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About mathewdylang

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday October 4

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  • Interests
    My Fiancee and daughter, car audio, and anything car related.
  • Vehicle
    98 Bravada

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  1. mathewdylang

    Front Stage, custom 3 way

    I've been going back and forth on what to do with these midrange speakers I bought. I had planned to build a 3 way component set. I have a memphis m class 6.5 with focal 1" tweeter and a focal cross over I was going to use up front. But I'm thinking of mounting the closed back mid range on the door with a mounting ring. Running the comp set in factory locations with crossover off the front channel and midrange off the rear channel with a rca split from the front. It's fq response is 300hz-8khz I beleive without going out to look. Using the amps cross over to set it at 300hz, and running the comp set off the front channel crossed at 80, and lastly the sub (vfl 8) crossed at 100. Leaving the rear doors alone for now. Would this cause any problems, or sound alright? Not worried about the door panel it's self. Just how it would sound with all three speakers up front. Pic for speaker position reference.
  2. mathewdylang

    Big 3 on Expedition

    Really? My bravada had 2 1/0 runs from 240a alt to batt. Never figured I'd need a fuse between there. I had one from front to rear batts. Just for the fact the it could rub or something and short. Guess I'll use one of my spare holders when I run the wire over.
  3. mathewdylang

    Big 3 on Expedition

    I've never ran a fuse between alt and batt. These are on there because one is starter solenoid I found. I'll just run a 4ga wire over from alt. It has 2 8-10ga runs already and I'm not seeing much voltage drop now anyways.
  4. I'm looking to do the big 3 on my 98 expedition. I was looking at the wiring from alt to batt and there are 2 runs of wire. Both are fused. Either 150 or 175 amp fuses. Am I alright to run wire straight from the amp to the battery? Or should I replace wire from alt to the fuses then fuses to batt? I'd rather leave stock wiring there and then run a 4 or 0ga run straight over. Of course I'd just do the 2 grounds chassis to block, block to batt. Any have experience with a late 90s ford?
  5. mathewdylang

    Power Wire

    Wow now I feel like an idiot. I had been looking at amps so much that I read it as rms. The 2 other hifonics I looked at were even rated at rms. Well, good thing I'm not looking for a competition set up with this. 450w to my 15 will most likely still be louder than I need for a street build. It'll save my electrical too. I ended up with the knu kca 1/0. Maybe I'll sell my 6 month old Lead Acid Battery and throw agm in and not worry to much now since my alt is 140a stock. What got me to beleive it was rms rated was the 120a worth of fuses on it. At 14.4 with 80% efficiency was 1500ish watts at 120a. Live and learn I guess.
  6. mathewdylang

    Power Wire

    I ended up getting a knukoncepts kollosus kit in 0ga. I will end up just ordering the step down terminals. Thanks for the input everyone!
  7. I ordered a hifonics zeus 1800w amp. The spec sheet online says it uses 4ga inputs. I feel like 4ga is rather small for an 1800w amp. I know I can get wire reducers, but could I just run 2 fuse holders, and on the rear at the amp go down from 0ga to 4ga? Or should I just run 1 fuse, and solid 1/0 run to a reducer?
  8. mathewdylang

    Getting back into audio

    So I haven't had a sub in almost 4 years, I've been running a factory stereo in my expedition (mach) for over a year and the factory 8 finally gave out. So now it's time to put a little something together. I have the expedition with 3rd row seating removed, so I have space for whatever I decide to do. I've been going back and forth between a sundown e12 for $80 or a SQ HDS200 15 for what SSA sells them, $115. I don't plan to compete, just get a little bass again. It won't be played a whole lot as I have a 1 year old who rides in my truck. That being said, when I am alone it will be played rather hard. I'm afraid the 12 won't be enough for a large SUV since I was use to an AA Havoc 15 in a blazer when I was competeing. I plan on running comps in the front with coax in the rear off the factory amp with an 8" mid driver in factory sub location. The a single sub on a 500.1 (still undecided until sub is chosen). Also looking into used around that same price point for sub, but I don't think I will find much better in the 80-150 dollar range. Not wanting to spend a whole lot on this build since I won't be competing with it, even though it will probably end up like a recovering alcoholic saying one drink won't hurt... What do you all recommend? E12 or hds215? Something else in price range? Either way I will be building box to suit, some what closely matching amp output to sub, and not competing.
  9. mathewdylang

    Got a Fi BL 12 for FREE!

    Psi from what I've heard at comps, half the guys here are running psi recones woofers.
  10. mathewdylang

    Got a Fi BL 12 for FREE!

    FI should have recone price on their site. I wouldn't use wire to lengthen it, but maybe that's just me. As for how much can you sell it for? Depends on who buys it and how bad they want it. I'd personally recone it. Fi takes a couple weeks to recone. Psi is fairly quick and a little cheaper.
  11. mathewdylang

    To change subs or not

    A buddy of mine still has the first system he bought a couple years ago consisting of 2 Kicker CVX 15s in a sealed box (the shop said they couldnt make a ported box with space they had, but I ran it on Torres an the box would have only had to be 2in taller to run a port which would put him at the top of his back seat.) He said he likes his 15s but he wants to be "louder" and hit the lows better. I told him I could build a ported box for his car, or we could upgrade subs for the new box. I have him looking at the XCON 18. He has a HIFONICS Brutus 2200. I figured at 1 ohm he would see 1700-1800 watts. Would 1 XCON 18 in 6 cube box at 34hz be as "loud" or "louder" than the 2 CVX? I figured with more motor strength and more XMAX to work with in a ported box it would do as good if not better than the Kickers. I know questions like this get asked all the time but I don't want to tell him wrong and him be unhappy. Any input guys? BTW: 1995 Saturn SW2 (wagon) box would be 6ft^3 @34hz (after sub displacement and bracing) Brutus 2200d his alternator was rebuilt to 150a and he wants to add a small battery in the back all on 0ga with big 3 done
  12. mathewdylang

    No email response

    Just wondering if anything got figured out. I sent you a pm with transaction number.
  13. mathewdylang

    Help with tunning ports for BLs

    makes it easier to seal buy gluing around the lip to the box. I also used expanding foam but I prefer over kill.
  14. mathewdylang

    Help with tunning ports for BLs

    Yeah precision all come 17 with flares included. I just used my first one in a box.
  15. mathewdylang

    Help with tunning ports for BLs

    The site says you just need a gap. But rule of thumb is diameter distance so 4 in. You can get away with less but I wouldn't go much less IMO.