theabunai

Email nick(at)ficaraudio.com Send him your name, what you ordered and mailing address... He will promptly get back to you... Nick handles most of the orders after they have been placed... hell he handles most of the email communications for Fi and AA now... You WILL get a response from him for sure... If not post back here and i will give scott or nick a call for you...

Jake no worries... we all know it's bushe's fault for the economy... But i do have to interject and request a SAZ-5KD

Put it in a bank in swedan that earns 20% interest

I can get you pics of the bum bum and cone if you want to see them

Nope on the parking brake wire... you DO NOT hook it up to the vehicle parking brake wire... the remote wire will depend if you have a factory amp... then YES you will have to branch it off to the factory car harness.. And NO the socket is just a piece that goes on the relay so you don't have to butt female speaker crimps... the relay plugs into the socket and then you use the sockets wires to make your connections... this is what a relay looks like now you can see how that socket fits onto the relay...

the website says that... but that is based of of a CONSERVATIVELY configured RMS of 1K.... If you know scott by now, you would know that the 1K RMS rating on a stock Q is below what they actually handle rated... (scott mentions this in several post here) Without the BP option the Q can handle up to 1300 watts... after that, as nick stated to me "over 1300 watts the Q starts to get pissed off" 1300 watts stock plus 500 watts BP option = 1800.....

The BTL backlog has nothing to do with the BLs being taken of the site... Scott has told me on a conference call that he is awaiting magnets for the BL line of subs... BTL's have a 3 week wait AFTER ordering due to a backlog due to a material problem that scott would not let get by... he is all about quality control... BL's should be available to order sometime near the end of this week or beginning of next week

you would need to get the BP option on the Q's That should bring you right up around 1800 rms... Gain set your amps with an oscope and be responsible on the volume knob and it shouldn't be an issue...

It should be up and ready to order in about 2 weeks

USC LAYETH THE SAMCKITH DOWN on ohio st...

I find it hard to get good SQ and SPL... BL is more for daily driving rather then SPL BTL is SPL oriented... Q is more accurate in the bass area... I'd get the SSD's with copper coils and BP option.

2 weeks or so

Whoa that usually means they are waiting for parts on the BL to arrive so they halt orders... I'll give scott a call tomorrow and find out if this is in fact the case...

make sure you accept the non-secure images alert.. it's perfectly fine... try refresh i'm on it now...

It would be fine.... but once again, that is an awful lot of money your spending and only using 1/4 of what the BTL is intended to do.. It's like buying a 4 channel amp and using only one channel... why buy the 4 channel when a single mono amp will do.... The BL will soak that 1500 watt amp and ask for more... BTL is geared more toward extreme SPL and numbers though it can get down and dirty in the daily scene.. Extreme SPL is NOT loud low bass... it's usually high tuning subs moving AIR not so much low end sound.... The BL is geared toward low end daily beating (which to me is what you seem to be after).... Judging by your post i would bet that if i played a 15" BL and a 15" BTL you would NOT be able to tell which is which... It's not a marketing gimmick in fact the BTL is much more expensive then a BL... It's more about practicality and getting your moneys worth... But in your scenario that amp would push the BTL.... I would still look into upgrading the electrical... an extra battery in the trunk at least... Also take head.. I'm sure you've seen and read thousands of BTL owners talking about it being supah loud.... adjust your gains accordingly, it's the allusion of people thinking that since the BTL can handle 2K+ and they have a 1500 watt amp on it that it is un-breakable so they crank the gains and crank the knob.... that's a 500 dollar mistake...

when someone comes on the forums asking "what i need to get full potential out of a sub" usually isn' prepared for a sub like a BTL... meaning the BTL is a heavy hitter, sure the average joe can run the sub, but if you don't know what you need then that means you're looking someplace that you probably don't need to look... Those who want a bTL usualy have their system laid out, 4K watts 4 batteries HO alt, having the itch of the TL and looking for a sub to fit in would be the normal guys looking at BTL's... those who are undecuded usually fit the Q or BL... A Q or a BL will 9 out of 10 times fit whatever it is your looking for... BL can soak up to 2K with a proper install and build.... Q can soak up to 1500 same as above.... BL is daily driving low loud ass bass Q is low end accurate bass. I'd do the fully loaded BL with 2K ish on tap with 2 batteries in the trunk or one with a 150amp + Alt...

It's not something that can be easily cleared up and it wasn't in scotts hands why their are delays... Just know that scott will not settle for the slightest imperfections with his materials when he builds his subs... so a 3 week wait is well worth it in this case

even if they don't know how just tell them what you want installed... Also i would recommend keeping the yellow up front and getting a kinetik or powermaster for the trunk....

wrong section too

actually I had a military guy come in with a single 12... bought a rockford 500-1bd Sub did fairly well... Lasted about 2 minutes before freezing up.... Seriously... not even joking... guy got into a huge fight saying we did something wrong... hooked up a alumapro 10" to the amp.... he ended up buying the alumapro 10 bandpass box.... that's my experience with them.. For the record.... Saying that your considering this brand because you live in canada and shipping is bad, is a very sad excuse.... Sometimes it;s cheaper to spend more on a good quality item (in the long run it last longer) then saving money on a poor brand (where you will be out that money and probably ending up paying for the good brand in the end)

I would double check the subs again.... what do they meter (resistance wise while NOT hooked up to the amp)... I have been installing for over 14 years... and trust me just cause speakers are new doesn't mean they aren't bad... Also metering the speakers are a sure fire way that you didn't hook them up wrong (coil wise).. there are two main reasons amps go into protect 1. Low voltage input in turn means to high a current, amp gets hot and shuts down.. 2. unstable impedance from the speakers..

Yeah i've heard them.... They do cause discomfort in the inner ear... loud enough for me not to want to stay in the car

from testing the box design then building it (and mind you i'm no master woodworker) but the boxes tend to be tuned higher then what the RE calculator says... just the port tuning was off a little.... could be builder error... The one we use and is fairly accurate is this one (well accurate in regards to tuning) http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

hes also switching to crossfire subs We all know who's the OEM for Crossfire subs right he he

They are called "pain Generators"