mr.sagat
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Posts posted by mr.sagat
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You got to be able to get to it without pulling the engine. I'm sure you'll have to uninstall the alternator, but that's no biggie. If you have to remove parts, you can remove the fans and radiator to get access? That'd be a good thing ot an extent, then you could hit two birds with one stone and perform a coolant flush. If your running anywhere near 4k, your car and amp are gonna be in a world of hurt. I run around 2500 watts in my car, with 2 18 wheeler batteries and I have to limit my stop light bass mekanik sessions as it is. With 4k on your setup, whoa!!!!!
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When using BBP6, don't go by what it recommends. Mine is usually retarded with it's likes/dislikes. Also, make sure the T/S specs in BBP6 are set the same units type as the btl specs you are entering. What I mean is, make sure they are metric or american. Just click where the spec is listed, to change it's unit type
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if the stud on the back of the alt is big enough piggyback the big 3 wire on it,then run her to the battery. AKA use both wires. That way you have more wire to play with, and you are not changing stock wiring in any way. Can you do that? That's usually how the big 3 is done anyway...
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Your alt power wire might have a fusible link in it, but I've never seen one that runs to a solenoid. Your starter solenoid should have a power wire from your battery and a smaller wire that goes to your ignition, but nothing alt related..... What kind of vehicle do you have? I'm guessing it's something with front wheel drive???
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Get your hands on a fsm for you car and figure out what the wires do, and when they have power and why. There is a very good chance that those terminals are supposed to have voltage in a key off situation. The fact that you say this occurs during a left turn leaves me to believe that you have a bare wire grounding on your chassis somewhere. 11.34 volts is low for resting voltage so there is a load.
Since you're blowing fuses on that circuit, either the ecm is shorted and causing a load or the orange/black wire is shorted.
Here's a few things I would do...
Unplug the Ecm. Get the wiring harness and put the dmm on the continuity setting. With no fuse being in the circuit, put one dmm prong on the orange/black at the ecm connector and ground the other dmm prong on the vehicle chassis. If there is continuity, then the wire is shorted and grounding out. If there is no continuity, then the ecm for one reason or another is pulling an obscene load on the circuit and causing it to blow fuses. Which would lead me to believe the ecm is bad or something that piggybacks power from the ecm is shorted.
I have ASE certifications and was a DC Electrician for a few years at a shipyard. So, I know a little about wiring. But, the FSM will tell you and teach you a lot more than I could even begin to know. Get your hands on one somehow
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cool man, no problem about the help.
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When he connects the head unit with a constant 12v source he said it still powers up. So the fuse for the head unit has to be good...
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Most automobile manuals have an emergency section where they list the fuses and their location..
From searching it seems under the driver side dash there are some fuses.
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fuse blocks are usually under the hood or in the driver side kick panel. There is usually a cover, when you pull the cover there is a sticker that will tell you what fuse fuses what circuit. The stereo fuse will usually be a 10 or a 15 amp fuse.
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i really appreciate u working with me.
no spark from the yellow wire. I also looked in my manual but could not find a stereo fuse.
No spark even with your ignition on? I can almost promise you that when you grounded out that wire, you blew the fuse that fuses it. Just google search it, or find out which fuse it is one way or another and replace the fuse for it What is your vehicle?
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Look at your fuses for the stereo fuse and make sure it's not blown or get a dmm and measure dc voltage coming out of it, or carefully and quickly brush the wire with a vehicle ground, if it sparks, it's got power. Option 3 is ghetto, but I've been known to do it for a quick test.
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have you checked to make sure you didn't blow a fuse? What i mean is, the wire that connects to the yellow wire, does it still get any power?
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Good God.... Half way through these pictures I had to put on earplugs.
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Any thoughts on which one of these 15" subs would be helpful. RE Audio SE '08 series aluminum spoke basket design---OR---Oz Audio Matrix Elite series??? Both of these are the same price which makes it even more difficult to choose. Looking for SQ so it will be going into a sealed box. Both are 4 ohm dvc wired to a 2 ohm load as my amp is only 2 ohm stable (boston acoustics gt-28 1100x1 @ 2 ohms)
I run a 2006 RE SE 15. I will say that it has really good sq. The SE sounds "sterile" to me. There's really no frequency that is nonexistent or too loud. Alot of that is obviously in my install, but I don't see why you wouldn't be happy with the RE. I never heard any OZ audio subs to compare to though. I heard they were good.
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Dude, if your gonna run power acoustik, get the A3000DB. I promise you it's a stronger amp, and it's a lot more reliable than the 5500's.
LOL at people suggesting the Soundstream Rubicon to replace a PA. PA owns Soundstream, and the Rubicon is made on the same assembly line in Korea as all PA amps are. I do think the 2500 Rubicon is a more reliable and a little stronger than the A3000DB but is it a better value? Not even close. You can get 2 a3000db's for the price of one Rubicon.
Cows make hotdogs, but they also make Kobe steaks.
PA doesnt own Soundstream, the company that owns PA also owns Soundsteam. Which means nothing.
PA owns Soundstream. PA is also know as Epsilon Electronics which is the parent company. Look on this business page, and you will see that the website for Epsilon is PowerAcoustik.com and in parentheses by the company name it says Power Acoustik electronics.
Epsilon Electronics, Inc - Montebello, California (CA) | Company Profile
Here is the Soundstreams website contact info for
Mexico Sales
PA LAREDO INC
1011 LINCOLN. SUITE 5
LAREDO, TX 78040
Email: palaredo@hotmail.com
It says PA... I wonder what that means?
Here's Soundstreams contact info for the South American sales rep.
Exclusive Venezuela Sales
Dist. El Sonido Srl
pacoustik@hotmail.com
Person of contact: Luis Bello
Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela
Wow, look at his email. Power Acoustik? LOL
If PA was not the parent company like you claim, they would be using Epsilon Electronics as contact info, not PA Electronics. What I'm trying to tell you is that PA and Epsilon are the same company, and that company owns Soundstream.
Let's forget they are also made on the same assembly line, by the same people, sometimes using the same components and boards. If you saw A3000DB amp guts compared to the SS Picasso 2000D you'd know it's the same thing. Only difference is that the mosfets on the PA are not at 90 degree angles like the soundstreams are. That's an improvement in the Power Acoustik. I guess the hot dog is superior to the kobe steak in that situation, who would've thought...
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I've never been on fake turf. How does it feel compared to real grass?
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I'm sure you'll be happy with IA, but in defense of Memphis, the Mojo is a really good driver as long as it's not for a strictly sq install. If it didn't hit the notes that you wanted, it was probably the rest of the install that limited the mojo's capabilities.
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I have heard a million times that running one voice coil on a sub with multiple coils is wrong. I read an article by Adire Audio years ago and they actually suggested running on one voice coil in certain situations. I also remember that running one VC while "shorting" out the second VC would change woofer characteristics, I believe it raises QTS if I remember correctly. I understand that it would basically halve the power handling of the sub. What else does it do? The article also says something about a sub with 300 watts wasting 298 watts as heat, and only using around 2 as musical energy. Are speakers really, that inefficient?
Here's the article if some of you want a good read..
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I'm not here to bash amps or get in a pissing match, I was just saying that I am more than happy with mine so far. As for the price difference, I got mine for $300, so its right in the range of the PA3000DB amp as well.
umm, you can get a3000dbs for $169 shipped if you know the right seller
But, $300 for your Rubicon is a sick deal, for sure. 0 -
Dude, if your gonna run power acoustik, get the A3000DB. I promise you it's a stronger amp, and it's a lot more reliable than the 5500's.
LOL at people suggesting the Soundstream Rubicon to replace a PA. PA owns Soundstream, and the Rubicon is made on the same assembly line in Korea as all PA amps are. I do think the 2500 Rubicon is a more reliable and a little stronger than the A3000DB but is it a better value? Not even close. You can get 2 a3000db's for the price of one Rubicon.
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Get the DD 6.5's. There's a mustang around here that does 151's in a trunk setup off of 6 of them.
Ahhh, my bad... What about the Crescendo components. $100 shipped and not mainstream at all if you're into different stuff. Crescendo audio ccx65 review
Which? They have about 3 different 6.5 models.
The Crescendos I am talking about are the ccx65. The mustang DD install are 6 DDW6.5's on a DD M3A amp @ .667 ohm. Here's a pic, I've seen him hit a 151.3 sealed on the term lab.
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Get the DD 6.5's. There's a mustang around here that does 151's in a trunk setup off of 6 of them.
Ahhh, my bad... What about the Crescendo components. $100 shipped and not mainstream at all if you're into different stuff. Crescendo audio ccx65 review
Where can the Crescendo comps be purchased?
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Get the DD 6.5's. There's a mustang around here that does 151's in a trunk setup off of 6 of them.
Ahhh, my bad... What about the Crescendo components. $100 shipped and not mainstream at all if you're into different stuff. Crescendo audio ccx65 review
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didnt u have an ssa sub walled b4 this? or someone else? if u did what the hell happend to the ssa?
Yeah, I had an 18" xcon walled. The Xcon is in perfect shape sitting right beside me in my room. The wall that the Xcon was in was about 3 years old and the mdf on the port started splitting while playing woofercooker by bass hit.
So, I was like F it, the Xcon is a ""SQL"" woofer, so it can't be that hard to make a louder setup. The opti's have a lot more car flex and feel louder, but on my meter I'm about 2 db quieter than my xcon was. I still need to seal off my wall, and I need to brace my port, the damn thing flexes like galloping gertie. I don't know what to do with the xcon. I really wish I had a 15, not a 18. I'm also pissed at SSA for making such a great woofer. For something that is not made to get loud, it can do it pretty well.......
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My alt is rediculous.
in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
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my friend has a caliber right now as a rental car. I'm selling him some JL stuff today. So, I'll take a look at his engine. It's still a little off since it's NA.