theabunai

Also what did you use on the kerf cuts for bonding ? I am sure the fiberglass will strengthen it more but curious on the initial stage i saw "goo" on it...

Brian I would do two 260 alt for that type of power, don't forget the bullet proof vest and the hard hat.... nose bleed anyone LOL Man Denim, when you gonna finish bricking your house bud then you can order some AX series woohooo

I have 2 ssd 12's Say i want to upgrade to a 15 can i just send my sub in for a new basket and recone ? Will it be cheaper then buying a new 15 SSD ?

Nick Does this mean say i want to upgrade to a 15 SSD I can go ahead and send it in for a new basket and recone and wallah I get a 15 SSD sent back to me ?

there really is no minimum per say since any amount of wattage under the RMS won't hurt or damage the sub... Though you need to realize that if you give it under the RMS the subs true ability won't be used... why pay 250 for a sub and only use 150 from it.....? (this is for the other readers you mention upgrading the amps) MAIN point is when you under power a sub most people will certainly end up clipping the amp and sending the sub a clipped signal CAN and WILL eventually lead to damage.... Why is this? Well most end up clipping it cause they expect the sub to put out MORE for the price they paid OR the the sub seems to want more volume... more volume usually leads to clipping where the amp is going beyond it's means... As long as you are aware of the clipping it shouldn't be an issue till you get a more powerful amp

tej and mrray posted what i was going to post to answer all your questions grim *damn forum whores*

I got my md.1d (1,000 watts but was ces rated and tested to put out 1050 watts) for under 500 full warranty Also FYI My cousin is into building his cars up for racing (my other cousin not the car audio fanatic) he went through 4 alternators from EA and eventually lost $600 bucks (he is also a lead mechanic for Acura here in Hawaii so he isn't some newb under the hood)... I told him about Dom and his alternator hasn't failed him yet (Dom owns/makes iraggi alternators).....

Audio Neon instead of the xt series go one up to the merlin or ax series (you can pm if you got any questions).... You can get the md.2d (1500 watts) for close to even under 500 bucks brand new full warranty. It is ces rated and actually been tested to put out a little close to 1800 watts..... For electrical Alternator email Dom at dominick@tds.net let him know the car make and year he will email you back a LIST (from 180 up to 300 amps all direct bolt ons no speciallty bracket needed to be welded on) Dom is great with warranties and the guy actually NO BS will literally talk to you on the phone walking you through the steps to put it in your car.... Kinetik batteries http://stores.ebay.com/Imezak_Power-Cells-...4QQftidZ2QQtZkm That is the CHEAPEST you will find on the net unless you have someone that can get them at cost. I would CERTAINLY upgrade the power wire knuconcepts has some good 1/0 for 1.75 bucks (for daily) if competing then look at their Kolossus (the KLM is Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) is made up of 90% Aluminum and 10% Copper. Consisting of 5145 Strands of CCA... because of this there will be like a .03 resistance or something small like that depending on the run) Box looks solid you probably already know all this chit anyways but i love to type LOL wanna get my ranking to regualr instead of that lingering "newbie"

actually he said SEALED the 6 cubed would be for ported.. Sealed 18 would be around 4 cuft min. If space isn't an issue you could do the 4 18 (more cone area more SPL, Q would also win out on the SQ IMHO) If space is an issue you may want to go the other route... Don't forget that power may also be a contributing factor here..

Hawaiian tell me you own a TL meter and live on Oahu

Well another new amp to consider for the big boys... Denin what do you think the price range will be for this since i notice you are an authorized Us Amps dealer

Yeah i would increase the box size and port area... the BL rec. specs for the enclosure is MIN 5 max 10 so you want ideally 7 Cu-ft (that's right in the middle).. then take the 7 x 15 = 105 square ft of port... so a box that would do well would be 7 cu-ft with 105 sq ft of port area... This is in theory of course.. as for the amp # Mono subwoofer car amplifier # 500W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N) # 700W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 12.0V, 1% THD+N) # 700W x 1 RMS (4ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N) # 1.000W x 1 RMS (2ohm, 14.4V, 1% THD+N) Note that one say 14.4V your electrical is 13v so in theory you probably pushing 800 to the sub.... to get the full 1k you would need to increase your vehicle electric to push 14.4v

you could also increase port volume say up to 100 sq ft.... though seems you want air "spl" out of your sub... I don't want to say that the BL can easily handle 1500... I am certain that 1K is a very conservative rating..... though you need to realize your amp is probably NOT pushing out 1k maybe slightly under. i can't really say unless you let me know what type of electrical upgrades you have... Battery in the rear, HO alternator, big three ??

Box seems good though lot's of people do sub up port facing rear for spl.... I think the sub wants a bit more wattage in my opinion.... i would slap 1500 to it if i were in your shoes.... also any electrical upgrades? Also fosgaholic asked a good question. I think i saw you had like 90 sq ft

Steve your box design may be awesome But i live in hawaii and see half nekked ladies on the beach... LOL Man Steve is there anything related to car audio that your NOT good at... BTW i hope you drop in here more often... you sorta lead the way for many (including myself) to a great product known as Fi..... your experience and talents are most welcome here.... Lots of members have 18" BTL's and they would love to hear some of your expert advice on them....

what you powering it with Grim ? What is your vehicle ?

I think the SSD's will do well with over 400 watts and MAX out at 1K (with flatwind).. I'm giving my SSD 12's 1K each and they haven't grumbled about it in any way (i don't have flatwind but i have the copper coils) I opt to only comment on the SSD since that is the only sub have experience with....

Gotta confess I am reading post and i still read it EFF EYE LOL Oh well just like the Kinetik battery I was saying KIN-NE-TECH instead of KI-NE-TICK

issue ? Edit: What nick said below

No problem Juicy always happy to help....

I thought the bracing was right up against the port like moving the bracing line in your pick up till you hit the turn in the port... If that were the case it may affect tuning but the way you have it should be fine

may look good on paper.. but when implemented wrong all that fancy numbers mean nothing In my honest opinion....

If he wants all the power then get two SSD's and parrallel them to the bxi2006d... Maybe 2 10's if space is an issue. (I hear scott loves his ten SSD and that says a lot when the guy has the pick of ANY sub he wants to machine up) Audio neon can you just switch the speaker wires to the other amp and if the speakers play then your amp is BYE BYE and if they don't play ORDER UP 2 Fi with everything on it

Trolling you-tube came across a video called "my eye just popped out" Nuff said

Ah makes Plenty sense now Mucho thanks