough to gauge the stiffness of my meter, since I've only been to one competition using a TL and the only gauge I had of the TL's stiffness was my own eyes, ears, and body while getting demos.

If you got that from a sweep, you have more potential there. Next time play the sweep at a lower volume, so you don't kill your voltage and find out your loudest frequency. After that is found give a few seconds for the batts to get juiced and let her rip with a burp at that frequency. Don't roll the volume though, just pause/unpause and let her rip... Since your saying a small toyota sedan, I'm gonna guess a newer body style Corolla with the seats down....

I have heard a million times that running one voice coil on a sub with multiple coils is wrong. I read an article by Adire Audio years ago and they actually suggested running on one voice coil in certain situations. I also remember that running one VC while "shorting" out the second VC would change woofer characteristics, I believe it raises QTS if I remember correctly. I understand that it would basically halve the power handling of the sub. What else does it do? The article also says something about a sub with 300 watts wasting 298 watts as heat, and only using around 2 as musical energy. Are speakers really, that inefficient? Here's the article if some of you want a good read.. Powered by Google Docs

I was thinking you should get a LS. For the sake that if you owned an LS and ran a trunk class, you could legally lower your seat, right? The only thing that sucks is that you'd have a couple of trunk cars so you'd be limited to those classes. What about a cheap mid 90's town car walled off? It'd be an investment and the rear air bag suspension would need work, but I think walled cars are awesome cosmetically speaking

run it to one of the bolts at the strut tower if you can. You can usually access the rear ones or front ones, and those are always hella solid on vehicles..

Are you stuck on town cars or have you thought about purchasing different lincoln models?

braking? Who needs to be safe??!! haha Those wheels hurt your acceleration and probably offset your speedo, get a programmer to calibrate your speedo and gain some power to at least get your car back to stock acceleration levels Those wheels look good man

You could do it, but you'd have to isolate the 16 volt system. 16 volts isn't usually 16 volts. The resting voltage on a 16 volt system is usually around 17.2 so the 16 volt "charge" from your 2nd alt would have to be higher than that. For comparison the resting voltage on a 12 volt system is usually around 12.6 and the charge to is is high 13's into the 14's.....

This is killing me. Let me add to this idiocy.... THE GROUND ZERO PLUTONIUM OWNS ALL diameter: 38 cm / 15" power handling: 5.000 WRMS impedance: 4 x 1 ohm voice coil: 100 mm / 4" flat wire excursion: X max. 50 mm / 2" resonance frequency: FS 32 Hz SPL 2.83 V/m: 91,5 dB additional: VOXR surround triple spider Here's two in a prefab sealed box trunk setup with stock electrical http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cehlpFxQgC0&feature=related