mr.sagat

dude, if a 100 pound setup is making your car lower itself, the problem is the car, not the setup. A full tank of gas should weigh around 80 pounds in your car. Seems to me toyota would of made the car good enough to at least support a tank of gas (80) pounds without sagging, and some random groceries and whatnot in the trunk (another 40) That's around 120 pounds. So your car should support half a tank of gas and a sub box without a problem.....

South Arkansas's roads are notoriously sorry. Instead of patching holes and cracks, most of the time they put gravel over it for about 10 to 15 feet. It's so retarded when they do it on a curve. That's just asking for an accident. I can't drive to the local lake, the paved road has holes even after they dropped gravel over it. it's a miracle my oil pan is still intact. My buddy's talon busted his oil pan a few years ago driving in town, yeah our roads are that bad.

ahh....it's 2100 @ 1 ohm versus 950 x 2 @ 2 ohms. Either amp is a good purchase, and I'd say the audioque is a higher quality product, but the audiopipe might end up lasting longer than the audioque since your pushing the audioque to her limits and the audiopipe will be coasting at a lil over half her output.

The audiopipe makes 950 rms @ 2 ohms on each of it's channels. It's a two channel amp. So with a 2 ohm voicecoil per channel you'll get around 1900 to your sub. If you want maximum power put of the audiopipe, she has to be @ 2 ohms bridged or with each of the two channels @ 1 ohm. In all seriousness, with your setup, you'll be using the audipipe at about half potential, and it does close to the same of the audioque when the audioque is at it's optimum output level.

wow, nice. get us some pics, we'll get you a rides page. I got a few pics in the photography section. It's very ugly Let me paint it, clean it, my interior and my car, and retake some pictures tomorrow and I'll be glad to have my setup on the rides page.

Everything I've read about the audiopipe has it doing really good numbers. @ 7.5 ohms and 12.5 volts it's been tested around 1500 watts. So, you lower that ohm load some and give her 14.4 volts It should do a solid 3,000 watts when you get the ohm load lower. Your single sub with dual 2 ohm coils really isn't optimal for the audiopipe though. If you want to get 3k out of it, she needs to be bridged @ 2 ohms or have two 1 ohm channels. You can't do neither. With your voice coil config, she is supposed to put out 1900 RMS if I recall correctly.

I've read the Audioque does around 2100 @ 1 ohm with around 14.4-14.8 going to it. Here's the guts. Looks kind of "mickey mouse" to me. Just saying in terms of budget amps, the Audiopipe walks all over it, and the Audioque is equivalent or weaker than the A3000DB that cost around $250 shipped. A3000DB guts, they bench around 2250 @ 1 ohm with 13 volts going to it and will play .5 ohm all day...... only good amp Power Acoustik ever made.

6 and 9 are sick

i was on all last night tryin to find amps and the only ones i could find in my price range were the audiopipe 3000.1 and i havent heard much about them good or bad. on top of that im really not a fan of the tacky looks.lol Audipipe 3000.1 is STOUT for the price. It's actually two 1500.1's strapped together. She does her rated power according to the "clamping tests" post I've read in the past. It's a lot stronger than the AQ2200, a decent bit stronger than the a3000DB, but a lil weaker than the Crunch GP3000Pro. Here's the guts, for $300 she's a monster.

I'll take some pics tomorrow and post them

just get you a cheap amp that is .5 ohm stable

I installed and metered my Xcon 18" today. I hit a 153.9 @ 43hz running one of my amps @ .5 ohm. Amp was 1/2 way with no bass knob and bass boost turned off. The sub will hopefully get louder as she breaks in. The meter I used is a Coustic RTA 33. It's frustrating as hell, because I am in the dark about how it compares to the term lab. I'm hopin to tweak her some, and get mid 150's out of her with two of my amps strapped. My goal is hair tricks and a real Termlab 150. Hopefully by the end of this summer I'll know if this setup can do that. If it can't, I'll redo my wall and run about 250 sq inches of port instead of the 117 I have now.

Dude, seriously..... Duran wasn't bragging, it's just that your setup was not setup right and he was trying to point that out. Variables? LOL Yeah, but come on.....I have a huge Cadillac Deville with two 300 watt rms 12's and a $169 amp, and mine will hit higher numbers than 135 on the dash....

yeah, but I put it on the outside to get rid of water spots. It smears like crazy

This is no major thing, I was just looking on this page for the Xcon 18 box cutouts, and noticed you guys had the diameter for the 15's cutout listed as the 18's. SSA Xcon 18" Sub woofer1750rms 31mm Xmax

ok, I put your info in and came up with 2.15 cubes after displacement. You might have forgot that port space eats up usable box Port length needs to be 12.75 inches for an exact 32 hz tuning...

My calcs were made using 3/4 inch mdf, that's the problem....

I ran it through the program I use and it looks good to me. I'm coming up with 31.95 hz in my mock up. My only difference to yours was that my internal volume as slightly higher at first. You might be having extra bracing or a beefier sub then I mocked with.

Just install a fuse that is equal to or a little higher than the alt's max amperage. The fuse isn't there to limit the charge from your alt, it's there in case something goes wrong. The fuse will burn out and there will be no signal past the burned fuse. Lets say a fender bender occurs that crushes your alt power wire in between a metal fender and engine block. Well, that huge wire you just installed is now making direct contact with the ground of the car. Without a fuse to pop, You can guarantee there will be a fire.

Kicker > Alpine fixed Alpine > Kicker NOTE: From personal experience Judging by specs alone, type R's will not get as loud as L7's The L7's have more cone area, are more sensitive and handle more watts. The type r's do have more xmax, but that isn't the deciding factor. On another note, I'd like to say that I've ran L7 15's before and didn't think too highly of them, but I think mostly my install was the mistake, not the sub choice.

The older Crunch ground pounders. They used to be around $110 shipped. I know two ground pounder 15's hit a 155 in an spl setup, with each sub getting over 3k a burp, If I recall correctly. If that isn't what you want then overpower the mess out of some L7 kickers.

whoa, misinformation? I used to be an AC and DC Electrician on 12/24 and 110/220 volt systems. I had to take American Boat and Yacht council exams about these things. LOL I've also got a two ASE Certifications in automotive. I'm not saying that the grounds on the big 3 are not important, they just make less of an impact than the power wire can. If cars had 10 gauge grounds, then that would make a HUGE difference. But they don't. They usually have 4 or 6 gauge and it's a short run at that. (less than 18 inches on my Cadillac) What I am trying to say is this. If you're going from a 6 gauge to a 1/0 ground you are about doubling the thickness of the wire for all of it's 18 inches of length. If you have a 10 gauge alt wire and add a 1/0 alt wire you are more than tripling the diameter of the wire and your doing it for it's whole length, which is almost always longer than the grounds.

yeah dude, sorry for such a lengthy post. If I was doing this in a ship and followed ABYC standards, I'd have to make the ground equal size or larger than the power wire. But this is the real world, and I can assure you you'll be just fine making the 1/0 ground.

The 2 wires I already have are one 1/0 and one 2/0( the bigger one). Which one to use for what grounds ? "the next plosest point" : so, I should not use any point from the engine block ? You think I need to go close to the alternator. MR Sagat : you think the alt(+) to batt (+) is the most important part to do ? I'm surprised. I thought this stock wire should be at the good size for the stock alternator. I don't have no high output aftermarket alt. Let's think of it this way. We have a completely stock car with no audio at all. The starting system on a car may drain 100-150 amps when you "start her up" That may be about 3 or 4 foot of 6 gauge in the worst case scenario and is only used for a few seconds. The alt on the other hand, will have about 6 foot of 10 gauge in the best case scenario. The alt might be rated for 130 amps, and in a stock car scenario that is fine. The alt is usually never under high loads, and the only thing that even begins to strains a stock cars charging system is a weak, or discharged battery. So the stock alt never really gets abused like it would in car audio. In audio that alt might be putting her max amperage through her power wire as long as it runs and your beating the block down. Ok, lets go back to the stock alt wire, I said in the best case scenario it's 10 gauge right? The max amperage on the alt it's connected to is 130. That is the same as a 1500-1600 rms amplifier. Everyone knows that a 1600 rms amp needs more than 10 gauge. You get what I'm saying? In case you wondering how I converted the amperage over to wattage, I used a formula. (Amperage x Voltage = wattage)

It's just my opinion man, but with that kind of system in a car trunk, it's gonna be damn near impossible to get the car rattling out. If you build a wall like I suggested, you'd could run a lot bigger box with a lot bigger port that would be pressurizing a smaller section of the car. Car rattles from the trunk area, would be reduced greatly since there shouldn't be any pressure there. I couldn't see myself using 5,000 watts in a daily driver, let alone a trunk setup. If that is your amp and your charging system, then use it to it's full potential. If you can get 5k out of the amp, then your limiting factors are still your subs and box of the install. To take those out of the equation, build a wall and run subs that are low end monsters, and try to run a lot of cone area. 4 18's in a wall has always been something I wanted to do. If you look on youtube most of the guys doing hair tricks have either a wall or a ton of cone area, sometimes both. If you just have to use a trunk setup, find a way to make a bandpass setup and have the port coming up the back dash. Those setups are sexy If you get another car and it's based on loudness, get a van, station wagon or suv please