theabunai

I had JL W6 12's so i can't speak on behalf of their 15's the JL w6 is an excellent sub in my opinion. Out of the subs i owned (prior to SSD's) i liked there SQ... the kickers had better SPL but the JL just played "nicer" I would love to say i did a direct swap but i just love building boxes (practice makes perfect) so we built one to spec for the SSD.... BUT the JL box we built came recommended by 2 different techs at JL (sealed box)... So i guess in that retrospect it was sort of "fair".. this is the thing.... the JL played hella loud on higher bass notes... for example, DJ laz mami el negro utterly slammed on the JL... LOUD and just nice... when i installed the SSD i quickly popped in my DJ laz and to my suprise it was softer BUT more accurate than the JL MUCH more SQ IMHO.. (spent couple hours meesing with crossover setting from EQ to Amp to Headunit) and i couldn't get it louder.... So i moved on to a different song Kid sensation - Back to boom... Same result. seemed like the JLs were louder.... But the SQ was just amazing for the SSD.... Bare in mind We popped the old JL BOX into the system played it... took it out, put the SSD box in played it...... then out of the blue my cousin martin says "hey lets play some songs that didn't sound good on the JL" Out comes T-pain - I'm sprung ..... Damn Bbirds if you could've seen the look on EVERYONES face when it hit the lows..... i swear I literally almost had a smile past my two ears... It was SO much louder and lower then the JL's..... I mean not just loud and low but even MORE accurate than when it played the other higher freq songs.... Trust me, you will hear and literally FEEL how much more crazy this sub can get.. The ported we tested was only at 500 watts.. to me the sealed sounded more acurate and louder to the ear.... though i have to admit the ported moved much more Air..... We are making a new ported with a bit more sq ft of port and will be popping it in hooked up to the new amps and electrical upgrades i made (1k watts per sub and a trunk battery keeping voltage above 13V).. i suspect the ported will literally shake my car to pieces.... But i like to test sound by MY EAR and not some SPL meter so i am a bit different... Oh side note... I was looking for a sub that can play lower than my JL's as the high punchy bass really isn't my style (yeah the kickers i could've thrown back in but the SQ sounded so nice, I thought there would be no MIDDLE ground being nice low bss with good SQ)... Order up, 2 SSD.... MMMM now i'm getting my fill of low shaking "accurate" bass... Oh BTW thanks to scott, my wife thinks WE need to go jogging more since she can feel her bum bum shake when the bass hits... tried to tell her it wasn't fat but an FI (pronounced FIGH for the n00bs) One last point of note... I do not recommend this but recently i did finally full tilt my volume for about 20-25 minutes with the 1K watts... felt the cones..... Warm but no where near hot.... God i want to break these to get some BL's but chit it's not that easy to break these subs...

I thought so good idea.... I myself firmly believe in bracing....

bagged is that middle piece bracing (the one that looks like a shark fin, sorry i don't know how else to describe it) ?

Scott just double checking but we start TWO topics 1. which includes A. 2. then another topic that includes B. OR do we start topic A then in the SAME thread start another topic about the review ? (so 1 thread with two topics in the same thread) I wrote a review should i re-edit it or post a new brand new one ? thanks

I may have missed it but where is the eBay guy ? any link

what an excellent question I was saying it wrong LOL I was saying "I got a pair of Eff Eye Subs" this should be a sticky

You dont need to fit TWO 8 ga in the terminal springs... You can buy this http://www.realmofexcursion.com/store/prod.../products_id/52 Or make your own with nut/bolt and a metal plate.... IF you wish to use 8 guage. If not 12 GA works as well...

kickin please update us when it's up on the site BTW who's system in Elite Car Sounds & Security - January 7th with the Fi subs

DENIM YOU ROCK MAN

Guys I saw a posts on another forum (i have been searching for the link somewhere) that they talked to an Fi audio rep and was told that the copper coil option increases RMS handling.... T or F Thanks

Hmm i don't know if the basket gets hot but i seriously don't think so... Most car audio wire is thermal resistant and if the basket is hot enough to melt the wire then something is wrong with the sub IMHO (an assumption of course).. I wouldn't worry too much about wires flopping around if you are worried about it just be sure the wire is short enough when you wire the coils to NOT touch the ground... It should be fine... Ployfill tricks the sub into thinking it is in a bigger enclosure than it is example say your sub enclosure is .93cuft and the manufacturer recommends 1.0cuft, then instead of building a new box you can add polyfill to it to trick the sub into thinking it is in a 1.0 box... I do believe (someone correct me if i'm wrong here) the polyfill increases the Damping AND in turn increases subwoofer efficiency by dissipating some energy that affects the sub (mainly the voice coil). sorry but i really don't know how to measure polyfill to make an exact conclusion as to how much to get x result... but here is some good reading http://www.caraudiomag.com/specialfeatures...ae_speaker_box/ also when the site gets back up try here http://www.the12volt.com/

You don't NEED to run through the common wall in the enclosure... In fact i recommend you don't in case you decide to upgrade to individual amps for each sub.. what you can do is wire the coils on the sub as it is shown Then wire it to the terminal cup on the enclosure.. THEN you can run the amp +/- to the left side terminal cup then from that terminal cup over to the right side terminal cup... OR you can just run two sets of wires from your amp one set goes to the left side and the other to the right side.. the wires shouldn't be audible if it is slapping in the enclosure especially since this is a sealed enclosure, i wouldn't worry much about it but you can zip it to the little "nub" on the basket if you want.

I remember seeing it on ca.com that i saw the topic.... someone asked what the options were on both the flatwind and copper coil and someone answered "well I called Fi direct and was told that the flatwind AND copper coil increases the RMS of the sub just that the copper coil gets you more lower end" Came back over here to read the features and i didn't see it in the copper coil option.... So i figured i'd get the official word from someone who KNOWS.... thanks BTW I got 1,000 going to each of mine and finally had the balls to full tilt the volume for about 15-20 mins..... Cones weren't even that warm.... took it like a champ....

Thanks I wanted an official answer from someone who is trustworthy... End of subject

Warning !! I'm about to hijack this thread real quick Shawn you wouldn't happen to be able to get Kinetik batteries CHEAP would you ? End Hijack Well i got a few guys here in hawaii that are about to buy some Fi subs and we gonna go on a rampage in Waikiki...... As soon as my stickers come in woot woot

<~ Got any ??

Oooooo undies

Depends on PWOER and the enclosure (sealed or ported) Don't get me wrong they both can WANG on either or BUT there is a distinct advantage on the two for each enviromental setting... PERSONALY, I like my box sealed (since i have a tC space is scarce) So i opted for the copper coil as it seems to do a bit better in a sealed enviroment than a ported one Though the flatwind does allow for more power handling thus it could wang a bit louder in a vented/ported enclosure... Though they both sound good in either enclosure... I doubt much difference could be heard by ear... For daily (which is what i use mine for) i opted for the copper coils as I love me my lowwww booooom.. since the copper coil helps the low end and a sealed enclosure tends to tune it's resonance higher the copper coils provides a nice balance to the sealed enclosure bringing the response of the sealed enclosure a little lower... you can read my review (link in the sig).. Also FYI Copper coil heightens the low end response of the sub Flatwind gives it more thermal handling increasing the RMS from 800 to around 1K Nick explains it more in depth here http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7156 As for a good amp Look into a Sundown SAZ-1500D grab a pair of Dual 1ohm SSD and wire thesub coils in parallel the wire the 2 subs in series for the ohm load (that should give each sub a good true 750rms each tested the sundown did @ 1 ohm nominal = 1510 watts @ 78% efficiency).... else look for an amp that can give each sub about 700 - 900 watts (up to 1K if you get the flatwind)

Also bare in mind the two options (read up on them here on the forums) can not be bought together.... meaning it's either the copper coil OR the Flatwind coil.. Also the price includes free shipping in the continental US....

I vote BL

CONGRATS LILJON AND FRANKIE GO TEAM Fi Yeah the TL meter is RUTHLESS.... .2DB man hey atleast it wasn't by a landslide eh liljohn Maybe add another battery later LOL

I personally think the rockford is an excellent choice if you want to shell out the few bucks above your budget.... It's a bit cleaner and puts out the power it is rated at (since they do participate in the CES rating) If you want other options that may fit your budget i would also look at the Autotek MM 4000.1D... 4k @ 2ohms, its a class D and it runs just under a grand depending on condition (new, used or refurbished).. If you are willing to try the SStreams then you can also give the Hifonics XX-Goliath a try... though it isn't as powerful as the SS it can be found for around $1K and keep an eye out on this company http://www.rdaudio.net/amps/rd5000.php lots of people say they are gonna be doing some good Equipment.... We shall see just throwing out options for you

Happy Bday FLakko

What you gonna power it with wanger

Id go with the rockford tej then the Memphis