ArrizX

OK so here is the hopefully last thread on my truck. I am buying a prefab box. I know no one recommends a pre fab box but there is only one way to fit it under the rear seat in my 2014 F 150 super cab. Unless I decide to take more floor space for more air space its kind of a set design. Id rather not eat more floor space because the back does get used a little bit. Anyways http://www.soundoffaudio.com/2009-2014-ford-f-150-extended-cab/ http://www.supercrewsound.com/09F150ECUTSdual.html Are the two I am looking at. No matter what air space is .80 cube before sub. I was wondering if for the space, I could get a little better smaller subwoofers. Instead of getting low end larger subs that dont take as much if I went with smaller 8" subs. Though they cost more, there are much better quality subs that would work for me. Example I was planning on RE REX 10s, then I decided REX 12s but looking at it vs say a Sundown SA 8, the SA 8 is a much nicer sub that takes more power and will move more air (although have less cone area). I guess all I am asking is if I should get as big as sub as I can fit/afford/use for enclosure or if I should get the highest quality sub I can even if it means going smaller? Would anyone care to comment on size vs quality? I am not sure how to approach a box this small and this little volume? Last truck I had I took half the back seat and had an SA 15 in it in an extended cab pick up and it was awesome. Not looking for the same out put this time though. Just low end that sounds good.

I have a 2014 Ford F150 with sync and the 4.2 screen of which there are no options for aftermarket stuff anyways. I cant find a unit that will plug into the factory harness. I could do this and buy a headunit but I dont want too http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-5830B-2013-Up-Factory-4-2-Inch/dp/B00FDW51C2 I was going to buy this untill I saw that is was only good untill 2012. And upon further reading there is nothing for the 2013 and 2014s http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=548&Cate.. So now I am not sure what to do to get my pre amps. I found this but this is for a new stereo, not pre amps.... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120AXAFD02/Axxess-AX-ADFD02-Interface-Harness.html I must be retarded or something. I could get one of those units that install on two speakers and will take the low signal from them but I also need signal for a front stage amp. Not sure what to do now?

I thought line out converters were for low level. Can you reccomend one for high and then one for low? Thanks....

No reason not too. I had 10s in my last car with a crappy stereo. Hate doing the same thing again even though they are different 10s. I just havent had 10s for a while. I may have to though.

Hmmmm something to consider too, thanks.

I did overlook the SD because I was trying to stay away from specifically designed shallow subs. But this sub looks bad ass. A 12 appears to require 1 whole cubic foot. Would it be okay on .7 cubic feet because thats the net after the driver takes .1 cube.

Oh, well I guess that takes care of that then. No I have not bought an amp yet.

So I have most of the system planned. Truck is a super cab 2014 F150. Subs will be two RE REX 10s Dual 4s. Each sub will get .72 cubic feet sealed. Box is going under the rear seat. Sub amp will be SAE-1000D Comp set amp will be Rockford Fosgate P300x2. I am not sure what comps to go with. Going to be a 6.5" set. Budget up to around 200 ish dollars for them. Top mount depth cant be more than 2 3/8th inch. Have been looking at Kappa 60.11cs, Alpine Type R, JL c2-600 is close enough with a spacer. I might need to spend a little less to get a smaller driver, because I cant space the speaker out from the door too much with out hitting the door panel, and I am not going to cut the door panel. I had Image Dynamic CTX65cs in my last truck and they were beyond awesome but they are pretty deep at 2 3/4". I would like something very comparable to these for about the same price. Cant spend much more than 200 because I need to buy the rest of the crap too, thanks.

Thanks for the dampening info. Ill do that. I think I can handle it from here. Im going to make another thread on subs I am having second thoughts and hopefully ill get that figured out and be buying all this crap soon!

Interesting. While that would be fun to learn and try I dont think thats going to be what I want right now. I appreciate the clarification though.

So, is buying a midrange speaker, a tweeter and a separate cross over some how different than a component set? Or does it just give you more control over brand stuff? Isnt a comp set just a mid range woofer and a tweeter and a cross over? Although just from one brand?

Oh okay, well kick ass.

Interesting. Have not quite looked at it like that. What does your set up consist of then?

Interesting. Ive never been advised to deaden my door. I guess I dont know too many - or any- audio professionals and usually do my own installs. Could I get a reccomendation for deadener and a comp set? At least pointed in the right direction for speakers? I still feel like I am poking in the dark I have pretty limited experiece with component sets

cobra, I have no idea it was just from reading about a guy in the same truck bought an infinity set that were sized to 2 3/8 and he needed a 1/4" spacer to clear. I beleive it was glass but I am not sure. lithium, I have never deaded a door, or felt the need too. I didnt realize it was so important? Thats something that can be done down the road, right?

Local shops only carry common stuff like Alpine, Rockford, Infinity etc. "Big brands" so no not really. Like I said Ideally I want something like the image dynamics cause they are amazing in my opinion but they are too deep and I dont think I can space them out far enough with out needing to cut a hole in the door panel. So I want something very very similar just 1/2 to 3/4 inch shallower. Typical ford mounting location in the lower forward corner of each door panel. Tweeter is in the A pillar. Amp is open to opinions because I havent bought it yet but I was thinking the Rockford Fosgate P300x2. Did not plan to do anything extra too the doors. Door panels screw on instead of using plastic snap clips so there should be no rattling. Edit- door is actually made for a 6x8 speaker I was just going to adapt it to a 6.5 round. But that will open up more options if anyone wanted to suggest something in that size.

Yeah.....

So I was getting ready and doing some research about my new truck before I bought speakers and I found an interesting fact........ I have a new 2014 F150 and it has rear speakers, door speakers and tweeters. Door speakers get the full channel, tweeters also get the full channel with a capacitor or resistor to cancel the low frequencies. There is no factory cross - over. I am not going to amp this set of speakers because I am concerened about my hearing listening to loud music all the time. Anyways so all I was going to do was replace the door speaker with a coax speaker and replace the tweeter with just a better one. Will I get too much high range with a coax speaker and tweeter designed the factory way? Thanks

I only planned on 150 for front speakers and then sub woofer stuff, but I will need to buget out more for better speakers and an amp and more wiring and stuff. If I had to put a number on it, I would say 500 on equipment for front stage and ill install it all myself. Sub stage is going to be an SAE-600d or 1000d (cant decide if I want extra in case or not) and two RE10s in an under seat box for a super cab truck. But thats subject to change with an amplified front stage. I planned on 500 for sub stage too so I can buget realistically 1000 dollars for a decent system. Im keeping the stock head unit in the truck. Speakers, amps, subs, etc.

I could get a coax speaker and unplug the a pillar speaker but that is stupid. So do I understand that A pillar tweeter wont work with a coax and all I can really do is get a real component set with an amp and set the x over myself and bypass whatever factory shit may be there?

Yeah I wasnt going to do anything with the backs. I wasnt going to amp the fronts either but if I need to get a component set then I will have too. Do I have any other options though?

Thats what I thought. But everyone is doing what I just asked about. Stage3 even sells a kicker kit that is only coax speakers that is for our truck. http://www.stage3motorsports.com/KS68-2004-2014-F150-Kicker-KS68-6x8-Door-Speaker-Upgrade-Kit-CrewCab-SuperCab.html So I guess I should get a REAL comp kit? If I do that then I have to get an amp. It would be stupid not too with a nice component set...... Watcha think?

I know that the Hifonics BXi 1610D is kind of like the ultimate budget amp, but I like the looks of the CRUNCH GPV2000.1 at almost a hundred dollars less. Think I will get rated wattage out of the crunch, or save a bit more and get the hifonics.

Definitely under 200 for now. On a side note, another friend gave me a kenwood amp. Everything seems to turn on and power up fine, but I get absolutely nothing at the speaker terminals. If I can fix it its mine. I put a multi meter up on it, and I get zero voltage and the speaker out puts. Any ideas for that? I appreciate the help so far, ive been out of the game for a year or two now.

Well, right now I have two MTX jack hammers a friend is letting my borrow for the winter, and next summer I will do a customed ported behind the seat 12'', but it will have to be a shallow mount.. I'm in a jeep wrangler, so I dont have much to work with lol.