Hitman

As previously stated, cant wait

True. Unfortunately its the only car I have atm so I dont have much of a choice but to make due with it. Needless to say the next daily driver car I get is going to have the sound sytem taken heavily into acount. As far as the distance from the door hindge goes, I was going to be as close as possible to the lower edges of the door. As said its a cool idea, and perhaps in the future ill reconsider, but definetly not on this car. So far ive pretty much rounded it down to Rainbow powerline CS series, running off either a Arc 2300 SE or 4200 SE. Depends which will work better for the setup (most likley the 4200) A set of usher 9845s For the sub a Arc 2300 SE and a set of Usher 9845 3" domes stuffing in the the kick area somehow, along with just the woofer from my bostons in the back doors for some mild rear fill powered by my old school JL 300.4 which will be hidden under one of the seats Ill give it more thought tomorrow, I pretty much threw that setup ^ on paper last night at 3am so not much thought went into it.

Yeah I know the feeling. 1 b15 ported swelled my car up like you wouldnt belive. Some places were moving a good 2-3" I even managed to crack an area near the deck lid, close to the way back of the trunk opening. Ive taken quite of few pics of the entire sound deadner process...and the crack, lol Ill eventually get the pics up. The past few weeks ive slowly applied an extra 80 more sq ft of SS damp pro (had 50 ft in already), and still have about 4gallons of sludge left. The roof, floors, you name it im covering it.

Oh im sure it would have sounded great upfront but the weight issue is too great. Its an 2001 maxima. Not to mention once the front doors get modified there is no going back. I wouldnt mind now, but perhaps one day should I choose to sell, then I might. Going over several options atm as well, likley im going to either figure out a setup using Seas 8s which is only a few lbs plus I doubt ill have to fiberglass anything to get those in there. Either that or one of the higher ranked rainbow comp sets ( atleast the powerline CS series ) that can dip well below 60hz. That gap between 60 to 100 was very anoying. The bostons I had in there before didnt play midbass too well. Im putting together 2-3 setups on paper for now, depending on how anoying it would be I might just go with 3-way. Maybe even go the active route, or just get anoyed as hell & keep it simple and slap in a nice 2way. Ill find out early next week.

This is true. This is also why I posted this here with a ? in the titile. Wasnt sure how good an idea it was, figured id gather opinions & take it from there. Speaking of the weight, it was 1 thing I didnt really take into acount. What can I say, lol when your right your right. Guess its back to a 2way front stage. Should save quite a bit of hassle and cost so im not going to complain Thanks all for your input.

About 4" from what I can tell before the glass gets touched. I know the 8s are about 6" deep but thats the reason im going to get it fiberglassed, and somewhat at an angle slightly tilted towards the dome light area. While im in the car it looks like there is a good 3.5-4.0" from were I rest my leg while driving so Im hoping raising it 2-3" wont anoy the hell out of me. IF that can be done without the door hitting my legs, I just might try it out. I guess keeping it around 100hz should be fine, perhaps no more then say 120. After my last setup, the area between 60hz and 150ish was lacking quite a bit. However 60 and below was quite nice, lol.

Im "considering" getting my front doors redone via fiberglass and setting up a strong front stage. Comps up top, with some RLi 8s in a sealed atleast 0.4cu ft enclosure per door. Depending on the amp still havnt decided if im going to go with SVC of DVC as of yet. Going to give them atleast 150rms per to work with, maybe even upward 300+ should my elec system support it. Upto what freq range would the 8s be able to go upto? I was thinking upto atleast 200hz, still open to debat on what to cross them at. As for the comps, im leaning heavliy towards a set of rainbows...undecided which ones atm. From the looks of things is going to be atleas a 600+ rms front stage should things go as planned. Main concern is the RLi 8s and what to cross them to since most dont use them in this type of application. Not even sure if it will work well upfront.

Those are the only 2 companies that I have not heard one bad comment on. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ok, but what do you personally think of either brand? also what about excessive amperage? Been considering an upgrade, just not sure which way to shoot. I dont want to spend say $350 then find out its not doing what its supposed to do, then spend another $450 or so to get one that does what its supposed to. Id rather just spend the $450 or whatever it may be then doing in twice.

Sweet setup, looks great.

Thanks.

Hello every1, new to the forum, not to the audio game though It all depends on what type of response your looking for, as well as how much trunk space you're personally willing to use. Dont think for a second that the power you put into a sub is the main factor of how loud it will get. 95% is in how the box is built. A sealed setup will sound more flat, its mostly used for SQ purposes, and would work better if you dont want to use as much trunk space. A ported setup is a bit different, one major thing about ported boxes is the efficiency. You could put 300rms to each sub in a ported box (one thats well built anyway) and have it get as loud as a sealed setup using 2x the power. Just an example. The biggest difference is that ported setups take much more room, and are a bit more complicated to setup correctly compared to a sealed setup. More math involved, ect... As far as port tuning goes, well every1 has their own personal preferences, the lower you tune a box the more space the port will take up but it will have a very strong low end. Lets say 27hz, the higher you tune it the more SPL oriented the setup will be but you'll lose some low end, say 38hz and up. Personally I like setting a tuning freq around 30-35hz, still gets damn loud and sounds well doing it. There are a few online programs you can DL (WinISD<free, bassboxpro<cost you a bit) that would help you setup an enclosure. Just make sure you get a well built box regardless of which route you choose to take. Get some1 to build it for you if you dont feel like messing with it, regardless dont get a prefab. The box makes a big diff. This forum, as well as places such as carstereos.org both have A LOT of useful info & ppl that know what they are talking about.