burko

^^ I understand. Let's add another question to the pot. Why are there two RCA inputs on these 4 channels..? Aren't they only receiving one input signal from the HU, or am I missing something?

Why would you need to if the seleniums are capable of going up to 9kHz? Because in reality the likely can't play up that high, and even if they could it wouldn't be a good idea. I got ya Thanks fellas. Oh and I take back my last post, I figured out the controls are for each pair of channels.

Why would you need to if the seleniums are capable of going up to 9kHz? LOL. Specs are crap. No way, no how do those specs portray reality. Yeah, the difference between 3k and 9k is pretty significant, there's no way a company would claim to cover that many frequencies if they didn't. (Or maybe there is... Would be pretty ridiculous if there truly was a 6kHz gap in frequencies). *Change of subject* Say I was to get a Crescendo 1000C4. They say there is a HPF/FULL/LPF Selection for each stereo channel pair. Does this mean for each 2 channels, or for each pair of positive and negative terminals?

Thank you sir!! Exactly what I wanted to know!

Why would you need to if the seleniums are capable of going up to 9kHz?

Whooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!! Fixin shit feels good, don't it?

How's it coming along, Jacob? Might have to pick up a couple. Any ETA?

Ohhhhh, so one channel signal goes into the xover, and it splits it into the mid/high? Got it.. I was wondering the same thing... ?? First I would purchase an amp and put those XTR speakers on the amp first before going out and buying new speakers. If your current speakers amplified still dont meet your goals or desired output levels then switch to something else. If you do end up switching speakers to what you have listed above I would only buy 2 supertweeters if your going with 4 Selenium drivers (hopefully the Sundown Neo-Pro 6.5"s will be out by then). If you choose to get the Sundown 100.4D you can wire your speakers like so: Channel 1 - 1 Supertweeter @ 8 ohm load Channel 2 - 1 Supertweeter @ 8 ohm load Channel 3 - 2 Seleniums @ 4 ohm load (two 8 ohm speakers wired together = 4 ohm load) Channel 4 - 2 Seleniums @ 4 ohm load (two 8 ohm speakers wired together = 4 ohm load) Yes they will see around 50 watts a piece give or take some wattage, this will be fine considering they are more efficient than your typical car audio speakers (coaxials, components). There are a lot of people on this site who dont like pro audio drivers or dont care for them in there install so they will talk down on them. There are a few of us on here who use them and use them in actual installs, I can honestly say it is not for everyone. I would try to listen to someone who has a pro audio setup before taking the leap, but if you do the speakers your looking at wont brake your pockets if you end up not liking them. Just my .02, hope that helps. Would that be considered an active setup, as in no crossovers?

Thanks man!

I've seen this combo before... Hmmmmm. Ahh yes, here it is OK?

Nevermind, I think...

So in simple terms, running passive involves no amplifier? Appreciate the info everybody. Like I said, I'm currently running Orion XTRs. Unfortunately, they just don't get loud enough. The bass drowns out the music even at mild to moderate levels. The reason for my wanting a powerful setup is because I want to have bass while still maintaining the sound of the music. Could someone maybe answer that question right there ^^ to help better my understanding? If I'm wrong don't bash me... please.

Probably the same test Don did with his CLD tiles.

By component set, you mean mids and tweets with a crossover? You guys have to understand, I still don't really even know what running active means...

Could you elaborate as to why, exactly? Also, who is that girl in your sig? I always see it but I've never thought to ask..

Do you mean that the sheet metal is flexing and you don't care or the sheet metal isn't flexing? What sort of sound pressure are you generating? The sheet metal is flexing, but I'm more concerned about the noise coming from it than the flexing itself.

Hi, I was wondering if I could get a bit of advice from you. I drive a 98 K1500 pickup, and I run 1 18" Fi BTL. Obviously, I'm getting some really bad rattling from, well, all over. I've read around and I've come to the conclusion that you are, by far, the best at what you do, so I've come to ask for your advice. Have you ever worked on these extended cabs before? I'm looking to go the whole 9 yards with this sound deadening setup. I'm hoping to eliminate all rattling from the door, rear wall, and ceiling. That being said, flex isn't much of an issue; I'd rather have minimal rattling than minimal flex. If you need any more information, please tell me. I hate to be the guy that asks, "Hey, what should I put in my car?", but I'm a complete noob when it comes to this stuff, and I'd really like to get an opinion straight from the source rather than guessing on the materials I need through research. If you could possibly help me out and give me a general idea of what price I would be looking at for achieving my goals, I would really appreciate it. **Also sent as PM. Not sure if he checks his or not.

SSA lists 4cf. but I'd think you could be ok with as little as 3cf. I didn't know you had these installed already. do you have a pic? How does 22" deep sound? 16x33x22. I haven't quite got the details down yet, but it should end up close to 4cf. Ok, I've got a final design. 15x33x22. net vol = 3.5 cf. 3.5x14.5 slot port. Port and subs facing back. you should get about 6db more out of this box at 40hz. (than your sealed box) That is like adding 2 more subs! Duane The port is only 14.5 inches long? Could be wrong, but I believe 14.5 is the height. Not if the height is 15", that would make the port height 13.5". I think I see what he did, the 14.5 is the second port length after the turn. If that is the case the box is tuned pretty low, I'd go for a bit higher tuning, more port area, and a double baffle. You're right, I was looking at the post before that one when he said 16". Perhaps he accidentally hit 5 instead of 6?

SSA lists 4cf. but I'd think you could be ok with as little as 3cf. I didn't know you had these installed already. do you have a pic? How does 22" deep sound? 16x33x22. I haven't quite got the details down yet, but it should end up close to 4cf. Ok, I've got a final design. 15x33x22. net vol = 3.5 cf. 3.5x14.5 slot port. Port and subs facing back. you should get about 6db more out of this box at 40hz. (than your sealed box) That is like adding 2 more subs! Duane The port is only 14.5 inches long? Could be wrong, but I believe 14.5 is the height.

That little of a difference isn't going to matter much. WOW, the box i have now is 2.58, going to 2.70 isnt gunna make a difference :/ so now its like ported or nothing... Why would you want to go from 2.58 to 2.7? im not gunna, that was really stupid of me, i was calculating my box TOTALLY wrong and it seemed like there was a difference but i see now there is none. i really want a ported box, but how do i calculate the cu.ft of a ported box? If you run Windows, or have a way of running Windows programs on your Mac, I would highly suggest getting the Torres' Box Tuning Calculator. You put in your dimensions and it does all of the calculations for you. If you don't know what to put in a specific field, go to the help menu and any questions should be answered. Good luck!

That little of a difference isn't going to matter much. WOW, the box i have now is 2.58, going to 2.70 isnt gunna make a difference :/ so now its like ported or nothing... Why would you want to go from 2.58 to 2.7?

Any news? I REALLY need a new one and just figured I'd ask.

Bumpity bump