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mr.sagat

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Posts posted by mr.sagat

  2. Posted

    It's not the straight up best or anything, but that amp is very well suited for you. I know some people get away with giving s15l7's over 1000 daily with no problems, but for the average street system, the 750 will do great....

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  3. Posted · Edited by mr.sagat

    I was thinking there might be a couple of other reasons you are missing your lows. One of them is that your running less cone area, the other is that the f3 of your past sealed enclosure is lower than the f3 of your ported enclosure. So, I'm guessing around 27hz and lower, your old sealed setup doesn't lose output as fast as your ported setup does. You said you don't have a subsonic filter, so you are probably playing some serious low frequencies on certain songs...

    Just like ported is usually louder than a comparable sealed setup, the sealed setup will usually have a flatter output curve and will usually drop lower than a ported enclosures. I know true home audiophiles sometimes dabble with huge sealed enclosures and I'm guessing great and clean low end extension is why...

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  6. Posted

    I'm sure that 18 will get down with very little power. But, that being said, the 15's will have more flexibility in terms of future installs in different vehicles, voice coil configs and selling them locally in the future. Most people aren't too familiar with Dayton subs, I know they're good (I've wanted a Titanic forever) but those Powerbass's will be a easier sell to the average guy if you ever choose to do so.

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  7. Posted · Edited by mr.sagat

    What's your limit of speaker size???

    Here's a pair of 15's and a amp that falls into your range.

    This setup will have more cone area than the 18 and the amp is stronger and still CEA certified...

    http://www.vminnovations.com/product_4263/Soundstream_PCX2_540_540W_2_Channel_Amplifier.html

    PowerBass PB-C156Dv.2 (pbc156dv2) - 15" Subwoofers - Sonic Electronix

    two 15's and the soundstream would run you $220 shipped...

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  9. Posted · Edited by mr.sagat

    That's crazy. It has to be some type of low resistance battery and cap hybrid I would figure. I don't trust things like that, but I've never tried one. I wonder how long it takes to charge and discharge.

    I do remember there was a spl oriented amp a long time ago called the "drag queen" That stored huge amounts of power. The amp was eventually banned from competition. This was a 10,000 watt amp (20,000 WATT BURST) in 2000, so SHE WAS A MONSTER OF EPIC PROPORTIONS

    Harrison Labs 10,000watt "Drag Queen" amp, anyone using this ? - CARSOUND.COM Forum

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  10. Posted

    Everyone and their mom knows about it, but it still blows my mind how 13 6x9's hit a 169.

    I was simply posting how easy it is to claim someone elses numbers to prove a point.

    Really? I never would of guessed that....

    Your imaginary setup just reminded me of real numbers with low tier setups, that's all. I wasn't acknowledging your setup it in my post

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  13. Posted

    Put tape on the backside of the foam, then rubber cement it from the front. After it dries take off the tape.

    Superglue stiffens up the foam too much.

    My adire audio shivas were banged up with random holes and rubber cement worked better than anything else I tried...

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  14. Posted

    I'm confused with the team name.

    The team is called decent, like average, so-so

    The word descent,has the definition of attack or appearance (Sudden disconcerting appearance)

    imo Descent is a sick team name. I don't know which the team implies but your team is loud as hell either way :fing34:

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  21. Posted · Edited by mr.sagat

    also would it be better to ground the amp to the rear battery or to the strut tower

    Ground the amp to the rear battery and if you can run that to the strut tower.

    Jon, I would really like to hear your rebuttal as to why the strut tower is not a good place for a ground.

    These are some of my reasons as to why I believe it's superior.

    1. You are getting a more solid connection because that part of a unibody is of a thicker gauge metal than random places in the rear.

    Thin metal, or thick, I wonder which one is preferred???

    2. A 3/8 inch ring terminal on a strut tower is a million times less likely to break loose than using some stock number 10 screw on the body.

    3. You don't have to worry about some newbie ruining his gas tank by carelessly drilling and tapping screws in the trunk.

    Please don't let your rebuttal include anything about wire length. That is a moot point when the length may only increased by a foot or two, and is negated by the superior ground location.

    I kinda know what I'm talking about. I got multiple ASE certifications, and for a living I'm a DC electrician on ships and am extremely close to getting my first ABYC certification.

    woot.jpg

    Here's a control panel I did with circuit breakers and starter switches.... but I'm sure you got credentials too my friend....

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  23. Posted · Edited by mr.sagat

    Yeah, some ups workers have no respect for packages.

    I've got 2 15's in a few years ago, and the mdf boxes were broken in the corners and the baskets were broken on the subs.

    Nice to know Scott got you covered. Great customer service, thats what's up :)

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  25. Posted

    hmm I like the setup

    Just an idea bro, but I bet you'll be louder if you flip the box to where the slot port is at the top, with subs and port facing backwards.

    Also you should put your eyes on the port and make sure that top part doesn't have flex at high volume. That's a long port just to have one brace. You will usually lose output if she moves, and the box is more likely to break loose and rattle if there is constant flex.

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